Scandi vs. Sabre grind for Bushcraft?

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Mykke

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Jul 4, 2017
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After some consideration instead of an BRKT Aurora i'm going to be buying an LT Wright GNS cpm3v. Their is just one problem. I can't choose a grind.

I've only used scandi/scandi-vex grind knives and i was wondering what are your guys preferences when it comes to scandi-vex and sabre ( I would give a sabre grind a secondary convex bevel) grinds for bushcraft.
positive/negatives of both?
 
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Dlt Trading is an awesome place to buy knives. They are honest and get your orders out quickly. I don't have any experience with Lt's saber grind blades but their scandi knives are spot on. I own a pair of the Genesis models.
 
"Saber" refers to about half the width of the blade being unbeveled - parallel sides. What happens after that varies.

If there is a single bevel to the edge, it's an official British "Scandi."

If there is a secondary bevel, it's a real-world Scandinavian knife as they are actually made most of the time (90%+).

If the bevel is convex, it's a saber/convex - with or without secondary bevel.

However, someone calls all of them "Scandi" because there is no authority to say what "Scandi" means and "Scandi" sells, whatever the practical considerations - just opinions, and opinions differ, as you know.

And the Finns, who make all those all those puukkos ("puukot," really) that they have been using for something they are doing in the woods for centuries, like a much higher bevel than the Scandinavians, perhaps even a blade with a rhombic cross-section, possibly because they are not Scandinavian.

Also impacting the utility of the knife for "bushcraft" (once someone agrees on what THAT means) is the angle of the benel(s) and thickness of the blade - all of which impact woodworking.

Then there are all those who like what they do when using a full-flat or full-convex grind.

All to say, it's not a simple question.

Try to find real reviews (not just "openings") where the reviewer actually does things you plan on doing. Look for a used knife in these reviews - as in he actually used it.

You could ask Mr. Wright. He has an excellent reputation.
 
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Define "Bushcraft".

For a pounding I prefer a secondary bevel (saber with a v grind) because that is how most knives for the last century have been made and what I have grown up on.

I have one Mora and I like it but I do not trust it as much as I do my KA-BAR USMC MKII or my Boker Plus Vox Rold with a full flat secondary V grind but the Mora is popular.

There is room for all and if you are in the woods with only one you adapt to what you have and you use that tool according to its design and your needs.

I myself use many knives in the woods.

I use a folding stockman or trapper for lots of small game cleaning.

I use my KA-BAR USMC MKII for Bushcraft, fish cleaning and kitchen chores but I also have my Ontario SP10 Marine Raider for bigger task such as shelter building, camp fire processing and protection along with a Corona folding saw.

My Boker Plus Vox Rold in D2 I use for everything including Bushcraft, camp chores, kitchen duty and some hunting but I usually carry a Scandinavian Forest Axe and a bow saw with my Boker.

For doing nothing but whittling sticks I could get by with just my Mora Companion.
 
Hi Mykke,

Congratulations on sorting through the many options to make a choice. The LT Wright GNS looks real nice.

Here's a thread about scandi vs sabre grind for bushcraft -- with the usual mix of opinions: http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/scandi-grind-for-bushcraft-and-heavy-use.1195417/

My own experience suggests that there won't be a big performance difference between the Scandi and Sabre versions of the GNS. I agree with the folks who say that because you can more easily see what you're doing, sharpening a Scandi helps you to become a better free-hand sharpener -- and in my case helped me to learn how to get the most out of a guided (KME) sharpening system.

I have had good dealings with DLT Trading and have never heard even a whisper of complaint about them.
 
QAJAQ said:
Hi Mykke,

Congratulations on sorting through the many options to make a choice. The LT Wright GNS looks real nice.

Here's a thread about scandi vs sabre grind for bushcraft -- with the usual mix of opinions: http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/scandi-grind-for-bushcraft-and-heavy-use.1195417/

My own experience suggests that there won't be a big performance difference between the Scandi and Sabre versions of the GNS. I agree with the folks who say that because you can more easily see what you're doing, sharpening a Scandi helps you to become a better free-hand sharpener -- and in my case helped me to learn how to get the most out of a guided (KME) sharpening system.

I have had good dealings with DLT Trading and have never heard even a whisper of complaint about them.
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I've sharpened with water stones for a good while so its no prob (moras are basicly in my collection for this reason). I doubt a sabre grind would cause much trouble, i've just never had a knife with a sabre grind so i'm interested in how it compares with the grind i've used most of the time (been testing a flat grind with a secondary convex recently (enzo pk70). I don't have much experience with other grinds except for the scandi/scandi-vex.

As for my choice of going with the LT Wright GNS there are a few reasons:

1. Have not found contraversy on LT (have not looked much into that though)
2. Seems like a popular knife brand
3. Basicly the same thing as a BRKT Aurora but 80€ cheaper
 
When out in the woods, I like Saber, full height convex, and full flat. All with a convex edge. Not a fan of Scandi grinds at all!! Just my preference.
 
I love scandi for woodcarving work. I would take the saber for just about anything else.
 
I think, the scandi would excel at wood type tasks. The sabre or a FFG, would be a tad better at the food prep. One to do all? Don't think there is one. That's why we carry multiples.
Just my 2.
 
I'll echo what a few others have said, scandi is better for shaving(carving/whittling wood), saber is better at slicing through stuff(field dressing, cardboard-craft, haha).

Saber ground knives are utilitarian, Scandis' are geared more towards woodworking.
 
Mykke said:
How bout converting a sabre grond into a full convex?
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If I'm not mistaken the GNS also comes in a full convex option. So now you have three to choose between!

I think it comes down to how much wood carving you'll be doing, if that's going to be your primary use then the general consensus is that Scandi is the way to go. If it's going to be more of an all rounder then full convex would be my choice.
 
My thought is that if you already are pretty familiar with scandis, get the saber, and see how you like it. it would be easiest to convert farther to a convex, but if you didn't like it, you'll likely have little trouble moving it along.

As for the rest of it, this is a very normal part of the process. Think about a knife, find a different one that might be better, learn something about that one that leads you to another, then buy one and then think "do I like this, or am I just telling myself that so I don't feel bad about the cash spent" I think you will love the LT.
 
Full height as in full flat grind or full convex as apposed to Scandi or saber grind is probably what jdm61 is referring to.. as in the Kephart, which as a full flat was doing just fine as an outdoors knife long before we invented Bushcraft.
 
Full flat for me. If you're using the saber for strength you could use a thicker spine with a full flat and have increased rigidity and yet thinner geometry (whilst still being plenty strong) behind the edge for increased cutting performance. Saber grinds are usually more of a manufacturing convenience than a fully functional concern. Even if keeping stock thickness static you'd usually be better off with a full flat grind with the edge shoulder thickness held fixed. So-called "scandi" knives' primary advantage is in paring tasks where the bevel can ride against the target material.
 
Skrapmetal said:
I love scandi for woodcarving work. I would take the saber for just about anything else.
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An official (that is, British) "Scandi" is saber ground. It is saber ground with a single (or "zero") bevel - no secondary bevel, in contrast to what is customary in Scandinavian and Finnish woods knives.

Kootaga13 said:
I think, the scandi would excel at wood type tasks. The sabre or a FFG, would be a tad better at the food prep. One to do all? Don't think there is one. That's why we carry multiples.
Just my 2.
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Every professional chef's knife I have seen is FFG.

Now if you refer to the odds of encountering bones, that is why the Scandinavians and Fiins prefer something other than the official "Scandi."

And a thick knife of any grind slices thick material, like a slab of meat, worse than a thin knife with an equally acute edge of any kind, yes? I was a commercial butcher one summer, and the knives were all FFG with a secondary bevel and notably thin.

And every pro's wood carving knife in my collection, as sharpened by them, has a convex secondary bevel, the natural consequence of free-hand sharpening. Somehow, they overcame the "handicap" of no "Scandi" edges to make a living carving wood.
 
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I've decide to go with the sabre (how do i lock a thread or stop new messages from beong written??).
 
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