Scott Roush......

[P. McKinley]

Scott - These are just simply stunning!

Could you explain how you do the "forged copper highlights"?

Thanks,

Peter

 

[ScottRoush]

hey... thanks. no problem sharing.

Start with both copper and steel clean and free of oxides and scale. The copper I used was thin sheet.. not sure the thickness. But less than 1/16". Wire the copper on tightly with copper wire so that both surfaces are flush together. Use thicker copper as the thin wire quickly disintegrates. The usual way is to bring it up to the welding temp of copper... not sure what it is.. I just do it by eye. But be sure to soak long enough so that the steel comes up to temp.. the copper will heat up instantaneously. I then bring it out of the forge and hammer it into the steel. On the one you've pictured.. I let the copper get to it's melting point for just a split second. If you leave it too long it all runs off into the bottom of your forge. It takes some playing around with. Once the oxides start form between the surfaces then nothing at all will stick. Good luck!

no big deal.. but everybody wants to put a C in my last name!

 

[Rick Marchand]

Scott, you know I'm a big fan of your work. This piece looks so simple and organic but I know the skill that goes into it. I've had the puddles in my forge to prove it..... not easy. You pull it off very well. Excellent pic, too.

Rick

 

[P. McKinley]

Thank you Scott ROUSH(my apologies).

 

[javand]

Yeah ditto. I've had good luck with using electrical wire if I preheat the steel a bit and flux it. Not sure if that's necessary or not. One set of my tongs are permenantly copper soft jawed now.., which is I guess, a good thing.

 

[Brian Ayres]

Thanks for sharing your technique Scott. Copper is my personal favorite accent/guard/liner metal for knives.

I loved all these knives you posted in the custom and handmade forum