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That's the Enzo Borka. However, the thumbstud geometry is slightly off, so it is slightly difficult to open. But the Birk 75 below does flick like a dream.
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Scandi grind for EDC
- Thread starter DangerZone98
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- Feb 14, 2013
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- 93
The Milwaukee Fastback is a popular EDC scandi.
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2019
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- 1,004
If one was so inclined, there is the cold steel finn wolf. But overall, scandi grind kinda sucks. Ok if you are just making feathersticks and battoning all day but whoever does that as everyday life probably isnt on the internet forums. A saber grind is just as good but it can do other things as well. Only reason to favor scandi grind is if youre scandinavian and are stubborn about your tradition being superior.
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- Dec 24, 2019
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- 1,004
Realistically, if youre in the woods you may make one or two feathersticks. Once you get the fire going there is no reason that youll need to do it again. If thats all you really need, theres no issue with stumbling your way through it with a knife that will be better at other tasks
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- Dec 7, 2019
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Is bringing a lighter for woodscraft considered cheating?
Never tried feathersticking before, but it sure looks fun.
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- Dec 7, 2019
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Here’s the latest scandi knife in my stash. Absolutely love the handle.
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2022
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- 8
Zombieing this, but: I've thought a lot about this question personally and for the past 2 years a Cold Steel Finn Wolf has been one of my two or three EDC knives (others are Kabar Dozier and Ontario Rat 1).
Here is where I come down on scandi grinds for modern EDC purposes in general (and by modern I mean the kind of use the "average" working or crafty person might put it through): for the most part Scandi grinds are good all-around grinds and capable of doing a lot of things well, but where the tradeoffs come is for their advantages in sliciness, shallow-angle carve type cutting, and easy sharpenability, they do give up some chip resistance and general resistance to abuse in comparison to more common secondary bevel type knives. It's not to say they can't be used hard, but if you do pick up a chip from either abuse or just having to do something unfortunate with your knife (whether this should ever be a thing that happens is a matter of philosophy), you are going to be taking down the entire bevel to get it out, which is a lot of work. On a similar knife with a secondary bevel, there's probably more material closer to the edge, which reduces the chance or severity of the chip to begin with, and then if you do need to re-profile it to take a chip out, there's much less material removal involved. Actually taking down the bevel on a scandi grind to remove a chip is a major project.
Another consideration in my mind as to why there aren't more scandi folders is that carbon steel is a naturally good fit with scandi grinds, but a lot of people have EDC folder use needs where stainless is very attractive, and sharpening stainless scandi grinds can be a bit of a handful because of the hardness and reduced workability of the material, which kind of goes against what's good about scandi. I'm not saying it's bad or untenable, but it is something that is apparent to me from living with my stainless Cold Steel EDC knife in comparison to my Moras.
Here is where I come down on scandi grinds for modern EDC purposes in general (and by modern I mean the kind of use the "average" working or crafty person might put it through): for the most part Scandi grinds are good all-around grinds and capable of doing a lot of things well, but where the tradeoffs come is for their advantages in sliciness, shallow-angle carve type cutting, and easy sharpenability, they do give up some chip resistance and general resistance to abuse in comparison to more common secondary bevel type knives. It's not to say they can't be used hard, but if you do pick up a chip from either abuse or just having to do something unfortunate with your knife (whether this should ever be a thing that happens is a matter of philosophy), you are going to be taking down the entire bevel to get it out, which is a lot of work. On a similar knife with a secondary bevel, there's probably more material closer to the edge, which reduces the chance or severity of the chip to begin with, and then if you do need to re-profile it to take a chip out, there's much less material removal involved. Actually taking down the bevel on a scandi grind to remove a chip is a major project.
Another consideration in my mind as to why there aren't more scandi folders is that carbon steel is a naturally good fit with scandi grinds, but a lot of people have EDC folder use needs where stainless is very attractive, and sharpening stainless scandi grinds can be a bit of a handful because of the hardness and reduced workability of the material, which kind of goes against what's good about scandi. I'm not saying it's bad or untenable, but it is something that is apparent to me from living with my stainless Cold Steel EDC knife in comparison to my Moras.
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2022
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- 8
Nah, the Finn Wolf is not perfect. Notably the thumb stud is done pretty thoughtlessly on it because it gets in the way of both stones and workpieces when doing shallow cuts. A hole or low-profile notch would be way better and it's hard to see how that was missed when designing it. But, it is a pretty interesting knife due to its weird combination of features (Scandi folders are weird to begin with, plus this one's budget priced, plus stainless Scandi is its own conversation) and living with it has offered some food for thought.Cold Steel shill suspicion level: 10%.
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2016
- Messages
- 35
Hi, anyone can name these two? ThanksLike full flat or hollow grind, I don't see why people should avoid scandi grind as a EDC knife grind, especially if you like to do a little wood carving or gardening for leisure. Surely it doesn't slice as well, but it's relatively easy to sharpen even for beginner and it's stout. I definitely do like to take the scandi grind knives whenever I go outdoor.
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- Dec 3, 2000
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My experience with Scandi grinds for EDC left me unimpressed overall. As others have noted, Moras worked out fairly well due to such thin blade stock. My Helle Dokka, which...I want to love in every regard. It was a gift from my son when he was very young and could hardly afford such things. But...it was awful as an EDC. Wedged into cardboard, wedged into hoses, apples, potatoes, etc. I tried carrying it on the oilfield for a couple months. It became clear to me that this knife was made to perform where "trees" are made of cellulose, not steel. My Finn Wolf did slightly better due to a higher grind, but still left me disappointed after spending a couple months EDCing it around town. I'll still be happy to take a Scandi grind in the woods from time to time, but for me, it will stay home when my boots are hitting pavement.
I have had the Enzo Borka. (I think the brand is called Brisa now) It was a terrible knife. Please do yourself a favour and avoid buying one. The action was terrible and after some light use one of the very tiny screws holding the scales together broke off. I got warranty from the dealer, but the guy on the phone told me the manufacturer was being really difficult about warranty and they've had more cases of screws breaking loose.
I have had the Casström Lars Fält lockback for a few years now and it is awesome! Some of the best ergonomics I've ever had in a folding knife.
Here it is on the manufacturer's website.