Scored a sawmill blade but not sure what kind of steel it is.started by cutting out rough blank with plasma.the aneal in a fire pit and let it cool slowly as the fire went out.drilled the pin holes with no problem after annealing where as I couldn't drill before so pretty confident that the annealing worked.shaped an ground the blade to 220 where I was happy.heat treated to an non metallic state and quenched.tempered in oven at 400 for 2 hrs.finished polished and now the problem.it won't take an edge.what did I do wrong
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saw mill blade
- Thread starter paintman
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"but not sure what kind of steel it is".
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- Nov 27, 2011
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Yep. Not knowing the steel type means not knowing how to H.T. properly.
You could make an educated guess and be right, or you could end up with a knife that won't hold an edge.
Sucks dude.
Avoid future problems like this and get some 1084 from Aldo.
http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/
You could make an educated guess and be right, or you could end up with a knife that won't hold an edge.
Sucks dude.
Avoid future problems like this and get some 1084 from Aldo.
http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/
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- Oct 3, 2002
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- 12,297
Old saw blade, newer? Carbide tipped? Could be good steel, or low carbon.
What quench, oil or water?
Wont take an edge? Is that wont get sharp, or wont hold an edge?
Re heat treat, heat a bit passed non-magnetic. Quench in 130f canola oil.
Keep experimenting and/or get some 1084.
That better Stacy?
What quench, oil or water?
Wont take an edge? Is that wont get sharp, or wont hold an edge?
Re heat treat, heat a bit passed non-magnetic. Quench in 130f canola oil.
Keep experimenting and/or get some 1084.
That better Stacy?
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Lets see pichers
Use photobucket or something similar
Use photobucket or something similar
If you quenched in water and it didn't crack, and it won't hold an edge, I'm guessing low carbon.
You said "heat treated to a non metallic state." I'm assuming you meant non magnetic. If it were 8670 or something like that, a soak at a bit past nonmag would be better.
Don't have much to make an educated guess on, but 1084 is better than guess work.
You said "heat treated to a non metallic state." I'm assuming you meant non magnetic. If it were 8670 or something like that, a soak at a bit past nonmag would be better.
Don't have much to make an educated guess on, but 1084 is better than guess work.
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- Oct 3, 2002
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- 12,297
Water is a bit harsh for saw blade steel.
Not being able to get it sharp is not a good judge of the steel or the heat treat...
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Too many variables.
If, and only if, that steel was even good enough to make a decent knife out of, I would soak it for a bit at temp.
I assume you don't have a controlled way of H.T. this steel and are just doing it by eye?
You could do like Don said and experiment a bit. It can't hurt, the knifes already made.
Take notice of the color of the steel at non magnetic, then let it get a bit hotter than that and try to keep that temp. for 15 min. then quench in brine (salt water), then test with a file. if the file doesn't bite then temper.
Honestly, if that doesn't work, I'd scrap it and get some 1084.
If, and only if, that steel was even good enough to make a decent knife out of, I would soak it for a bit at temp.
I assume you don't have a controlled way of H.T. this steel and are just doing it by eye?
You could do like Don said and experiment a bit. It can't hurt, the knifes already made.
Take notice of the color of the steel at non magnetic, then let it get a bit hotter than that and try to keep that temp. for 15 min. then quench in brine (salt water), then test with a file. if the file doesn't bite then temper.
Honestly, if that doesn't work, I'd scrap it and get some 1084.