SCALES for SKeleton Wardens

Yes, it's been done. My advice to you would be to find an up and coming smith and commission him to do the work.
 
Thanks Because i asked Busse to do it in there custom shop,sent a Email to Garth if the could have snakeskin scale installed on all the Muddy Wardens i got last weekend he replied to my email and said it could not be done.
 
anyone have any suggestions of a custom knifemaker who would do this work i really wanted snakeskin on them i thought a custom shop with a full machine shop could do this LOL Muddy Warden with snakeskin would be really nice
 
DE OPPRESSO LIBER said:
Thanks Because i asked Busse to do it in there custom shop,sent a Email to Garth if the could have snakeskin scale installed on all the Muddy Wardens i got last weekend he replied to my email and said it could not be done.
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You could try Justin Gingrich of Ranger Knives, he's done a few different Busse's for me in the past and is very reasonable.
 
DE OPPRESSO LIBER said:
Thanks Because i asked Busse to do it in there custom shop,sent a Email to Garth if the could have snakeskin scale installed on all the Muddy Wardens i got last weekend he replied to my email and said it could not be done.
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The reason for this, and what will make it hard for anyone to do it, is that they have 2 large holes in them. This gives them the skelitized look. There is no place to properly install handles fastners. This meanes either the holes need to be filled and drilled prior to fitting handles or the handles need to be custom machined and fitted to the holes. Either way its alot of work.
 
Micky said:
The reason for this, and what will make it hard for anyone to do it, is that they have 2 large holes in them. This gives them the skelitized look. There is no place to properly install handles fastners. This meanes either the holes need to be filled and drilled prior to fitting handles or the handles need to be custom machined and fitted to the holes. Either way its alot of work.
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This is unfortunately probably true but you could ask him anyway.
 
Micky said:
The reason for this, and what will make it hard for anyone to do it, is that they have 2 large holes in them. This gives them the skelitized look. There is no place to properly install handles fastners. This meanes either the holes need to be filled and drilled prior to fitting handles or the handles need to be custom machined and fitted to the holes. Either way its alot of work.
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Seems like the logical approach to that problem would be to install AL inlays in the skeletonized portions of the handle, and then drill them for scales. What might make more sense though, would be to obtain an SAR and send it in for a muddy coating.
 
OR you could just strip the coating, and just use a heavy duty epoxy!
(you might want to rough up the handle first with a high grit sandpaper first)
It might not last forever, but it will probably outlast you!
Seriously, this is a pretty easy at home project. I recommend just doing it yourself!
If it was a bigger knife, you'd probably need pins, but I just don't see that much torque being put on the handle of the GWs.
 
I would second Bravado's recommendation of Justin Gingrich. You can find a lot of info about Ranger knives over on the other knife forum.

You might also try David Wesner of Kelsey Creek Knife Works. I don't know that he would do "scales only" but I had him make an amazing A2 chopper for me at a very reasonable price.

Bill Siegle would also be one to check.

Best of luck!
 
I plan to do that when I get mine. Knife supply stores have the liquid inlay sets that gets really hard and can be drilled and sanded. Inlay that in the handle voids and you have material to drill for pins. its should be permanent as the whole handle will hold the scales. i would recommend making the inlay a bit thinner than the handles so the scales are pressed on the metal portion but secured on the inlays! I did that on my Becker necker and works perfect!
 
Bravado said:
You could try Justin Gingrich of Ranger Knives, he's done a few different Busse's for me in the past and is very reasonable.
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This was my suggestion too. I'm about to send Justin an old Blackjack Becker Brute and let him do some scale magic on it.
 
Walking Man said:
OR you could just strip the coating, and just use a heavy duty epoxy!
(you might want to rough up the handle first with a high grit sandpaper first)
It might not last forever, but it will probably outlast you!
Seriously, this is a pretty easy at home project. I recommend just doing it yourself!
If it was a bigger knife, you'd probably need pins, but I just don't see that much torque being put on the handle of the GWs.
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This is exactly what I have planned. In fact, I stripped one of mine mine just today, and it seems plenty rough enough for a good bond.

Randucci stripped one right after they were first released, don't know what he did with it after that.
 
resinguy said:
This is exactly what I have planned. In fact, I stripped one of mine mine just today, and it seems plenty rough enough for a good bond.

Randucci stripped one right after they were first released, don't know what he did with it after that.
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Actually....
With the ideas that were given, you could just put enough epoxy in between the two layers to fill the gap pretty full between the pieces of micarta or G10, AND THEN use your screws or pins for extra strength, but with a solid layer of epoxy between the two, I don't really think you'd need it. because it will be almost a perfect inlay between the micarta!
 
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