Scotchbrite belts and sharp lines

[JG Custom Metal Works]

So I'm just finishing up a Gyuto and was thinking about putting a satin finish on it. It's a full flat grind and has the little curve on the flats that goes up to the spine at the top of the plunge. I was thinking if I used a scotchbrite belt to hit the entire bevel then it might wash that out. I was thinking that I could use the scotchbrite belt and then come back over and hand sand the flats. The issue is that little curve doesn't have much material on it and a scotchbrite belt might even knock it off, leaving me with a grind that ends at the spine(not just below like it should be).

Any ideas?

 

[Pittknife]

I've tried a couple of them and depending on the belt grit (fine, med, coarse) it can wipe out the grind lines. I usually only use them when I take my bevels to a lower grit, not when I'm going past 320g.

But yeah I would be real careful with using them, they can remove material.... Hand sanding is the way to go in my opinion.

 

[NJBillK]

Hand sanding is the way to go in my opinion.

This is what I would agree with.

That being said, with Scotch-Brite belts, u have noticed that if you Barely touch them, you can get a comparable finish to a few passes with more pressure with less likelihood of washing out your lines. Even though it will still likely happen until you get "Your" technique down for how much of a touch and pressure is required.

 

[Matt Rochester]

Cork belts are a better option if you are trying to keep from washing out your lines.

 

[JG Custom Metal Works]

Cork belts are a better option if you are trying to keep from washing out your lines.

I have a few of those. One of them is already prepped and loaded with green chromium. It's my understanding they're mainly good for higher, polished finishes, not satin...

What grit do you take your finishes up to before using a cork belt on it?

 

[Matt Rochester]

I have a 400 and 600 grit belt. I go 220 ao and then 400 cork.