- Joined
- Dec 29, 2008
- Messages
- 1,647
I know, another sharpening info for scandi grind, again?
Anyway, I have something I'd like to share and I got the idea actually from other forum members that do something similiar (with wood and sandpaper)
Here is the problem/solution. Scandi grind sharpening is theoretically easy, however practically on a stone not so much I find. I have had particular problems with one of my scandi knives that came with a very uneven, possible slightly convex scandi edge. I started to grind/sharpen it longitudinal on a stone and although that is also not easy, I was much closer to a very even process. Problem zones remain the part close to the ricasso and the tip.
Sooo, I took a Spyderco Sharpmaker diamond rod, cut of a piece with a metall saw (I know that hurts) the size that I could still hold it with my thumb and pointy comfortable and now, I use this little diamond triangle and sharpen the bevels longitudinal. Although I still have to grind quite a lot of the bevel since they are still not evenly flat, I think this is a very simple way and very portable. If I imagine having the same in the brown and the white caramic, I have a "out in the field" sharpening system that is not only light but also very effective and longlasting.
Thoughts?
Andy
The member I got this idea from is gds (Gary). He deserves the "copyright"
Anyway, I have something I'd like to share and I got the idea actually from other forum members that do something similiar (with wood and sandpaper)
Here is the problem/solution. Scandi grind sharpening is theoretically easy, however practically on a stone not so much I find. I have had particular problems with one of my scandi knives that came with a very uneven, possible slightly convex scandi edge. I started to grind/sharpen it longitudinal on a stone and although that is also not easy, I was much closer to a very even process. Problem zones remain the part close to the ricasso and the tip.
Sooo, I took a Spyderco Sharpmaker diamond rod, cut of a piece with a metall saw (I know that hurts) the size that I could still hold it with my thumb and pointy comfortable and now, I use this little diamond triangle and sharpen the bevels longitudinal. Although I still have to grind quite a lot of the bevel since they are still not evenly flat, I think this is a very simple way and very portable. If I imagine having the same in the brown and the white caramic, I have a "out in the field" sharpening system that is not only light but also very effective and longlasting.
Thoughts?
Andy
The member I got this idea from is gds (Gary). He deserves the "copyright"
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