- Joined
- Jul 18, 2012
- Messages
- 115
hello guys and dames,
it took me some time to finish these three puukkos so I hope you won't mind me explaining why (if this does not interest you, just skip the writing - specs are listed above the photos).
after I receive the blades from antti, I draw the sketch of a knife to be.
it is to be comfortable, no matter the grip, duration of work nor temperature - natural materials (bone, antler, wood and leather) and hidden tang construction wrapped up in smart design enable me to achieve this.
traditional design is the foundation of a good knife - thousands of years of development in every imaginable way, from chopping and hunting to woodcarving, cannot be and should not be overlooked.
I make somewhat unique knives, but I build them on these foundations.
aesthetically, it is to have a fine flow of lines from the tip to the butt with well developed details which serve a purpose (steadfast grip).
I use natural materials and carbon steel in most of my knives. I appreciate the way they become more beautiful with age.
why would one will the things he makes to remain motionless, frozen in solitude of time and place, never changing nor getting tarnished by use?
everything ages, so make things in such a manner that they age gracefully.
oops, I drifted off..
ok, then I fit the bolsters.
blades are hand forged (somewhat asymmetrical and of a classic 'tommi' profile - thickest where the grind line begins and tapering towards the spine and the edge) and do not have a ricasso, so it takes a bit of work with needle files to achieve a tight fit.
I fit a block of wood to the blade with bolster on and make sure there are no gaps, roughing out the shape of the knife to be on a grinder and with a set of metal files and wood rasps.
after I rough out the handle to the approximate shape, carving takes place (this 'roughing out' is a stage where a 'normal' knife would be finished, but with these little monsters it is a place where the work begins).
I draw the sketch onto the handle and carve the outlines with a micromotor.
rest of the carving I do solely by hand with carving knives and files (though this is slower, it allows me to create fine lines without traces of tremor or interruption).
this stage I like the most, though it is a fiddly point where one can ruin everything done so far :nonchalance:
next, polishing and texturing, patina.
this stage takes the most time and effort, since every overlapping piece or similar details have to be polished separately - every next step with a higher grit
bolster is textured, sanded and textured again. and again.
I apply patina with different chemicals and acids.
inlays are sunken in and voila - the knife is done.
sheath?
it is tight and tough - I imagine it as if the knife was a body, a skeleton and muscles over which leather is strapped, taking up the minimum of space (less weight, less snagging and other stuff oversized things produce) and protecting both the user and the knife.
sheaths below are a good example of how different knives require different approach.
after the sheath is sewn, I impregnate it with - molten beeswax.
it is natural, stiffens up the leather, repels water, has antimicrobial/antiseptic/antifungal properties, smells fine and - is eatable :highly_amused:
so, if you're in a pinch, don't eat your shoes - eat your sheath.
ok, this is - it!
I thank you for your patience.
hopefully you'll like the knives.
sorry for the poor photos, they're taken with a phone.
you can find more on my facebook page.
stay safe,
Mile
armored puukko:
blade forged by antti makinen in 0.7C tool steel, tempered to about 59hrc.
4.1" x 0.2" x 0.8"
handle made in pear wood with brass bolster and ebony inlays.
4.7" long.
scandi sheath with a full wooden insert, sewn with 0.12" thick leather.
price: sold shipped worldwide (or equivalent in other currencies).
stalker scout puukkos:
blades forged by antti makinen in 0.7C tool steel, tempered to about 59hrc.
3.3" x 0.2" x 0.78"
tangs are peened over sunken deer skullbone inserts.
bicolor stalker.
handle: lignum vitae, brass, ebony inlays.
4.5" long
0.16" thick vegetable tanned leather sheath.
pear wood stalker.
handle in pear wood, brass, ebony inlays.
4.5" long.
0.16" vegetable tanned leather sheath.
price: sold a piece shipped worldwide (or equivalent in other currencies).
- if you have questions or suggestions, feel free to ask.
it took me some time to finish these three puukkos so I hope you won't mind me explaining why (if this does not interest you, just skip the writing - specs are listed above the photos).
after I receive the blades from antti, I draw the sketch of a knife to be.
it is to be comfortable, no matter the grip, duration of work nor temperature - natural materials (bone, antler, wood and leather) and hidden tang construction wrapped up in smart design enable me to achieve this.
traditional design is the foundation of a good knife - thousands of years of development in every imaginable way, from chopping and hunting to woodcarving, cannot be and should not be overlooked.
I make somewhat unique knives, but I build them on these foundations.
aesthetically, it is to have a fine flow of lines from the tip to the butt with well developed details which serve a purpose (steadfast grip).
I use natural materials and carbon steel in most of my knives. I appreciate the way they become more beautiful with age.
why would one will the things he makes to remain motionless, frozen in solitude of time and place, never changing nor getting tarnished by use?
everything ages, so make things in such a manner that they age gracefully.
oops, I drifted off..
ok, then I fit the bolsters.
blades are hand forged (somewhat asymmetrical and of a classic 'tommi' profile - thickest where the grind line begins and tapering towards the spine and the edge) and do not have a ricasso, so it takes a bit of work with needle files to achieve a tight fit.
I fit a block of wood to the blade with bolster on and make sure there are no gaps, roughing out the shape of the knife to be on a grinder and with a set of metal files and wood rasps.
after I rough out the handle to the approximate shape, carving takes place (this 'roughing out' is a stage where a 'normal' knife would be finished, but with these little monsters it is a place where the work begins).
I draw the sketch onto the handle and carve the outlines with a micromotor.
rest of the carving I do solely by hand with carving knives and files (though this is slower, it allows me to create fine lines without traces of tremor or interruption).
this stage I like the most, though it is a fiddly point where one can ruin everything done so far :nonchalance:
next, polishing and texturing, patina.
this stage takes the most time and effort, since every overlapping piece or similar details have to be polished separately - every next step with a higher grit
bolster is textured, sanded and textured again. and again.
I apply patina with different chemicals and acids.
inlays are sunken in and voila - the knife is done.
sheath?
it is tight and tough - I imagine it as if the knife was a body, a skeleton and muscles over which leather is strapped, taking up the minimum of space (less weight, less snagging and other stuff oversized things produce) and protecting both the user and the knife.
sheaths below are a good example of how different knives require different approach.
after the sheath is sewn, I impregnate it with - molten beeswax.
it is natural, stiffens up the leather, repels water, has antimicrobial/antiseptic/antifungal properties, smells fine and - is eatable :highly_amused:
so, if you're in a pinch, don't eat your shoes - eat your sheath.
ok, this is - it!
I thank you for your patience.
hopefully you'll like the knives.
sorry for the poor photos, they're taken with a phone.
you can find more on my facebook page.
stay safe,
Mile
armored puukko:
blade forged by antti makinen in 0.7C tool steel, tempered to about 59hrc.
4.1" x 0.2" x 0.8"
handle made in pear wood with brass bolster and ebony inlays.
4.7" long.
scandi sheath with a full wooden insert, sewn with 0.12" thick leather.
price: sold shipped worldwide (or equivalent in other currencies).
stalker scout puukkos:
blades forged by antti makinen in 0.7C tool steel, tempered to about 59hrc.
3.3" x 0.2" x 0.78"
tangs are peened over sunken deer skullbone inserts.
bicolor stalker.
handle: lignum vitae, brass, ebony inlays.
4.5" long
0.16" thick vegetable tanned leather sheath.
pear wood stalker.
handle in pear wood, brass, ebony inlays.
4.5" long.
0.16" vegetable tanned leather sheath.
price: sold a piece shipped worldwide (or equivalent in other currencies).
- if you have questions or suggestions, feel free to ask.
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