Scale Glue up Advice.

KnuckleDownKnives

KnuckleDownKnives

Time to make the doughnuts..
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Feb 12, 2015
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Ok so I know this has been covered 1000+ times, but my googlefoo is in bad shape today. I'm going to be doing my first knife with mutli part scales from composite materials.

How does this process look, and a couple questions.

  1. What type of CA glue do I need for gluing G10 liners to G10 scales and carbon fiber bolsters? Will also have a G10 spacer between the G10 Scale and carbon fiber bolster.
  2. Do I need to glue the bolster, spacer and scale together, let it cure then flatten and glue the liner, or glue the entire package in one go? It seems 2 steps would be easier as there are less factors in each step to get right.
  3. Drill scales to fit knife ensuring perfect line of each side.
  4. Rough shape.
  5. Finish front side of scales.
  6. Epoxy and pin to knife. (been using Bob Smiths slow cure 30 min epoxy)
  7. Finish.
thanks...
 
I'd go with one of the Bob Smith CA glues myself. I buy it relabeled at a local tool store. Medium was recommended to me for attaching G10.
Surprisingly strong stuff. I've tried using it to temporarily hold something before, and just a bit too much means I'm busting it to pieces rather than taking it apart
 
1. I like using medium gap filling. Not quite gel, not runny.
2. This I do 2 steps as you describe.
3-7 yep.

After the scales and liners and bolsters are glued up I like to square them up to the same on all 4 sides so the liners/spacers/bolsters all line up in relation to the exterior edges. Just makes it easier when drilling holes to get everything lined back up again.
 
I drill my bolsters to match the forward tang holes then square up the back of the bolster to ensure they are the same on both sides of the tang. I do a crazy pin step so that my spacer bolster and back handle are held together with(2) 1/16" pins this will ensure the spacer can't pop out. I drill the spacer holes and loosely fit to the bolster and drill bolster. I then fit the spacer loosely to the handle and drill those holes you don't need much depth but when you glue it up the parts won't shift around when you apply pressure. Once they are cured I flatten the bottom and CA them to the Liners. Now you can drill the bolster hole through the liner for both sides. this will ensure the front of both bolsters are the same and the joint for the spacer and handle should be aligned for both sides and once you are happy with alignment you can clamp one side drill all the holes for your pins then do the same for the other side. The alignment will be set by the front bolster hole.
 
Solid advice here, I use the glue Kuraki recommends and really the same method as Busto.
 
Sweet!! Thanks guys.. Looks like I'll go ahead and order the blue as well just to have some around.

I'm really excited out this knife. It's coming together nicely so far.

The bolsters are going to be red shred carbon fiber, red .060 liners and spacers and OD green G10 scales and black CF 1/8" pins with a brass mosaic 1/4" pin.

IMG_0550.JPG
 
I like all the Bob Smith products and keep them in stock I don't like jumping from one product to another. I've tried other products with not such great results and don't want issues once a knife is out the door!

That Skull Crusher looks like it might play hell with the rib cage? I do like the design overall...:cool:
 
There is also an accelerator for CA glues in a spray type bottle.
I found that parts will shift sometimes (especially multiple small parts) so I line up my parts, and hit it with a quick spray.
The glue sets in literally 2 seconds.

It's another helpful tool to have.
 
If you buy the big bottles, I'd recommend filling up a tiny bottle to keep on the bench to use, and keep the big bottle in your freezer. The shelf life is probably 10x longer that way
 
I use Maxi cure, Insta cure, Un cure and Insta Set.

That covers a lot of things. The Insta Set and Un cure are life savers at times
 
AVigil said:
I use Maxi cure, Insta cure, Un cure and Insta Set.

That covers a lot of things. The Insta Set and Un cure are life savers at times
Click to expand...

Un-Cure = acetone
Those plastic chemistry pipettes are invaluable with acetone application, and cost a couple bucks per hundred


s-l225.webp
 
Zombie411 said:
Un-Cure = acetone
Those plastic chemistry pipettes are invaluable with acetone application, and cost a couple bucks per hundred


s-l225.webp
Click to expand...


It has a higher visosity, does not smell or evaporate like acetone. Once you apply it stays put and does not run all over the place. Acetone runs and evaporates to quickly to break down bigger deposits of CA glue.
 
I'll give you that sir. :thumbsup:
I just use what I am used to working with, and a gallon of acetone is around 20 bucks here.
Plus the evaporation is a benefit to me. Once the adhesive is removed, the acetone is an excellent cleaner that leaves almost zero residue. At least the better brands do not.

I've tried many products over the years in work, and hobby applications, and I find acetone work well for me.
Just another option...
 
Oh I use acetone, it is $13 a gallon here.

But for CA I use Un Cure, it also does not eat away nylon liner material like acetone does.
 
Un Cure is very handy stuff!!!
 
Just a quick correction with no offense meant...
https://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance

The Cole Palmer site has a point, and click compatibility program.

"Use dropdowns below to select a chemical, and then a combination material."
1. CHEMICAL

2. MATERIAL


CHEMICAL SELECTED : Acetone

MATERIAL COMPATIBILITY
Nylon A - Excellent

That site is worth bookmarking as I refer to it constantly.
There are plastics that will dissolve in acetone or at the very least ruin the finish.
That sites chart can help avoid many costly accidents.

However... I will give the Un-Cure a try solely because I am always trying to learn anything I can.
 
Zombie411 said:
Just a quick correction with no offense meant...
https://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance

The Cole Palmer site has a point, and click compatibility program.

"Use dropdowns below to select a chemical, and then a combination material."
1. CHEMICAL

2. MATERIAL


CHEMICAL SELECTED : Acetone

MATERIAL COMPATIBILITY
Nylon A - Excellent

That site is worth bookmarking as I refer to it constantly.
There are plastics that will dissolve in acetone or at the very least ruin the finish.
That sites chart can help avoid many costly accidents.

However... I will give the Un-Cure a try solely because I am always trying to learn anything I can.
Click to expand...

Oh, my mistake I meant Vinyl.

You use acetone it will take the start dissolving the liner
 
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