Scandi grind for outdoor preparedness

M

Machete Gringo

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May 1, 2012
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I just bought a MORA Companion HD and like the idea of the scandi grind. What are some other knives that use the scandi grind that are good for basic camp usage like setting up camp, skinning, and light wood processing?
I'm looking for a good bushcraft or survival type (in the wilderness sense) of knife in a 4-7 inch blade length. I really don't want to get into something custom that is hundreds of dollars because I don't want to loose it in the woods.
 
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Condor woodlaw and enzo trapper. Ive had a few mark wohlwend customs that were in the 85-110 range that i really like. Other then that, those are the only scandi grinds ive had. and the enzo was really nice. You made a good choice with the mora. If you are not looking to go over the 100$ range look into condor.
 
Check out Ivan Campos, a Brazilian cutliero. I have one of his Scandi grinds in 1070, handled by Kris Klammer of Edmonton. His prices are very reasonable and he can make whatever you want. The 1070 is extremely tough and the Scandi edge is flat-out the sharpest in my collection.
 
The TOPS B.O.B. knife has a modified scandi grind but has one of the better scandi grinds I've seen on 3/16 inch steel. Camillus just recently released their Bushcrafter which has a scandi grind. Both can be found for around the $100.00 mark and both are 1095 steel and US made.
 
Enzo Camper is 5" and D2 steel, I have one and it is a superb knife
Enzo Trapper is 3 1/2"

Gray Wolf makes a very resonalbly priced pukkoo shaped knife with a zero Scandi grind in 1095 and 4 3/4"
 
I think the EnZo knives are pretty hard to beat! The Camper is a very capable knife.

However there are plenty of puukko manufacturers out there that do a very affordable knife for the outdoors.

There's Iisakki Järvenpää, Ahti, Kellam to name a few. Plus you could always buy a kit and handle one yourself? EnZo kits are excellent (available in various degrees of completion), Polar & Altti
Kankaanpää are two of my favorite blade makers.
 
Enzo sell some nice scandi blanks which you could either wrap with para-cord etc or make your own handle for !
 
Why do you want a so-called "Scandi grind"? I just got another custom puukko and it came, as every single one has, without the "legendary" "Scandi" grind.
 
HardTripper said:
Condor and Kellam are the way to go for high quality, low priced scandis.
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Kellam is a very reputable reseller who sells at a significantly higher price than those who make the knives, such as Ahti, Roselli, and Wood Jewel.

Few knives Kellam sells are, in fact, single bevel knives - the so-called "Scadi" according to the British "bushcrafters" who seem to have invented the concept.

High quality and low price, while possible, are companions mostly in folk tales.
 
I trust in my Enzo Camper (D2) for going outdoor. scandi grinds are great for detailed works, and wood working. and the D2 keep an edge for quite a long time.
 
Thomas Linton said:
Kellam is a very reputable reseller who sells at a significantly higher price than those who make the knives, such as Ahti, Roselli, and Wood Jewel.

Few knives Kellam sells are, in fact, single bevel knives - the so-called "Scadi" according to the British "bushcrafters" who seem to have invented the concept.

High quality and low price, while possible, are companions mostly in folk tales.
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I think Kellam use Lauri blades...don't Wood Jewel use them (or Ahti blades)too??
Its common place, in the nordic countries, for knives to be produced that way. Bladesmith does not mean knifemaker.

As for the "scandi" grind....well that's been done to death.
Its either a Sabre grind (aka. in some places as a Zero Ground Scandi) or a secondary/compound bevel (grind).

I also know that when I buy a (puukko, lapin-leuku etc) blade from a Finnish company or maker.....well, unless otherwise stated, I expect it to have a secondary/compound bevel.

Its a Finnish grind I suppose....for sure its not scandinavian ;)
 
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Thomas Linton said:
Why do you want a so-called "Scandi grind"? I just got another custom puukko and it came, as every single one has, without the "legendary" "Scandi" grind.
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Why not?

I say just buy a backup mora and put it in your pack. If you break the first then just grab the second.
 
The "scandi grind" is a concept made by bushcrafters. If you take a look at scandinavian and finnish blades you'll see all kind of bevels, depending on blade's final use and on maker's preferences/ideas.

A sure thing is that scandinavian blades have a lower grind than finnish ones and more often have zero or tiny convexed edge.

Finnish rhombic section blades are a subject on their own.
 
Frederick89 said:
The "scandi grind" is a concept made by bushcrafters. If you take a look at scandinavian and finnish blades you'll see all kind of bevels, depending on blade's final use and on maker's preferences/ideas.
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Another candidate for the "fallacies" thread....
 
no offense to anyone intended as I can only speak from my own limited experience. but who cares really?? through my accumulated years outdoors I have never heard of anyone who suffered dangerously ill results in the woods as a result of blade grind.
I like moras. they are the only fixed blade I use at the time. for the following reasons.
#1 they are cheap
#2 easy to sharpen
#3 hold an edge
#4 i need a knife in that size range to be a scalpel not a cleaver.
and I just plain like them
over the years I;ve tried everything hollow, convexed, flat, sabre, chisel,
regardless of what I read I find very little if any real difference between them, in that they all perform what I need them too. end of story.. I think the grind of a knife is probably one of the most pondered and debated aspects of outdoor skills, and it;'s really arbitrary. If I spent half the time in the woods that I have wasted over the years musing over ideal aspects of a cutting tool. I'd be one heck of a woodsman.

Back to the O.P. as far as commercial scandi knives that won;t break the bank Kellam as mentioned, Martinni, Helle, are all nice pieces with helle getting my nod from that lot.

as far as cheaper customs Gray wolf knives, and Doug From DP knives (if he;s still making them_) both make great scandis at good prices.

Use what you like and what you find works for you... stay safe and have fun,
JR
 
RescueRiley said:
no offense to anyone intended as I can only speak from my own limited experience. but who cares really?? through my accumulated years outdoors I have never heard of anyone who suffered dangerously ill results in the woods as a result of blade grind.
I like moras. they are the only fixed blade I use at the time. for the following reasons.
#1 they are cheap
#2 easy to sharpen
#3 hold an edge
#4 i need a knife in that size range to be a scalpel not a cleaver.
and I just plain like them
over the years I;ve tried everything hollow, convexed, flat, sabre, chisel,
regardless of what I read I find very little if any real difference between them, in that they all perform what I need them too. end of story.. I think the grind of a knife is probably one of the most pondered and debated aspects of outdoor skills, and it;'s really arbitrary. If I spent half the time in the woods that I have wasted over the years musing over ideal aspects of a cutting tool. I'd be one heck of a woodsman.

Back to the O.P. as far as commercial scandi knives that won;t break the bank Kellam as mentioned, Martinni, Helle, are all nice pieces with helle getting my nod from that lot.

as far as cheaper customs Gray wolf knives, and Doug From DP knives (if he;s still making them_) both make great scandis at good prices.

Use what you like and what you find works for you... stay safe and have fun,
JR
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I agree. You have to get nit picky to really tell the difference. IMO scandi's are popular for your #2 reason. Getting a good edge is something a novice can't really do freehand so people tend to think they're "sharper" then other grinds. For the woods I haven't met a grind yet that failed miserably. One thing I will say to the OP is that a scandi is generally best under 1/8" thick IMO. A 1/8" thick scandi is plenty strong as it carries more of it's stock thickness then other grinds and if you get one too thick, passing through materials becomes harder. I think 3/32" thick is about the best compromise between cutting performance and strength.
 
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