saw blade/rookie knife questions

Joined
Mar 23, 2015
Messages
5
So I was working on my sawblade cleaver some more today and had a few questions.
First, I attempted to drill some holes (with a metal bit, low speed and lubricant) and hardly scratched the surface. Obviously, I need to anneal the metal to be able to drill it, then afterwards; heat treat and temper? Correct?

Second, I quickly fashioned a Gough inspired filing jig and attempted to but an edge on this raw, saw blade steel (un-annealed), and kept finding that when puting the finishing strokes with the file, I was getting a burr on the opposite edge of the file. I finally over came this by taking a few passes with sandpaper to get rid of the burr. I would assume I am getting this burr because this is very much less than ideal steel to be making a knife with?

Third, Im begining to think that I should call it quits with this project and move on to working with some proper steel that I plan on purchasing (most likely from amazon) as Im begining to think that the anealling, heat treating and tempering Im assuming I need to do to finish this blade is not worth my time. I originally started this project to be sure I wanted to continue the hobby and to work out any kinks with learning the stock removal method but I think Ive got the basics, and moving on to proper steel would not be a waste of time at this point.

Fourth, as stated, I am using a gough style jig, my bevels on either side are of uneven height, and I would assume that this is due to not taking care to keep the eyebolt height adjustment consistent between sides. But my question is, on the side where I have a larger bevel, it is of uneven height and is almost in an "s" shape. Why is this happening? I assume it is becuase I am appplying uneven pressure when making a pass with the file? Applying more pressure at the middle of the cleaver than at either edge? or would it be becuase I dont have the cleaver centered with the eyebolt?

thanks for any help, sorry for clogging up the thread.

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Sebastes, Fish much?? I like your name. Anyhow, The steel you are using is a bit thin for the style of blade you are making. If you wanted to make a Chinese style cleave it would work a bit better. The evenness of the bevels will take practice. Even a jig cannot make everything perfect. If you want to buy known steel (I recommend it highly) check out Aldo Bruno the New Jersey Steel Baron at http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/ or Kelly Kupples at (email only) octihunter@charter dot net . They are both great to deal with and have fair prices. As Rat pointed out you need to radius any inside corners to prevent stress risers on heat treat.

BTW I lived in Ferndale/Fortuna for 22 years. Moved to Oregon in 2007. Best thing I ever did.
 
Thank you guys for the tips. Learn something new everyday.

I fish a bit too much, if thats even possible. While Ive only lived here for a bit over 6 years, its definitely changing quite a bit from when I first moved here. Oregon seems appealing, I need to check out that area more. thanks for the steel suppliers info, I will look into them,
 
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