Sandvik 15n2c

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Wapiti

Joined
Sep 25, 1999
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I recently met a gentleman that runs a local saw shop who has a large supply of wood bandsaw steel.

His shop, amongst other things, builds wood saw blades, so has a lot of left over steel, which he has offered to sell me if I want any of it.
Most of it is about 3/32 thick, some 1/16 thick. I have not looked through his pile enough to see if he has any stuff at 1/8 or thicker. It is all mostly about 5-6’ long and about 4-6” wide.

Here the specs he gave me on the steel:
He gave me a copy of a sheet that lists it as 15n2c by Sandvik
C=.73
Si=.25
Mn=.36
P=.004
Cr=.14
Ni=2.01

It seems pretty close to what most literature commonly refers to as L-6 (and 15n20?), but I wanted to see what folks here could contribute about this steel and its potential for edged tools.

I was not able to get anything of Sandvik’s website, as they appear to no longer sell this.

I thought I might use it for some smaller kitchen knives, maybe even some of my larger machete/bolo type blades.

What temp would you suggest for a start on critical temp?

Any guidance on heat treatment (including tempering temps for specific hardnesses)?

Any thoughts on what else it might be useful for?

Seems like it would be at least good material to mix with a 10 series for Damascus…

I did cut out a few throwing patterns and used them for about a month, and they held up well, with no bending, even at that low hardness.
He said it is currently about RC 45, so I thought I would cut some rough patterns out (with an angle grinder) and put them in the oven to anneal them, and then do the grinding.

Anyway, any thoughts or experiences would be welcome. It is cheap enough it should be a fun material to play around with, etc.
Thanks,
Brome
 
I made many knives from 15N20 years ago, but use it now only in damascus.

Basically it's 1075 with 2%+/- nickle and less Mn.

Not really like L6, but good steel. Actually I like it better than L6.
 
Sounds pretty much just like 15n20 by alloy numbers. You'll find that many alloys range slightly in exact recipe from manufacturer to manufacturer.
 
It's a good steel for damascus because [mixed with L6] the two steels HT about the same and the nickel in 15n20 doesn't etch easily so gives good contrast.
 
Brome,

The analysis you listed is 15N20 and that is what he supposedly has. I have purchased steel from him twice. The first batch I got was something other than 15n. It had little or no nickel and thus no contrast in the damascus. If you are just using it for stock removal it should be fine. He has material up to .09". The second batch I got was fine, it was all marked either sandvik or uddeholm.

So whereabouts near Albany do you live. We sometimes have a little get together here at my shop if you are interested.
 
Thanks for the confirmations on what I “might” have.
Sounds like I should be specific about which pile I get it from if I want to know for sure, or get the stuff that is clearly marked, especially if I want to use it in any Damascus.
Still sounds like a good source for inexpensive “beater” steel.

Can anyone share a starting point for determining the critical temp on this type of steel? I guess I can probably use the magnet test (heat to non-magnetic), but how would I go about doing that with a closed oven (hoping to get one soon).

Thanks, AC, for your experiences with L&R Saw and their steel and the invite. I live just south of Albany about a mile or so out of town.
That is actually the second time you have invited me, and I apologize for kind of failing to follow up on it. I met you at one of the OKCA mini shows (think I see you at every show…); I was eyeing one of your small kitchen knives.
I am mostly a knife tinkerer at this time. Busy life with family/work/homestead these days. It is hard for me to find time to finish knives lately.
But I should take you up on your very kind offer. Salem is just up the road and at least I could watch. Maybe that would help relight the spark and get me motivated again.
So please do let me know.

Brome
 
3/32" is a fantastic thickness for neck knives, folders, and kitchen cutlery.
 
Brome,

Critical temp is the same for most all steel at 1414f. This is the temp at which the transformation begins as you probably know. Austenizing temp or the correct temperature to quench a given steel is usually much higher. Since 15n20 is basically 1075 with a little nickel I would take it to 1525f and give that a shot. Then temper at 400f and see what that gives you. You could start the temper at 375 and bump it up 25f until you get the desired hardness. Good luck, drop me a line sometime and we can get together.
 
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