sandpaper and covex

RescueRiley

RescueRiley

Joined
Mar 22, 2006
Messages
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Well my oppinel after alot of use has gotten pretty dull so I laid some 400 than 600 grit on the mousepad and zippidy do dah razor sharp it was so easy I can't believe it.
 
Is this technique applicable to all grinds or is it strictly for use on a convex edge? I have a Frosts Mora that I've used for saltwater fishing and the blade got nicked all to heck. I've ground the edge back down to remove the nicks and need to put an edge on it and I wonder if this might be easier/faster than my Sharpmaker.
 
I use it only for convex, but I dont see why you couldn't. just have to be carful not to use too much pressure, or you end up with a convex.
 
Fonly said:
I use it only for convex, but I dont see why you couldn't. just have to be carful not to use too much pressure, or you end up with a convex.
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Would that be such a bad thing? Would putting a convex edge on a knife not designed for it give you bad results?

Also, which direction to you sharpen with the sandpaper/mousepad technique? I would expect to strop the blade but nothing goes without saying.
 
swedishdwarf said:
Would that be such a bad thing? Would putting a convex edge on a knife not designed for it give you bad results?
It is if you dont want it ;)

Also, which direction to you sharpen with the sandpaper/mousepad technique? I would expect to strop the blade but nothing goes without saying.
yes its more of a stropping technique, I draw the knife away, and using verlly little pressure.
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So, yeah, light pressure, but be thorough.
 
Texas Slim said:
Is this technique applicable to all grinds or is it strictly for use on a convex edge? I have a Frosts Mora that I've used for saltwater fishing and the blade got nicked all to heck. I've ground the edge back down to remove the nicks and need to put an edge on it and I wonder if this might be easier/faster than my Sharpmaker.
Click to expand...
You can use this technique but put the sand paper on a piece of glass or something that's really flat. Also, I've heard that if you wet the paper it helps stick to the glass and not move around.
 
I'm using the convex sharpening technique to gradually change my Frost Moras to convex, so far, so good.
 
Use sandpaper on a mousepad by stropping doesn't give the same result than a classical sharpening (by pushing on a stone). The burr won't be the same, stropping stretches the steel, pushing on a stone compacts the steel. According to the toughness of the steel of the blade you want to sharpen it will make a difference. Get a good result by this way on an Opinel (soft steel) doesn't mean you will get the same result on an harder steel of which burr will be more brittle.

dantzk.
 
swedishdwarf said:
Ok, so what kinds of steel will take a good convex edge?
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All steels can take a good convex edge. All steels can get a good convex grind. I think pushing on a stone is better for strong steels (brittleness of the burr) and stropping is available (but not the best in my opinion) for tough steels. I hope somes acknowledged members will give their opinion about this interesting topic. Keep connected!

dantzk.
 
RescueRiley said:
Well my oppinel after alot of use has gotten pretty dull so I laid some 400 than 600 grit on the mousepad and zippidy do dah razor sharp it was so easy I can't believe it.
Click to expand...
That's the only way I sharpen my Opinels (and I have a bunch of them). Right out of the box, I start with 320 or 400, then 600, 800, 1000, and then the strop loaded with compound. I almost always have either a plain No.8 or Inox (12c27) jardin in my pocket, and they get a lot of use. Usually only a little stropping is required to keep them shaving sharp for quite a while.:thumbup:
 
Any steel, any grind can have a convex "edge". I think there is some confusion between a convex grind and a convex edge. A convex grind is the primary grind. Alot of makers convex the edge on a flat grind. I convex the edges on all my knives no matter what type of grind. Even though the convex grind is my favorite, I do own some hollow grinds and they get their edges convexed. The only grind that doesn't usually gets a convex edge is the scandi. That comes straight down to zero.
Scott
 
Well put, Scott... that summed it up for me. I would rather make my knives with a full convex grind... but I'm fine with a flatgrind w/ convex edge.
Rick

Ps. I've used one of your tuskers.... what a chopper! I also cord wrapped a few of your PSK's... I like those alot, too.
 
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