Scandinavian Grind--Secondary Bevel or Not?

[NapalmCheese]

I've heard that Finnish knives tend to have a secondary never, others might be zero ground. From the Laurin blades I've bought they all came with a secondary bevel.

As for wood working, a secondary never makes wood working more difficult in that you are no longer using the bevel as a chisel. That is, with a zero ground bevel you can start t
bevel flat on the wood making it easier to control the angle of attack the way you do with a chisel. A secondary bevel makes it more difficult to do that.

 

[CanadaKnifeGuy]

I was beating on scandi Moras and destroying / rolling the fine edge.

After putting a convex bevel on them with a work sharp belt sharpener, they got WAY stronger / more stable and stayed sharp much longer.

 

[kwackster]

Below is a quote from Thomas, product manager at Morakniv on the Tormek forum in a discussion in 2017 on how to sharpen Mora knives:

" I guess there is some confusion regarding the grindings and the edges, and I might be able to spread some light in this issue.
First, don't confuse ordinary "Scandi Grind" (used on 90% of our construction workers and outdoor knives) with "Scandi Grind Zero" (used on carving and whittling knives).
Ordinary Scandi Grind ALWAYS have a small secondary bevel.
In our factory we use different methods on different blades but the result is similar - to make the edge stronger, less vulnerable and get a better edge retention.
This is the way we have been making knives for 126 years now, so I think we can claim the right to tell what is what when it comes to our knives

This is the purpose of the leather wheel on your TORMEK grinder, like stropping, to deburr and create a sharp, strong and durable edge.

Some European, American and Asian knife manufacturers have a 1-5 mm high "secondary bevel" and that is NOT Scandi Grind, even if the rest of the blade looks like it would be.

One more thing to keep in mind that often causes misunderstandings: Primary grinding = secondary bevel and secondary grinding = primary edge.
This is depending on point of view; from a production angle or from a user view.

Thomas at MORAKNIV "

 

[Tongkang]

Just finished laying secondary bevel using homemade sharpmaker with spyderco medium stone ... this is my first attempt to put my no skill secondary bezel about 40' inclusive to all of them...my habit to put an oil to every knife I have just a cheap vaseline oil...yesterday I cut a cassava stick and I chipped the robust scandi grind .. .i cant remember if I was careless and hit a rock but that's it

 

[Thestripper]

The general purpose scandi knives (from mora, hultafors and the likes) usually come with a secondary micro bevel, perhaps from a rubber wheel finish?

These knives see heavy use and then receive crude sharpening in the field with whatever is accessible in terms of sharpening medium. This could be a small pocket diamond stone with fine grit (in my case), it could be a generic stone (usually way to coarse and used dry), could be the underside of a porcelain coffee cup, top of car window, angle grinder, sand paper or another knife even... Either one you pick, or a good combo of the mentioned methods will result in a larger and larger secondary bevel which in time will morf to a convex scandi because of all the wobbly free-handed quick sharpening. With a thick and wobbly edge these knifes are not scary sharp on most days but they are usually not so bad either. Sharp enough to gut a fish with some work, cut down a twig or two, make some kindling, cut a rope, split a cardboard box, open up a paint can, where the heck is the flat screwdriver... Best do some quick resharpening.

Scandi zero grinds, made for finer woodworking, is a a whole other story. They come with a flat scandi zero grind. Perhaps there's a nano bevel from stropping but that's it. They are used and cared for by a craftsman who cares for them and has a a small arsenal of them. They can have less or more acute edge angles, all suited to their purpose. These are treasured tools, used for their purpose and kept sharp.

Somewhere in the background always lurking is the general purpose scandi though. There's usually more than one infact! It's there and it's ready. It's paint chipped handle and functional yet gruesome grind, ready for any task suited or not suited for a knife. Open up a sodapop, cut a radiator hose or deburr some spiral ventilation pipe with it's nasty spine.
Wonder if I can get this to stick to the furthest wall if I throw it real hard? Huh.. nah, dind't stick.

I have both types. I don't think there's a right and wrong when it comes to scandi zero grinds and scandi grinds with micro/secondary bevels. They do different things though. As a bush knife I like a secondary bevel or a slight convex though.

Found this one on a local classifieds. Could be had for $35 + shipping. If it could speak I think it would be worth it.

 

[Thestripper]

I've heard that Finnish knives tend to have a secondary never, others might be zero ground. From the Laurin blades I've bought they all came with a secondary bevel.

As for wood working, a secondary never makes wood working more difficult in that you are no longer using the bevel as a chisel. That is, with a zero ground bevel you can start t
bevel flat on the wood making it easier to control the angle of attack the way you do with a chisel. A secondary bevel makes it more difficult to do that.

True that, but scooping cuts are easier with a secondary bevel.