Recommendation? Scales coming off help

Question, looking at your picture again, what is that liner material?
 
AVigil said:
Question, looking at your picture again, what is that liner material?
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I don't know precisely what the spacer material is. I bought it from Canadian knifemaker. It appears to be a very dense paper. Some sort of fibrous product.

Whatever it is, I like it and am going to pick up some more
 
canuck cutler said:
I don't know precisely what the spacer material is. I bought it from Canadian knifemaker. It appears to be a very dense paper. Some sort of fibrous product.

Whatever it is, I like it and am going to pick up some more
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Ok, because if it were the nylon liner that stuff has to be sanded down and will only adhere with super glue.
 
I live in Canada and have been using G Flex epoxy. Seems to work really well and if you look it up on line you can get ti all over theplace.
 
AVigil said:
The key to successful scale fit is make sure the scale, liners and knife are DEAD FLAT. And rough with 50 grit and do not contaminate the surfaces.
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I bet these weren't dead flat, and then combined with too much clamping force cause the scales to warp a little so that there wasn't any epoxy where the paper can slide in.

Also, the scales look like natural maple to me, so if the wood moved, that could potentially caused the gap too.
 
Gluing Handles on Your Knives:

You will notice that there is NO epoxy for sale on my website. www.rwwilsonknives.com That is because I use fiberglass instead. Let me give you a few tips on gluing:

Go to any auto body shop and purchase FIBERGLASS RESIN. Fiberglass dries VERY hard and sticks very well, as any of you who have been in my shop and have seen me working with it knows. It is very thin and it must be thickened, however. To accomplish this, just add some regular baby powder. It can also be dyed to any color(s) you like. It dries VERY hard and it will not wash when polishing like epoxy tends to do.
 
I had something simular happen to me.
My problem was that I cleaned off the squized out epoxy with acetone.
The liner sucked itself full with acetone and prevented the epoxy adhering.
With the liner you used this might have happened.

Don't touch the epoxy joint with acetone. Clean up to the joint but not the joint itself
 
rw1129 said:
Gluing Handles on Your Knives:

You will notice that there is NO epoxy for sale on my website. www.rwwilsonknives.com That is because I use fiberglass instead. Let me give you a few tips on gluing:

Go to any auto body shop and purchase FIBERGLASS RESIN. Fiberglass dries VERY hard and sticks very well, as any of you who have been in my shop and have seen me working with it knows. It is very thin and it must be thickened, however. To accomplish this, just add some regular baby powder. It can also be dyed to any color(s) you like. It dries VERY hard and it will not wash when polishing like epoxy tends to do.
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Well , thank you for proving me that I know nothing . . . . :) I use that thing all my life and I never thought to use for gluing wood on metal .And it s probably twenty times cheaper then epoxy :thumbsup:
 
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Wood scales; Are they fully seasoned? Some times non-stabilized or treated wood will absorb moister from your glues or even the air, warp/shrink/expand/crack/ect.

Also make sure you are scratching the surfaces with low grit sand paper and cleaning for oils prior to glue-up.
 
rw1129 said:
Gluing Handles on Your Knives:

You will notice that there is NO epoxy for sale on my website. www.rwwilsonknives.com That is because I use fiberglass instead. Let me give you a few tips on gluing:

Go to any auto body shop and purchase FIBERGLASS RESIN. Fiberglass dries VERY hard and sticks very well, as any of you who have been in my shop and have seen me working with it knows. It is very thin and it must be thickened, however. To accomplish this, just add some regular baby powder. It can also be dyed to any color(s) you like. It dries VERY hard and it will not wash when polishing like epoxy tends to do.
Click to expand...

Now that is a interesting idea..
 
rw1129 said:
Gluing Handles on Your Knives:

You will notice that there is NO epoxy for sale on my website. www.rwwilsonknives.com That is because I use fiberglass instead. Let me give you a few tips on gluing:

Go to any auto body shop and purchase FIBERGLASS RESIN. Fiberglass dries VERY hard and sticks very well, as any of you who have been in my shop and have seen me working with it knows. It is very thin and it must be thickened, however. To accomplish this, just add some regular baby powder. It can also be dyed to any color(s) you like. It dries VERY hard and it will not wash when polishing like epoxy tends to do.
Click to expand...


Hey Ron,
I know what you are trying to say, but you are slightly off in the wording.
Fiberglass resin is a epoxy resin. The glass cloth used with it is the fiberglass ... not the resin.

Epoxy glues are not quite the same as the epoxy resins used in fiberglassing boats. Almost all epoxy glues have a filler and other things in them.

The West System and System-Three epoxy resins are superb - which was what I think you were getting at.
 
Wait a minute ...........Fiberglas resin is Polyester resin , right ? That's what they use in auto body work ?
 
Both can be used for it. Polyester resin is more common for autobody and most general work. Epoxy is sometimes used for more critical fibreglass work such as certian marine applications.

I've used west systems epoxy resin before with their fillers, and it's great stuff. I mostly use e120hp now, but I still keep west systems around for times I want a thinner epoxy.

I have a jug of polyester fibreglass resin, and I can't say I've ever thought of using it for attaching scales.
I tried home made "micarta" with it, and after about two sheets decided I was much better off just buying real micarta.
 
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