Scandi grind is fragile? Huh?

Standard78 said:
True zero ground Scandi’s are great for carving but a sudden drop or a nasty knot can screw it up.
My genius friend left this on a table outside and his cat apparently knock it onto concrete. I called BS but he’s sticking to that story.
View attachment 899021
Click to expand...

Due to the even appearance of the edge damage, it sure looks to me like someone decided to baton with it. I do sharpening on the side and have fixed a lot of blades. Accidental damage is never completely consistent across the cutting edge. You might break a tip from an accidental drop, get a notch in the blade from cutting into something (even by accident) like a hidden nail or wire. I have rolled edges when breaking down commercial cardboard when I hit a large, hidden staple. A chip can be from anything.

But that kind of consistent, even damage across the length of the cutting edge? Smells like batoning or using the knife as a wedge in something really hard to me. If the knife hit the concrete when falling off a table and hit the edge, the strike zone wouldn't follow the curve of the blade. Nor would the geometry of the handle allow the blade to be damaged all the way to the sharpening notch.

Bad friend.

Robert
 
midnight flyer said:
Due to the even appearance of the edge damage, it sure looks to me like someone decided to baton with it. I do sharpening on the side and have fixed a lot of blades. Accidental damage is never completely consistent across the cutting edge. You might break a tip from an accidental drop, get a notch in the blade from cutting into something (even by accident) like a hidden nail or wire. I have rolled edges when breaking down commercial cardboard when I hit a large, hidden staple. A chip can be from anything.

But that kind of consistent, even damage across the length of the cutting edge? Smells like batoning or using the knife as a wedge in something really hard to me. If the knife hit the concrete when falling off a table and hit the edge, the strike zone wouldn't follow the curve of the blade. Nor would the geometry of the handle allow the blade to be damaged all the way to the sharpening notch.

Bad friend.

Robert
Click to expand...
I think the jagged looking edge on the tip is from his crappy old phone. He did a ton of work on his sharpmaker and now it looks like this.
He isn’t a big fan of batoning but I wouldn’t put it past him since it’s a new knife.
 
Last edited:
Standard78 said:
True zero ground Scandi’s are great for carving but a sudden drop or a nasty knot can screw it up.
My genius friend left this on a table outside and his cat apparently knock it onto concrete. I called BS but he’s sticking to that story.
View attachment 899021
Click to expand...
This spot right here is what gives your friend away...
2018-05-04 15.43.48.png
Due to the height of the handle/ricasso and how it extends out beyond the edge, this would protect the cutting edge from damage from falling onto (normally flat) concrete. Factor in the symmetry, frequency, and spacing of the chips, and you are looking at a repetitive and abusive pattern of use.

Your friend damaged this knife and is embarrassed by it. So long as he learned from it, and is willing to take the steps to repair the knife, there is no harm (other than to his ego).
 
midnight flyer said:
Due to the even appearance of the edge damage, it sure looks to me like someone decided to baton with it. I do sharpening on the side and have fixed a lot of blades. Accidental damage is never completely consistent across the cutting edge. You might break a tip from an accidental drop, get a notch in the blade from cutting into something (even by accident) like a hidden nail or wire. I have rolled edges when breaking down commercial cardboard when I hit a large, hidden staple. A chip can be from anything.

But that kind of consistent, even damage across the length of the cutting edge? Smells like batoning or using the knife as a wedge in something really hard to me. If the knife hit the concrete when falling off a table and hit the edge, the strike zone wouldn't follow the curve of the blade. Nor would the geometry of the handle allow the blade to be damaged all the way to the sharpening notch.

Bad friend.

Robert
Click to expand...
Just clicked over to the second page and saw that my post basically reiterates yours. Glad to know I wasn't the only person thinking along those lines.
 
NJBillK said:
This spot right here is what gives your friend away...
View attachment 899356
Due to the height of the handle/ricasso and how it extends out beyond the edge, this would protect the cutting edge from damage from falling onto (normally flat) concrete. Factor in the symmetry, frequency, and spacing of the chips, and you are looking at a repetitive and abusive pattern of use.

Your friend damaged this knife and is embarrassed by it. So long as he learned from it, and is willing to take the steps to repair the knife, there is no harm (other than to his ego).
Click to expand...
Yeah it’s a dead giveaway and I wanted to bust his balls for it but this is the first time I’ve seen him ding up a Scandi.
He’s all into that “bushcraft” fad and owns a bunch of scandi blades.
 
Pr3inar said:
If you don’t mind, how did you get the edge back to that condotion? Only the sharpmaker with original stones?
Click to expand...
I think he has a Spyderco Sharpmaker and I’m not sure what stones he used.
I offered my KME to him but he doesn’t know how to use it.
 
NJBillK said:
Just clicked over to the second page and saw that my post basically reiterates yours. Glad to know I wasn't the only person thinking along those lines.
Click to expand...

LOL... Right?

I have to save that at this point in my life, my non-knife friends are afraid to ask me to borrow one of my knives for anything unless it is to cut a ham sandwich. What they do with their cutlery in tools is certainly their business, but what happens to mine is mine.

If one of my amigos did that to one of my knives, they would never, ever hear the end of it. That would be ammunition for me to razz them hard ( "hey... I saw the dent in the truck! Was it thst damn cat again?") at least for a few months on a constant basis, and after that as needed.

It would take a hell of a lot of beer and cigars before I would let that go!

Robert
 
I think a pure scandi grind is a myth. Many scandinavian blades has a small micro bevel or they have slightly convex grind. They are very suitable for severe bushcraft operations.
 
  • Like
Reactions: vba
I even let myself think the Scandi grind is intended for rougher tasks like wood carving, whittling, rope cutting, roughly quartering a deer, or whatever, and what is nowadays called bushcrafting. Easy to sharpen / reshapen, thick behind the edge. It's not a slicer or a filleter, for sure. The Northerners have plenty of excellent knives intended for those tasks. So... Scandi grind means hard every day work for me, not kitchen duty. Here under one of my favorites (I chipped the edge cutting hard bread on a bamboo board... True story. I resharpened it on my little belt sander (gave a little lower and convexed edge). No problem...) I assume the extremely keen factory edge is not supposed to last forever. It's a 40$ user knife...
6capgN2.jpg
 
Last edited:
I suggest treating the loaning of knives like I treat the loaning of money; if I would not GIVE it to them, I will not LOAN it to them so I'm prepared to not get back what went out. ;) In the process, I learn about the person. :thumbsup:
 
I'm probably along this line : I lend only knives I'm ready to give away... If they ruin it, they can keep it. No longer my problem. Knives who are gift-worthy are reserved to knife-gift-worthy-people, of course !
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top