Hmm an interesting set of parameters.
I havent used anything in INFi from busse. (Never used any of their knives)
I am very familiar with CPM 3V. Its an exellent steel thst should definitely be able to handle both uses. I would recommend a 10 inch blade.
I would be interested in making a knife for this task, would be a good challenge. I have a different idea for the geometry. My first thought is a thinner blade (0.146-0.160) and do a full height convex grind and keep the edge relatively thin but not overdo it to keep it strong. And make a double edge point for the pig sticking. I dont have any experience with the pig sticking part so i would need to look more into it. The idea is a thin super tough machete styled knife. CPM 3V is nearly indestructible at 59-60HRC and still has good edge holding. Because the knife is light and thin it will chop quite well. Obviously it does have limitations, but my ETT Machetes that i have made work very well in this aspect.
My second idea would be to use 0.220-0.275 thick stock and do the same convex style grind with a more pronounced tip and top edge or swedge to assist in stabbing.
Just some food for thought.
Best of luck on your decision!
I go pig hunting using dogs and a knife occasionally, here are my thoughts on the pig sticking side of things...
Length: an eight or nine inch blade would be more than adequate for any size pig you would be willing to walk up to - a boar bigger than that would be too dangerous to approach, you would just shoot it. Beyond 10" in length you risk driving the knife all the way through a small pig and out the other side, which can be a problem if there are dogs involved - it is possible to stab your own dog. Pigs tend to run to cover, so are likely to have stuffed themselves into any available pile of logs, dense bushes, vines, hole in the ground, etc. So you have to be able to maneuver the knife in a tight, awkward space. So the shorter the knife the better for these two reasons. Optimal blade length would be about 8 inches if it was
just a pig knife, but if you want it as a chopper / brush clearer as well, I would compromise on optimal length to take it up to 10" or maybe even 11".
Shape: the perfect stabber is a bayonet, every stabbing weapon in human history has had approximately this shape, so the closer to a bayonet shape you can get the better. This means thin stock, narrow blade, long and pointy, drop point, and sharpened both sides. Of course, this is not a great shape for chopping, so a compromise will have to be made somewhere. For sows just about anything that's sharp would work, but big boars get 'armor plating' around their rib cage in the form of layers of gristle and fat, so optimizing for stabbing is important if tackling mature boars.
Stabbing: when you stab a pig, it goes between the ribs at the bottom of the rib cage behind the front leg. That's where the heart and lungs sit. If possible you want to cut open both the heart and the lungs (the heart sits right at the bottom of the rib cage, and the lungs sit on top of the heart). So you push the knife in, either aiming for the heart of the point between the heart and lungs, and then rotate it upwards and downwards repeatedly to try to cut both of those organs (the knife pivots around a point on the blade close to the guard while you're rotating it up and down). This means it needs to do three cutting motions well: cut upwards, cut downwards, and stab. So a sharpened top swedge for about one third to one half the blade (at least) is very useful. (I'm in Australia, so it cannot be a full length double-sided blade as that is considered a dagger. People get around that by having the sharpened swedge only extend for about a third of the blade. Same requirement is probably true in some States in the US).
Fuller: a fuller can help kill a pig faster by introducing a pocket of air into the heart. The organs are packed in and under pressure and blood and liquid is everywhere, so as soon as you stab it liquid will fill the cavity and the wound in the heart will 'self-seal' under the pressure and surrounding liquid. The pig will still die but it takes a good few seconds longer (10 seconds?), during which time it is suffering, and is also still dangerous. In that 10 seconds a sow could bite you, a boar could tusk your dog, etc. A fuller carries some air in and if that gets inside the heart it pumps the air through and should kill it pretty much instantly. So having a deep fuller going the full length of the blade and extending as close to the blade tip as possible would be beneficial.
Guard: when you stab it helps to have a guard that stops your hand sliding forward onto the blade.
Chopping / brush clearing: Pigs run for cover, so you often need to push your way into thick vegetation to get to it. Where I am (near-coastal Australia) this might be a pile of fallen branches, a blackberry bush, a thick patch of ferns, etc. So having a knife that can very quickly deal with thin, springy vegetation (including tough, stringy stuff like blackberry) as well as small wood (up to a couple of inches) is very useful. For that you want a slightly heavier blade than a bayonet, with some (but not too much) forward weight. Anything that makes it 'snappy' when swinging it. A big heavy blade doesn't work on thin springy vegetation, or at least is extremely slow to use. You generally want to get to the pig as fast as possible, before it runs away again or injures your dog.
Other qualities: OP wants to build a survival shelter and do trail clearing, and this is the one task that will seriously compromise the knife as a pig sticker. To meet OP's needs I would take the knife described above (if I was designing it) and make it a little longer and a little heavier than is optimal for all the things above. So maybe an 11" blade, .22" or even .25" thick to add weight, full flat grind (which OP stated is a preference), sharpened top swedge to only one third the blade length, quite thin behind the edge, and a fuller. This would make it a good brush knife while still being an adequate pig knife. Someone above mentioned a Busse B11, this would be about the perfect knife if a sharpened swedge and fuller was added to it.
