Saw-backed knives

M

Mike Roberts

Joined
Nov 28, 1999
Messages
12
I would appreciate recommendations on fixed or folders with a really good (useable) saw cut into the back side of the blade. Are there any out there?

-Mike
 
I personally do not care for this feature, normally they do not work well, and in many blades they create stress points which weaken the blade. Plus there is just somethign about looking down at that sharp edge while I am putting pressure agaisnt the sawback that would give me shivers, sort of the same way an overdraw does to me on a bow.

If you have to get them, I would say a Parrish, or Randall Blade with this feature is about as good as that feature gets.

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Lee

LIfe is too important to be taken seriously. Oscar Wilde

[This message has been edited by MichLee (edited 14 December 1999).]
 
Although I have a couple of knives with this feature -- a CR Aviator & a Camillus 5684mk "Marine Fighter/Utility" -- I would not recommend buying one with the express purpose of using it as a saw. Here's what the Chris Reeve Web site has to say about the saw feature on the Aviator: "The teeth are designed to offer versatility rather than excellence in any one task--they can be used to saw most material, although none perfectly."

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Cheers,

--+Brian+--

I may be goin' to hell in a bucket, Babe, but at least I'm enjoyin' the ride.


 
Deleted.

[This message has been edited by jrf (edited 18 December 1999).]
 
My old 5 inch Camillus USAF survival knife has less of a saw and more of what I would call a forward tooth, grooved ramp. It saved my butt once, because I was able to make a perfect notch all the way around the base of an antler horn, and did the same on a stick, lashed them together, and had a serviceable emergency ice axe. It got me up some icey, slippery areas above the treeline once...

Best,

Brian.

[This message has been edited by Brian Jones (edited 14 December 1999).]
 
I don't find a sawback particularly useful either. If anything, they seem more of an annoyance to deal with or have.
 
JRF

Have you ever, actually, seen the Warrior used as a saw ?
It is a long time since I handled one, but I seem to remember the teeth were similar to those on the Hobbit. As far as I can recall, they are not saw teeth at all. The "hook and shread" use is about all they would be good for ...IMO.

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BrianWE
ICQ #21525343


 
I have had several if the "Survival" type knives. I hate them all (Ok, maybe that's too strong). The only one I still have is the BuckMaster (for my collection).

They just plain don't work worth beans.

I'll tell you what I found that works...many of the folding pruning saws are great! So are the saws that the larger SAKs have.

Like everything else, you can't build something that does everything, as it does nothing well.

At this point I'm of the opinion that I would rather carry a SAK (like the RuckSak) and knife sharpener than a big bowie type. One, your more likely to always have it with you and two, it does many more jobs than a great hunking chunk of steel; well at least in a utilitarian mode of survival.

IMO.

Darren


 
I have had a total of five different sawback knives! The ONLY one that worked well as a saw was really just that! It was a WWI German ENGINEERS bayonet with a 18" blade most of which had good sawteeth on the back.

What I'm getting to is they are generally worthless on a knife, IMHO!!

I got pulled away in mid-post. Here's what else I have to add.

The best saw that I've ever seen in conjunction with a knife is the sawblade on the SAKs. I have a handsaw with a similar tooth design and does it go through EVERYTHING! The SAK sawblade is, of course, not as long but it does a GREAT job on cutting things as well!

Good luck!

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Plainsman
smile.gif

primitiveguy@hotmail.com




[This message has been edited by Plainsman (edited 14 December 1999).]
 
A friend of mine sawed firewood for three days with his SAK when his raft dumped on the upper Skeena River in northern British Columbia a few years ago; figures it helped save his life. It's a handy tool. I've never seen a saw on a fixed blade worth two cents. A collapsible Swede saw is worth carrying; doesn't weigh much and does a good job with little effort.
 
Check out the thread 'FOLDING SAWS' too. Also, there are long threads on 'OPTIMAL SURVIVAL KNIFE' and other similar topics on the general forum. Many homepages also discuss the 'ideal knife' (seems to be a favourite...).

Almost all advise against the sawback. It is worth to read their arguments. Pretty much the same I read above. And I agree with them too.

I have a Schrade Extreme Survival sheath knife that comes with saw back. It is strong and brutally thick and tolerated splitting wood with it quite well. Comes with a sheath with useful pockets for starter, cord, sharpener, small folding knife etc. It is however to heavy (handle heavy) and comes with features that I don't really use. The few times I used the saw it was fine but I would rather keep this knife in my vehicle as a backup than as a primary cutting tool.
If I could chose now, I would take a Fallkniven or Ka-Bar or Cold Steel SRK instead.

With SAK saws I used I was always happy. RuckSack is a good knife.
Most often I use a Gerber folding saw.

Hope it helped,

HM

 
Hate to sound like a broken record, but I dont care for saw teeth on knives either. I havent seen any worth a darn, but as I understand TOPS puts good seviceable teeth on their knives, but havent seen them. They do cause stress risers during heat treating. I carry a folding saw that weighs practically nothing and cuts very well. Gerber makes a great folding saw, and the SAK's have good small saws on them.

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www.simonichknives.com
 
I have seen someone saw with a TOPS knife and it went well.

The teeth are angled back and forth.

But in general I do not favor saw teeth on a knife.

MDP
 
My dad's issue USAF survival knife has saw teeth, which I think were intended to cut sheet metal, _not_ wood, the theory being to cut your way out of a crashed aircraft. This could also explain their presence on the Reeve "Aviator". Using a metal-cutting tool to cut wood may well be disappointing; I'd hate to have to cut firewood with my hacksaw.
 
Just a comment on the Gerber folding saw. I bought one of their earlier ones and it was useless. This is the one where the teeth are rather widespaced and squarish. Don't buy that one. I think they are making a new model now. My favorite is a Sandvik. I have used this folding saw for 'bout everything and I've sawed down some pretty good size trees and lopped off fair size limbs with it. It's a great saw.


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Hoodoo

When you arrive at the fork in the road, take it.
Yogi Berra
 
The teeth on a Randall Made knife (model #18 or any other) were designed for light sheet metal--essentially to cut your way out of a downed helecopter or fixed wing. They were not designed for wood and those trying to use them for such are usually disappointed.

I am not in favor of saw teeth on a knife spine. I do like the SAK saw and the saw feature on the SOG PowerPlier. I also have the earlier Gerber sport saw spoken of above, but I really like it. The teeth are more like a chain saw than a hand saw and cut on the draw stroke. It works well in splitting the pelvis or sternum on your elk.

Bruce Woodbury
 
Bruce,

I think if all you are going to cut through is the pelvic girdle, then the old sytle Gerber is ok. But one bowhunting season I practically wore myself out using that little saw to clear shooting lanes. My Sandvik is ten times the cutting machine than the old style Gerber. Just depends on what you want to cut.


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Hoodoo

When you arrive at the fork in the road, take it.
Yogi Berra
 
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