sawmill blade?

MarkJeffrey

MarkJeffrey

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Nov 7, 2013
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I acquired a large circular saw mill blade that I was told is from the 50's, I'd like to make a couple of cleavers out of it. I'm just wondering what my process should be to start.. I have a plasma cutter, can I cut them out with that leaving some extra meat around my finished shape, then anneal them? Also wondering what the annealing temp would be, just above critical? Thanks :thumbup:




*edited for spelling..
 
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I did a lot of reading on whatever I could find on sawmill blades for knives, gathering the steel is most likely L-6 or 15n20? I do have 01 stock to make knives with that I've used on my first 8.. I just like old stuff and want to try a few out of this blade. I still cant find any info on how to go about working it. Anyone?
 
It likely is L6. I can get the specs for you or you can looks them up. It is very similar to todays 8670, which is what I use in my knives, as far as the cleavers it makes for an excellent chopper material. Cutting out with the plasma is going to give a 1/8 to 1/4 Line of brittleness and if you just heat it up to critical and allow it to cool to room temp you should be good for working it at that point. The Rockwell C hardness is kind of tricky for those it depended heavily on its use, but typically was in the 40-46 range if i remember correctly. David Boyes book Step by step knifemaking goes into detail about heat treating L6. I hope the info is of help.
 
If it is that old and doesn't have carbide tipped teeth or replaceable teeth, then my guess is that it would be something similar to 1080.

I have made several knives from them over the years with very good results. I only used them because I had them, but heat treated them as if they were new steel.

Robert
 
I seriously doubt that it is L-6 or 15N20. You see that on the internet all the time, but I haven't known anyone who had one tested find it to be true. Robert's guess is probably closer.
Anyone saying that it is this or that with nothing but "an old saw blade" as description is just guessing.

The best thing to do with a big saw blade that will make hundreds of knives is invest $50 and get a coupon (2" piece) tested. then you will know EXACTLY what it is and how to HT it.
 
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I made this somewhere around 2010. Its from a large "OLD" sawmill blade. I have used this thing over and over and over, and it holds an edge like crazy.

I have literally only sharpened it twice since I made it. Sometimes you get lucky, and other times you don't.

No need to preach to the choir about using known steels. I agree, but sometimes, just sometimes, you have got to try that mystery steel stuff.

Robert
SawmillCamp.jpg
 
Thanks for the replies fellas

Robert that's an amazing kiife, thanks for sharing!

I'll check a few places here in town to see what I can find out about getting the steel tested maybe, or I'll heat treat a simple blade and run it through some use. Oh, and the saw blade doesn't have teeth other than the ones shaped into the bade, so its not a core. I'm going to cut it up this weekend and see what I can do,. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again!
 
Have it tested, or just do some testing yourself.
I used up a couple of those sawmill blades (more likely buzz saw blades) when I was learning the basics of grinding, and people still use quite a few of them daily, and they're favorite knives (even though I know what I'm making now is worlds better). Good enough for daily use in commercial kitchens alongside Victorinox, etc. *shrug*
 
I aquired a 52", 3/16" thick mill blade some time ago. Had it tested, came back as 15n20. [or very close]
Basicly 1075 w/ nickle & chromium.
 
We have used a bunch over the years..I think we have 5 or 6 setting by the shop now..All except one Ive gotten over the years have been something like 1080 with a pinch of nickel..The oddball is something like 8670..It has Moly in it..Ive never seen a spec test come out as real L6..
 
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