Scrap metal?

R

rudylorren

Joined
Sep 17, 2014
Messages
14
So i'm working on my first knife (i'll post pictures later if you guys want) and there is alot of scrap metal from profiling the blade, plenty if worked together I could pound out another knife. I may be putting the cart before the horse here as i'm going to be building my forge this week (my work had an old forklift propane tank that was too old to refill, so they let me take it home :) ) and i'm still working on what to use as an anvil, but i've got my feelers out now and will ask about that later if what I have in mind doesn't work out.

My idea (as i don't have a welding machine) is to drill holes in one end of the scrap steel, running some (galvanized?) steel wire through the hole and beating it together. I realize I might need to do it piece by piece, but what do you guys think? Is this a good idea? any suggestions as to a better route?
 
Last edited:
My first anvil was a chunk of an I beam.. It served well enough I suppose. Though from there I just sank a 20lb, round, 5 inch diameter, 5 inch thick, chunk of steel from the hydraulic press at work, half way into a full 5 gallon pail of concrete.. After it cured, I set it on an old semi trailer next to my forge, and secured it to the trailer...
I won't call it an anvil, but jeeze is that thing a wall... Moves my hot steel waaay easier then the original I beam.. I noticed that within the first hammer strike on the thing, no joke.
I have heard of rail road tracks, sledge hammer heads, old manhole covers, large chunks of solid steel, ect, ect all being used well as anvil's.. The main thing, from what I can tell, is that it has a solid base, it is hard steel that can take a hammer blow (and bounce it back at you), it is large enough to work at least a couple inches of hot steel at a time, and you can adapt it further for your future needs.. (Example, my "anvil" from the steel block, in concrete, has a 1 inch hole in the center already. This will be a nice ready made hardy hole when I decide I need to make some extra accessories for it, I already have a nice old 1 inch chisel I plant to cut to height, sharpen, and place in the hole to use as a "hot cut" tool when I need it..)

Though, I don't have much experience.. I have read, ALOT, but I am amateur status as a blacksmith.. My advice is decent at least, worth considering, but take these ideas, look into them, and expand on them, I do know many people have had much success with variations of the types of make shift anvils I have suggested.
 
I know a blacksmith that is saving up all of the iron and steel scraps and filings he picks up from the floor. He will try and melt and cast them later. But he is going to build a ?small foundry and try it that way. Keep track of the type of steel you have and sometime in the future you might be able to weld them together. For now get a hold of some known steel.
 
The steel i'm working for the knife is(was) a 4' X 3" 1/4" thick 1095. I know its not top of the line, but there seem to be quite a few people that still or have used this steel for quite some time...

Gendry, Do you think I could find something like that at a junkyard?
 
1095 steel is available at all the knife supply houses. Buy it there and you can be sure its 1095.
 
Please be careful using a propane bottle for your forge. Cutting it can be dangerous. Don't want to hear the US is back in the space race that way. Forging is therapeutic for sure and you can save a lot of steel if you forge close. Good luck.
 
A C Richards said:
Please be careful using a propane bottle for your forge. Cutting it can be dangerous. Don't want to hear the US is back in the space race that way. Forging is therapeutic for sure and you can save a lot of steel if you forge close. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Oh yes, I've left it open for two days now, and tuesday (when i'm off and can start working on it) I am going to take off all the valves and wash everything out with water, possibly soap as well if it still smells... Are there any other precautions I can take? I'm no astronaut ;)
 
Fill it to the top with water to make sure all the propane has been displaced. Then take out just enough water to make your cut on one side. Are you using wheel or torch??


ETA. I have a large RV bottle I was going to use as a forge. Removed the valve about 3 years ago. Turned it upside down and it has been sitting since. Don't like the idea of cutting it. Went to the junk yard and picked up a precut O2 bottle and used it instead.
 
Roger...


what about anvils would this square steel block

or the one I posted above (sunken in concrete) be a workable solution?

If there is a resource for this that i'm missing I will gladly read it
 
Last edited:
Your square steel block is a bit small. The 40# in concrete would work, but you might find a better deal at a recycling yard or junk yard. Where are you located?
 
Welcome to Shop Talk. Knifemaking and bladesmithing are fun, but take your time and realize that it will be a long process from basic knives to high end knives. It also is a long learning process from basic skills to advanced skills like welding up odd billets of steel pieces. Go slow and learn one skill at a time. When that is developed, move to a new skill. Most makers start with a simple drop point hunter and make five or more of that style before venturing to more advanced knives and methods. In the beginning, stock removal ( filing and grinding) is the best way to get started. Forging will come along on its own. Here is the BF search engine to find any topic:
https://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=011197018607028182644:qfobr3dlcra

Filling out your profile with all the info ( age, location, occupation, hobbies, etc.) will help us help you better.



The bench block you linked to is for small jewelers work...it won't work for knives.
The round is too small for anything but a cutler's anvil ( finishing rivets and such). Placed in a bucket of concrete it would do, but a bigger piece of steel would be better.
Get a block/round of steel weighing 70# or so. A used or broken fork lift blade is a favorite anvil source. Google/search fork lift blade anvil.

As to your wish to pound the scraps together, or the suggestion about melting them into new bar stock, both ideas are bad ones. Technically, both can be done. Practically, neither will produce knife steel. It will also take a lot of equipment and experience to do either one. Just buy your bar stock in the sizes needed to keep down waste. Most makers use 1.5" and 2" wide bar stock. 1/4" is also pretty thick unless you are forging it thinner. 1/8" is more than thick enough for most any knife. 3/16" will do for even the biggest camp chopper. While 1095 makes a good knife, 1084 will be a better choice while you are learning and gaining HT experience. It is a great steel no matter what your level is, but in the beginning it is a really easy steel to work and HT.

Knifemakers and blacksmiths often become ridiculous hoarders and save everything they think can be re-purposed. Their shops and homes are often filled with and surrounded by old junk. Don't make it worse by saving scarps of steel and filings. Just toss them in the trash when you clean up. Even saving them for the scrap yard is almost ridiculous, as it would take most folks a year to save up a couple dollars worth of scrap. In a large production shop, having a scrap bin is good, in a small home shop, having a trash can is better.
 
rudylorren said:
My idea (as i don't have a welding machine) is to drill holes in one end of the scrap steel, running some (galvanized?) steel wire through the hole and beating it together. I realize I might need to do it piece by piece, but what do you guys think? Is this a good idea? any suggestions as to a better route?
Click to expand...

Don't put galvanized anything into a forge. The zinc will burn off and the vapors are toxic.
 
alohadave said:
Don't put galvanized anything into a forge. The zinc will burn off and the vapors are toxic.
Click to expand...

Aloha Dave, welcome to Shop Talk.


This statement pops up often. There have been many threads about it that deal with it in detail. The Cliff Notes version is :
Contrary to popular internet lore, the fumes given off by galvanized metal aren't toxic. The white fumes are zinc oxide. It can cause "Metal Fume Fever" which is a short lived cold/flue like symptom. Fresh air, drinking milk, and a good night's rest take care of it in 24 hours. Additionally, a small piece of galvanized wire would emit a very small amount of zinc oxide.

That said, one should certainly not put galvanized metal in the forge. His entire plan would not work anyway.
 
Welcome to the group - As usual, Stacy has given some VERY good advice. While 1095 can make a GREAT blade, the heat treating is MUCH more critical than is 1080/1084. That's the stuff to start with. No point in my typing more, I'd just be saying what Stacy has already said. Listen to da man!

Ken H>
 
Dang, well I guess I will do what I can with what I have now. And then move on to the 108(0/4) next.

So as I understand it beating the scraps together would change the metalurgical structure of the steel and turn it into something completly different?

Could I pound out one of the smaller pieces to a small (thinner) knife without changing the steel too much? (this 1/4" is proving to take forever to get a bevel with just a file)

I'm looking at the forklift anvils now, and that seems to be the way to go. As I see it basically you want the largest heaviest piece of steel you can find to work effectively.

Should I find some regular steel wire to run through the handle of the knife when forging? (untill i can get an anvil and make my own tongs)

Stacy, Ken, everybody thanks so much for the information so far. I'm getting the bigger picture and I truly appreciate the help :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top