Scorching stabilized wood...common?

C

CDH

Joined
Jun 8, 2007
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283
I'm working with a piece of WSSI stabilized box elder and this is my first time to try any stabilized wood. It is pretty easy to scorch it on my grinder. This is doing the rough shaping with a (Norton AL-Oxide) 36 grit belt to hog off the excess so I haven't ruined anything, but the light touch required makes it almost as easy to use hand files!

Is this typical? It reminds me of my experience thus far with Micarta...don't grind long in one spot or else!
 
no. ive used alot of stabilized box elder and never had that problem. are you using fresh belts?
 
slow the sander down a bit and use a fresh belt. It's not real clear which belt you are using but close coated belts tend to load up and then burn/glaze stabilized wood. this is where cheaper AO belts really shine -- if that is possible.
 
tmickley said:
slow the sander down a bit and use a fresh belt. It's not real clear which belt you are using but close coated belts tend to load up and then burn/glaze stabilized wood. this is where cheaper AO belts really shine -- if that is possible.
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I agree........hogging wood is the one thing.......and possibly the only thing.........that the cheap ugly brown Hermes AO belts are good for.:D
 
Many woods will burn/scorch when sanding and polishing if you don't slow the grinder down to the lower end.
Stacy
 
Too high a belt speed combined with too much pressure will burn most any wood. It's the heat build up that does it.

Fred
 
gentlemen-------new here----tool&cutter,cylindrical,surfacegrinder for 20 yrs.ground everything from wood,aluminium,stellite,brass,bronze,carbides and stainless with silicon carbide---c36j4vbe---for general and saved aluminium oxide for carbon steels.simple,also the softer the material,the slower the speed.i'm not a salesman,so no ax to grind,cannot do my work anymore (busted shoulder)so going to autocad.good grinding,it's fun when you have the right tools.
 
Hi Friends,

I'm glad to hear these tips. I too just got my first batch of stabilized wood back and have a couple of questions. The untreated material (koa wood) went in to the process as 6 lbs, after treatment it weighed 10 lbs. It's amazingly 'plasticy,' both visually and 'olfactorily.'

Can I work it right away, or is there an optimal cure time I should wait for?

How long will it off-gas the plastic fumes and odor?

Thanks, Phil
 
bladsmth said:
Many woods will burn/scorch when sanding and polishing if you don't slow the grinder down to the lower end.
Stacy
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Now, if I only had an adjustable speed grinder...:D Mine is fixed at 2000FPM according to the manual. I'll use the belt cleaning block more and see if it helps. Thanks to all!
 
Also, get into the habit of feeling the wood after every pass and take short passes. When the wood starts to feel hot it's time to give it a rest.
 
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