Scandi Bevels are Difficult To Make, Right?

[redsquid2]

I have tried and failed to make scandi bevels.

When my blade came back from HT, I went to the India stone, and stood there pushing it free-handed, carefully, slowly, across the "coarse" side for about 30 to 45 minutes. I was careful to keep that bevel flat on the stone, so as not to scuff up the flats. I thought I was close enough to zero to flip the stone over and use the "fine" side. Pushed it across the "fine" side for another 20 minutes or so, without ever getting a barbed wire edge. At this point, I was frustrated, losing patience, had uglied-up bevels and I still didn't have a cutting edge. I gave up and decided to put a secondary bevel on it. Close to scandi, but no cigar.

Several months later, with another blade, I repeated that same frustrating experience.

So I guess in order to do a scandi, you need a grinder that goes slow, and a jig. Am I right?

 

[Hesparus]

I use a jig, a grinder that goes fast and a light touch.

- Chris

 

[Robert Dark]

I am not a proponent of jigs. (That is just a personal preference, and I realize they have a place with many makers)

If you happen to have a variable speed grinder, you might want to slow down, and like Chris said, "Use a light touch". Its all in the "touch" whether you free-hand or use a tool rest.

After you grind a couple of hundred blades, whether it be scandi, hollow, flat, convex or whatever, you will eventually get the hang of it. Nothing beats experience, and experience is gained through lots of trial and error.

Keep at it...........

Robert

 

[redsquid2]

Thanks for the feedback.

One thing I have not tried is to lay the hardened blade on the work arm, before putting the handle on, and just sand the bevel down to zero, using a sanding block. Does anyone think that would work? I am getting pretty good at hand sanding, and I can sand nice and flat.

 

[james terrio]

One thing I have not tried is to lay the hardened blade on the work arm, before putting the handle on, and just sand the bevel down to zero, using a sanding block. Does anyone think that would work? I am getting pretty good at hand sanding, and can sand nice and flat.

Sure it will work! When I do scandi's or sabre grinds (which is very seldom) I grind the bevels as close as I can, then clean them up by draw-filing to even them out. Then I hand-sand the coarse file marks out, and when the bevels are even and straight, grind the flats on the platen to help get a crisp transition. Someone with a lot of practice in that style would likely be able to skip the draw-filing.

I almost always do all this before HT, but hand-sanding after hardening will accomplish the same thing... it will just take a little longer.

 

[Marko3]

You don't need a jig to do Scandi grinds. You have to take little bites and keep it flat. You need a good platen. I count my passes and just keep it very even so I don't have to chase one side or the other to get them to match. I have a variable speed grinder now and it does help at the very end to get the burr. But like it was posted above just keep at it.

I know some people don't like the scandi but it is the type of knife I carry the most and when I started making knives I just started making a lot of bushcrafters. I am just starting to do some saber and full flat grinds too. I don't want to be a one trick pony. Just keep working you will get it.

 

[Marko3]

Maybe try a bubble jig. That is a great aid to get you started on the right path.

 

[eric brinkerhoff]

Grinding down to a zero edge while maintaining perfectly flat bevels is indeed difficult . As an amateur , here are some observations:
Sometimes it helps to grind edge down .
grind lightly at diagonals to help you see what is going on .
Don't be afraid to go back to a coarse belt after H.T.
If your belt is'nt sharp on hardened steel there will be more tendency to "rock "the blade back and forth.
If you have a disk grinder ,now is the time to use it ,
a disk grinder can actually give a very slight concave grind that is easily flattened out by a pass or two on the belt .