Scale found on old 300 series Delrin

Ok, first here is photo of original knife (301) fresh out of the safe drawer. I can swear on the good book that it has not been touched since then. Looks to me like it held up in a decent manner. Looks like the oil has dried in the pivot zones....

Old301photo.jpg


Second, Ok I appreciate the support for the 'position' of moderator, but lets go on down the road. I get some buttons and whistles you guys don't have even at the gold level, but you have to know what they are for......maybe I will someday. I have asked Knarfeng to drop by often and check things, he enjoys a good Buck 300, himself. I think for anyone who is a good moderator what someone said is true, and I quote "Congratulations, I am sorry" is the correct reply. I can tell you I would not do this if the Buck forum was not a really decent place to communicate.
Problems arise when folks use bad language, act like they know everything and everything they do and say is correct and when money gets involved. You will never hear me be Moderator if none of that bad stuff creeps in our Buck world. Even writing this I will have to slap my own hand for changing the direction of a thread. So I have one negative score.........Our world here is all about respect and kindness. You guys do a pretty good job in showing both....300
 
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Well I figured I'd try the easy route and put it in my pocket and let it go thru the wash/dryer. Didn't phase it, so now I'll have to give it a different shot.
 
All,
I have had good success using "Armorall" to change the gray look back to black on the 300 series black sawcut inlays. I just spray on a light coating of Armorall on each side and allow it to soak in for a day or so. It seems to penetrate and refresh the plastic. On one particularly bad knife, I did have to repeat the procedure to obtain the result I desired. I recall that one took a few days to get the deep, glossy black look.
Larry
 
Old thread but this is relevant. If you're into instant gratifacation, simply wipe the knife down (you may have to scrub a little to get all the way down into the jigging) with machine oil/household oil such as 3-in-One oil, Gulf Household Oil, Mill-Rose All Purpose Lubricant, etc, etc, then wipe off excess with a dry rag. I've never used Mineral Oil as per 300Bucks but it appears that works as well.

Works first time, every time. Works fine, lasts a long time. No harm, no foul, it's quick and easy peasy lemon squeezy.
 
Craig,
I'd be interested to know it the condition has returned now that its been 8 or 9 months.
 
Will have to dig it out for photo. It is a sheep among a flock.

I think it is on the Camillus Collectors forum (of BF) that I saw someone explain 'off-gassing' of the delrin that makes the white residue. I think I saved it will look for that also in case someone has not read that. It will give us the air of sounding like scientists. Or just make sure you read Knarfengs post on page one 300



Ok Fritz, Here is your fresh photo ( 5 years later), unrubbed, unsprayed, unoiled fresh from the gun safe tray. I should have put a couple along side that were showing white. I have two levels of maintenance, show knives and others. Others don't get much attention. You can tell by the fact this one still has dried oil in the joints. Maybe just a very slight haze or not. Might just be camera/light angle.

300 again
 
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Also Detail Doctor instant restorer works well too. Label says it contains linseed oil. Same stuff used on plastic car headlights and can be found cheap at places like Walgreens.
 
I had a similar problem with the brown Delrin scales on a ~50 year old Ulster camper/scout knife. I tried the wash-it-away trick; didn't work.

Then I rubbed mineral oil into the scales, and did it again a couple of days later. Problem solved.

It might have been solved with one application if I'd been generous enough with the oil and let it sit.
 
I've been fortunate that my old 300's have never done that.But mine are just a handful.
 
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