Sawzall Sanding Machine

Now that seems a bit brilliant! Thanks Natlek
Couldn't you just switch to flat for the tip and plunge? Not that I do plunges, but...
 
I have been using a thin piece of pliable leather in between my sanding bar and the sand paper. It adds a little bit of cushion and really helps the sandpaper get into every little nook and cranny. I only really use it with full flat grinds so that it doesn’t mush over onto the flats. I have the front of the sanding bar with a rounded wedge bevel that can really into the plunge too. Using the thin leather keeps the sandpaper rigid enough to get deep into places like that and not just mush over the plunge.
 
Natlek said:
Why only chef knives must be plungeless ? What s wrong with this one "plungeless" :)
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What's wrong with it? NOTHING. That's absolutely beautiful. (bow)
 
AndrewC said:
What's wrong with it? NOTHING. That's absolutely beautiful. (bow)
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Thank you very much , Andrew .I m glad that you like what I done . It was epic battle ...file jig .....disk sander ......flat granit plate ....file jig....disk ...etc :( But at the end I win :) I don t think that I will repeat this ........ever
What surprise me is total weight of knife , only 185 grams .It is 5 mm on spine and total length 22.5cm.
 
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Natlek said:
I suggest to try this way............. take something round.....wood , steel or plastic tube..... and put some rubber hose on it....hand sanding contact wheel ;) When I try that I start to like hand sanding again :) It is much faster,very much faster then with block because the surface of the paper on contact with the steel is small . And utilization ..... ? ...... of paper is almost 100 % .The problem is only around the plunge line an the tip, you need to be careful to not rounded ....
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I like your idea! I've always just used a 9" long piece of 2x2 block that I squared up good and sharp on 1 side and rounded the rest. Easy enough to hold the paper with thunvs and it keeps the edges straight. Won't cramp my hands up either.
Your idea reminds me that I bought a 1" diameter, 3" long sleeveless sanding spindle! Uses and sandpaper. Throw that baby in my drill press and go to town with the lengthwise grinds!
 
Eighty6ed said:
I like your idea! I've always just used a 9" long piece of 2x2 block that I squared up good and sharp on 1 side and rounded the rest. Easy enough to hold the paper with thunvs and it keeps the edges straight. Won't cramp my hands up either.
Your idea reminds me that I bought a 1" diameter, 3" long sleeveless sanding spindle! Uses and sandpaper. Throw that baby in my drill press and go to town with the lengthwise grinds!
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You know what is best about this ? Sand paper you tossed as worn when you work with block ...............WORKS like new one with this tool ,contact surface is small ,so........ Plus you USE almost all length of paper ...
 
Natlek said:
I suggest to try this way............. take something round.....wood , steel or plastic tube..... and put some rubber hose on it....hand sanding contact wheel ;) When I try that I start to like hand sanding again :) It is much faster,very much faster then with block because the surface of the paper on contact with the steel is small . And utilization ..... ? ...... of paper is almost 100 % .The problem is only around the plunge line an the tip, you need to be careful to not rounded ....
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OK, Natlek, I finally just tried this -- stole the rubber roller off my glue bottle. WOW. Major difference vs. my 1/4-sheet sanding blocks. I still like those for taking a big area down, too, but there's a difference in terms of how they work -- and, yes, the utilization of ALL the paper. :-) NICE tip - thanks!
 
ten-six said:
Waaaaaait a minute....I've been hand sanding blades and could've used my random orbit sander?!?!? What is WRONG with me?!?!?!?

Any advice before I proceed?
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Funny - I just started trying that too, yesterday. Works pretty darn well, at least to get things from a belt grind to get scratches out and to an almost perfect satin finish. I still wanted to do a few minutes of one-way strokes with the paper-on-rubber-roller, and then the ScotchBrite maroon then green-brown for my final satin, but the RO did the number on the scratches I still had from 120-180 grit. I did back up on the grit a bit when switching to the RO - that always seems necessary when switching grinding direction or mode, for some reason....
 
ten-six said:
Waaaaaait a minute....I've been hand sanding blades and could've used my random orbit sander?!?!? What is WRONG with me?!?!?!?

Any advice before I proceed?
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My biggest concern would be the rubber pad rolling over edges you don't want rolled over without some care.
 
ten-six said:
I'm having that problem handsanding.
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The orbital could make it worse. The trick by hand is to use a flat block with radiused edges that allow you to tightly pinch the paper around it, without slack, and to keep it on the surface you want to sand.

AlaskanHunter said:
I wonder if you could replace the pad with a thin slab of G10 or micarta/mycarta to help with that?
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Maybe, it occurred to me, I just don't know if it would vibrate more and be obnoxious.


Overall I'm now in the camp of hand sanding should be hard and should suck because hating it motivates you to be a better grinder. :D It had that effect on me anyway. Now I'm comfortable grinding up to 800 grit, and sanding from 400 or 600 by hand in maybe a 10th of the time I was spending to do it a year ago. Essentially going from handsanding as a matter of fact to fix my poor grinds to now handsanding just when that finish is desired.
 
kuraki said:
The orbital could make it worse. The trick by hand is to use a flat block with radiused edges that allow you to tightly pinch the paper around it, without slack, and to keep it on the surface you want to sand.
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I agree in principle - but it just so happens that for the kind of knives I'm making it's a happy coincidence that that (i.e. edge 'rollover') doesn't matter. I'm flat-grinding chefs' knives, so want a nice flat surface - neither hollow-grind nor convex. But: I want to break the corners on the spine later anyhow - I can't understand how Wusthof and Henckels don't get huge complaints from cooks who actually hold a knife properly (i.e. pinch grip) and end up with blisters from their fat sharp corners! So a bit of rollover while I'm flat-sanding is not only just fine, but actually a bit of a bonus.

I'm also pretty thoughtful about workholding: I use a well-aged 2x4 clamped at a bit of a downward slant in my vise, and use a Jorgensen to clamp the blade tang down, and make sure the blade's located with the edge where I want it, usually right along the edge of the 2x4, so that the sanding - whether orbital or hand-pad or hand-rubber-roll - goes where I want it. As it turns out, the RO still leaves things pretty flat anyhow - doesn't round off the spine much at all; I'd almost rather it did round it off more :).
 
kuraki said:
That's cool, just pointing it out.
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One other thought on the rounding-over issue - and this applies to other hand-sanding methods too! - use a "buddy-scrap". (I had to make up a term on the fly... :-) That is, I clamp another scrap of the same thickness steel* along the spine - this is where my free-floating 2x4 sanding-'horse' is really handy for clamping from all sides. That way, whether it's an RO sander, my 2" foam-backed velcro sanding discs chucked in a drill, or good-ol'-elbow-greased hand-sanding-stick - I'm far less likely to round over the spine, at least until I want to. This could also be really helpful when you're doing a hollow-grind but need a flat area first along the spine, and want to keep both the spine-edge and the transition to the hollow-grind area crisp.

When cutting out blanks on my bandsaw, I save any long-ish pieces or anything over a few sq.in. (and try to remember to scribble steel-type and thickness w/ a sharpie). So I often have the matching 'negative' piece from along the back of the blade, or another piece that'll do. This isn't as helpful if you've ground down to a significantly thinner spine than the original blank steel was, but I tend to make knives out of just about the right thickness stock, so I'm usually within not-too-many thou. And with a full-flat grind, I can space the scrap out the right amount to still 'protect' the edge.

Hope that all makes sense. :-) Cheers, Andrew
 
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