Schatt and Morgan Mountain Man x 2

Mike, It was interesting to read your comments. My Antique Smooth Bone Mountain Man, #3L F&W just arrived awhile ago. I am very pleased with the fit, finish and the lockup on her. She is simply beautiful and tight.

I also got a GEC Calf Roper # 363 (stockman pattern to me) with Primitive Bone slabs as a companion.

Pictures later on...need some serious fondling time for now.

Tom
 
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Interesting review Mike, you have a nice collection there :)
 
Shims like bronze washers? I believe I saw one on a Copperlock that I had to send in. I assume that is common with lock bar construction? Buck do it?
 
Not got these knives, too large for my needs, but I've been very pleased with recent Queen knives in Curly Zebra Wood: very solid construction good finish and nothing to complain about. It's very nice wood too, lot of grain/colour variations, I believe it is tough&durable too.
 
Glad you got a good one Double Ott! As to how or why a person might be dumb enough to keep trying to get a good one . . . well, I've always been stubborn. I did try to shade the odds a bit with my latest purchase, thinking I might have a better chance with their premium line. I've never been lucky with such things, and from what Knifeswapper wrote, it seems there is an element of chance in this.

Knifeswapper, I've only had one of these apart (the stag S&M). I didn't see any shims--did I miss something? I did notice the blade tang was noticeably thinner than the lock bar/spring thing; I attributed the lateral play to this. I suspect the vertical play was due to the lock bar being short, if I inserted an .008" shim between the end and the tang, the blade would stop in the normal position.
 
Thanks for showing all those great examples.:)

I love the Mountain Man pattern as well as the Remington 1306. Here is a MM that Jerry Halfrich made me.........

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Not a shim as in a washer component. A shim (feeler gauge might be better terminology) is placed in the joint when peening to leave a little slack. Without it on a non-spring knife you would get it so tight you have to push open/closed. GEC uses such heavy springs to minimize the need for leaving slack to alleviate resistance; but for makers that want a lighter spring and a smooth flow they much minimize the resistance of a tightly peened joint. Each knife could leave the factory with a perfect setup, but I am not sure we could afford the extra time to gain it.

Take a blade out of a knife and put it back. You will gain a ton of understanding on the complexities of this process.
 
Yeah I get what you are saying. Thanks for the clarification. Maybe that rascal cants over during peening or some crud gets in there and bang it gets loosey goosey.
 
Thanks, for the insights, Mike.
 
To start, love the antique bone version above. Hoping to win an auction for a few new traditionals on that auction site soon. On that note, I'm happy that I found this thread and read most of it, never knew Of the qc issues, very glad to kinda keep an eye out for, thank you.
 
Not a shim as in a washer component. A shim (feeler gauge might be better terminology) is placed in the joint when peening to leave a little slack. Without it on a non-spring knife you would get it so tight you have to push open/closed. GEC uses such heavy springs to minimize the need for leaving slack to alleviate resistance; but for makers that want a lighter spring and a smooth flow they much minimize the resistance of a tightly peened joint. Each knife could leave the factory with a perfect setup, but I am not sure we could afford the extra time to gain it.

Take a blade out of a knife and put it back. You will gain a ton of understanding on the complexities of this process.

After a little thought this evening, I wondered if that might be what you were describing. I usually hear them called a "slacking tool" or "slackener." Basically it functions as a spacer, to establish a pre-determined amount of play in the joint.

I've had "a few" knives apart with the intent of re-assembling them, most recently an "Army & Navy Exchange" 6 blade congress I was repairing for a friend. (More often, lately, I am taking them apart to measure dimensions and study the designs, test hardness, etc.) I do have a vague idea of what's involved. I was pretty sure I hadn't seen a shim in place on the S&M I took apart, but had the thought that if there was supposed to be one, the absence might explain the problem.

(Just a sidebar, but the different approaches used by consumers and factories are interesting. The cutler uses a spacer to pre-establish a certain amount of play at the joint; consumers usually look farther out, even at the tip of the knife to see how much play the blade has. Some factories measured the amount of pre-load a spring tip has on the blade, while we consumers tend to look at this as how hard the pull is at the nail nick. It is no wonder we get confused trying to discuss different aspects of cutlery at times!)

Steven, thanks for posting the picture of the Halfrich knife! That is a beauty!
 
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