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- Aug 12, 2006
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OKAY, LOOKS LIKE SOMEONE BEAT ME TO IT WITH THE SAME QUESTION. NO NEED TO ANSWER HERE BUT I'LL LEAVE IT OPEN JUST IN CASE SOMEONE WANTS TO ADDRESS SOMETHING SPECIFIC
Hey all,
I'm looking for any advice on how to make a stronger detent. I like the way my detents are coming out but I want to try them stonger and compare apples to apples. I've handled knives with some strong (read - barely can be opened detents) and I want to know how that extreme is reached so I can dial it back a little.
The current method I like is borrowed from Ed Caffrey's writing's (if not the originator I don't know who to give the proper credit to). It's simple and repeatable by holding the blade tightly closed and drilling through the frame/liner and into the blade with a #55 carbide bit. Next ream the frame/liner with a #53. Set the ball (1/16" in this case) and done. Ok, maybe there is slightly more to it but you guys know what I'm talking about.
The other way I tried is from Bob Terzuola's book and I find it easy to mess up. The, set the ball-mark the path-drill at the end-method.
BTW I am making titanium framelock flippers with steel balls. Should I try ceramic? I hear they're smoother in operation but not as much bite when coming out of the hole.
I ordered some rolling point set screws to try the HRD out. Anyone with experience there?
Also, bending the lockbar further in is not what I'm talking about here.
Thanks in advance for the education!
Mark
Hey all,
I'm looking for any advice on how to make a stronger detent. I like the way my detents are coming out but I want to try them stonger and compare apples to apples. I've handled knives with some strong (read - barely can be opened detents) and I want to know how that extreme is reached so I can dial it back a little.
The current method I like is borrowed from Ed Caffrey's writing's (if not the originator I don't know who to give the proper credit to). It's simple and repeatable by holding the blade tightly closed and drilling through the frame/liner and into the blade with a #55 carbide bit. Next ream the frame/liner with a #53. Set the ball (1/16" in this case) and done. Ok, maybe there is slightly more to it but you guys know what I'm talking about.
The other way I tried is from Bob Terzuola's book and I find it easy to mess up. The, set the ball-mark the path-drill at the end-method.
BTW I am making titanium framelock flippers with steel balls. Should I try ceramic? I hear they're smoother in operation but not as much bite when coming out of the hole.
I ordered some rolling point set screws to try the HRD out. Anyone with experience there?
Also, bending the lockbar further in is not what I'm talking about here.
Thanks in advance for the education!
Mark
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