Saw back Knives (opinions)

Well it does depend on the knife, the thickest part of this blade is the top edge of the teeth on the saw, its flat ground down from there. So the blade doesn't bind when sawing. The teeth are cut at a good angle and bite easily, and its fairly efficient to saw with if you need a flat end.

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I have tested & owned sawbacks. And I really think they look cool.
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This blade is less than 7" long, & I processed this small tree in probably 10 minutes. I have never used a sawback that could do this. As much as I would like them to be, there just not practical to me
 
I only use it if I need a square end, other than that I can chop and process it quicker using the blade. It does cut well though and easily. Much easier than you would think. It is quicker to saw through a larger branch than to chop, less effort too, especially if you hook a lanyard through the top guard and around your left wrist if your right handed. The largest I've sawn through was right at 7 inches thick.
 
I've wondered about this SOG Team Leader. Looks like a larger version of a SAK saw. Not sure why it wouldn't work well.

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It works Very well. That's what a true saw back should be. Jimmy Lyle's may have worked, I have never used one. But most of the sawbacks copied from his version, do not work
 
I only use it if I need a square end, other than that I can chop and process it quicker using the blade. It does cut well though and easily. Much easier than you would think. It is quicker to saw through a larger branch than to chop, less effort too, especially if you hook a lanyard through the top guard and around your left wrist if your right handed. The largest I've sawn through was right at 7 inches thick.
Yeah, you have enough blade there, if you put a little pressure on the tree, o e chop, it's cut. Then I square them off with the blade. Can u post a top view of the saw? Thanks bro
 
Here are a couple different angle of the top

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The front raker teeth clean out the cut as you saw and the teeth are angled higher in the back so it has a good bite.

I have used a Lile to saw with years ago and it was more difficult to use than this Martin, there was less space between the teeth and it tended to clog easier.
 
Here are a couple different angle of the top

11033922_10208119827099886_534721514632940414_n.jpg


11221774_10208119827779903_2428220982161852243_n.jpg


The front raker teeth clean out the cut as you saw and the teeth are angled higher in the back so it has a good bite.

I have used a Lile to saw with years ago and it was more difficult to use than this Martin, there was less space between the teeth and it tended to clog easier.
Those teeth are awesome. I would lobe to try em out. All respects, didn't realize that was a Martin
Here are a couple different angle of the top

11033922_10208119827099886_534721514632940414_n.jpg


11221774_10208119827779903_2428220982161852243_n.jpg


The front raker teeth clean out the cut as you saw and the teeth are angled higher in the back so it has a good bite.

I have used a Lile to saw with years ago and it was more difficult to use than this Martin, there was less space between the teeth and it tended to clog easier.
 
[/COLOR][/B]NOT NECESSARILY, Case in point:
I have a SWISS PIONEER Short Sword made in 1878 and here is the pics. Now I agree the stuff made today IS PURE JUNK, but I'm not going to be the one to spit in the face of our European ancestors MINE and tell them they were stupid. The Pioneers and Artillery units were issued Short Swords of this type for the purpose of building and or chopping out fire lanes or building firing positions, foot bridges etc. Pioneers in the old days did a lot without bellyaching. Like I said the stuff today is gimmick crap but the old school stuff was real. By the way the blade thickness is .220" at the edge of the saw.
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I used to have one of those. The back had a real cross cut saw with a set to the teeth. It really sawed wood.

Was it a good saw? Would I grab it instead of a Diston? Not a chance.

But for what it was, a bayonet-fascine chopper-saw, it was a winner.
 
I don't like saw-backs, but I LOVE... LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE my SOG Hunter Revolver. The saw on it is bad ass and it's a good little knife. I highly recommend them.
They saw very well, withe the SAK type saw. And I like the fact it doesn't interfere with your blade(snagging while dressing game) . I love the fact of utilizing a full tang , to revolve, to avoid the weakness of a folder. I hope to order one soon to do a "Hard Use", Knife test on. SMKW's sales them and a folder for around $30!
 
I would very much like to have a shorter machete with an effective saw on the back.Of course that mostly limits the blade thickness,but it would be handy for me-even better if it were a bowie style machete for more general utility.In the sixties I had a Puma Plainsman folder with a saw blade that did very well cutting a 1/2" 4×8 plywood in half.This 14" or 16" sawback machete should be a good compromise for wilderness and survival.The saw would always be quickly at hand.You could still baton it if necessary.Just notching is not enough.
 
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