Scandi jig question

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rjedoaks

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Sep 15, 2009
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I've been soaking up all the knowledge around here for a bit. Made around 15 blades, all bushcraft Scandi style. Have around 6 months part time with all the tools needed at this point.
Here's my question. I'm using a jig, so no freehand. After finishing the handle when i removed the tape from the edge I noticed a big nick.. Using a stone I managed to remove the damage. Even though the edge is perfectly usable it no longer looks new. Now I need to clean up the edge and the plunge
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on the 2x72. Anyone made a jig or have any ideas to clamp the finished blade. Freehand isn't an option at this point. Thanks for your time


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On way to do it would be to get a short piece of angle iron with something like 1 1/4" walls. Lay you blade along the edge, and drill a couple holes 1/4" or so below the spine parallel to the edge of the angle iron. Thread them if you can or size them to allow a small (six though 6-10) machine screw to pass through. Clamp the blade down using those holes and small fender washers or better yet make some little sheet metal tabs. They should sit low enough to clear the belt angle. It might take a little fooling around to get them right so they will hold the blade without tipping it.
Next drill and tap a set of holes on the side of the angle iron, also parallel to the edge. Thread round head machine screws into this side with nuts to lock them in place. This will give you your adjustable angle to match the existing bevels. If you can't thread the holes you can use thin washers as shims, but it limits your adjustment.
If this doesn't make sense I'll try to explain better or put some pics up this evening.
 
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You gave me some good ideas. Never thinking of sliding the blade back on the jig to clear the handle and clamping from below. My platen at an angle has plenty of clearance. I'll check tonight.. Thanks


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One thing I forgot to mention is that the clamps need to have something slightly thicker than the blade placed opposite the blade itself. (the pennies stacked up in this photo) When the screw is tightened this forces the blade side to tip down and hold. If the spacers are not there the clamp will tip backwards and want to push the blade up and out. Also remember that having the screw centered, or offset to the blade side as opposed to the spacer side will give you better leverage and holding power, but you need to balance this with belt clearance. Again you might need to punch a couple sets of holes and play around with different clamp lengths to get something set where it clears the belt, but it should work for you. Sounds like you just need to touch it up, but don't put a ton of pressure into it until you have a good idea how the clamps hold.
 
Originally I tried a small clamp but the clearance was an issue. Then decided to use washers as you suggested on my jig. Worked great except for the plunge. The forward portion of the handle came in contact with the belt. Thanks for the tip. Let me try to post another pic. Rich


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Looks like your handle comes forward if the bevels when set level. Is that right? Hoping When you say the belt came in contact with the handle that was just in set up. If you're still looking for solutions you're going to have to set it at an angle and change your plunge, or clean up the spot you can't reach by hand.
 
Yeah I had to use an angle at the plunge. Came out fair but not great. Had more to do with skill than anything else. Thanks


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