Scrap Yard, Ranger or SK5 Trailmaster

The RTAK II seems to me to be the most like a small machete. That is a good thing in my book. The Ranger or Swamp rat might be a stronger knife but I am not sure how much strength you need.

For me, I want speed and the ability to chop for hours without getting tired. A knife like the Dog Father or Ranger is going to tire me out before I am done with my cutting and chopping. They are also not good for fine work or light veg. They are like axes with an inline handle. IMHO, there is not much use for them.

The Trailmaster is still a good knife. I think the RTAK has the edge though.
 
kgriggs8 said:
The RTAK II seems to me to be the most like a small machete. That is a good thing in my book. The Ranger or Swamp rat might be a stronger knife but I am not sure how much strength you need.

For me, I want speed and the ability to chop for hours without getting tired. A knife like the Dog Father or Ranger is going to tire me out before I am done with my cutting and chopping. They are also not good for fine work or light veg. They are like axes with an inline handle. IMHO, there is not much use for them.

The Trailmaster is still a good knife. I think the RTAK has the edge though.
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The RTAK probably wont hold up to hours unless you are steeling it often within those few hours. Every ontario blade I have had, and I have had many, has had really weak steel at the edge. The amazing thing is how much of a difference there is between a quality knife of 1095 and a poorly HT'd knife out of 1095. Tops knives are the same steel and perform much better. they also cost much more.
 
I didn't realize Ontario had such weak blades.

I say that because I have an old survival bowie from Ontario. Still have it. It only took one swing to go through green branches of up to an inch in diameter. I took the upswept tip down to a clip shape and threw it constantly. The tip never bent or broke. The kraton handle finally wore out, and I haven't gotten around to putting a new one on it yet.

I thought it was just the RATK blades.
 
seth2915 said:
Well I got the Ranger, used it a bit, decided what I wanted out of it and did a little work on it.

I ground the blade to be a little thicker at the edge and to change the tip shape slightly. I took off the black epoxy and gave it a satin finish, first with a new 120-grit belt and ending with with an old, dull 120-grit belt. That seemed to keep the friction down, which minimized sparking and let me do more precise work. I left the coating on around edge of the tang to keep the knife from rusting in my hand. I stopped grinding long before any part of the blade got hot to the touch, so I kept the original heat treatment intact.

Finally, using a silicon carbide water stone and 1000-grit sandpaper, I put a convex edge on it, which is why I wanted a thicker edge in the first place. That helped me get the edge profile I wanted. It shaves and chops very well and very easily.

Granted, I probably voided the warranty with all that work, but given the original high-quality workmanship, I somehow doubt I'm going to need it.
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One, no way did you void the warranty, Justin will cover it, he is a no BS guy, he might not cover you if you stuck it in a vice and
smashed it like noss (but even then maybe) and 2 you may be the only person to want a Ranger to have a thicker edge! LOL :D
P.S. Can you say this thread needs pics?! :D
 
I'm not a fan of noss4's destruction tests, but I did watch what he did to a SY Scrapper 6 in S77 steel. I was impressed with the amount of abuse that knife took before he finally broke it. If you can pick up a DogFather, I say go for it.

seth2915 said:
Does anybody actually use a Busse?
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Pic is a Dogfather, but I use my Busses too. :thumbup:


DF2.jpg
 
seth2915 said:
I didn't realize Ontario had such weak blades.

I say that because I have an old survival bowie from Ontario. Still have it. It only took one swing to go through green branches of up to an inch in diameter. I took the upswept tip down to a clip shape and threw it constantly. The tip never bent or broke. The kraton handle finally wore out, and I haven't gotten around to putting a new one on it yet.

I thought it was just the RATK blades.
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I did not say weak, I said inconsistent with typically weak edges. Any 1/4 inch thick knife wil be strong and heavy. It's edge will not last.

But since you mentioned the survival bowie. I broke one with hardly any pressure. One of the few big blades that I was surprised flexed and broke so easily. The marine raider bowie is probably the strongest of the lot, but is also the worst blade profile as it is a flat piece of 1/4 inch steel with a tiny sabre grind. talk about a prybar:rolleyes:
 
seth, I see now that you already got the RD-9. Congratulations. It is a great knife. I own one myself, and Justin is about as nice a guy as they come. He makes a fine knife and stands behind it. What more can you ask?

To add, I own a RTAKII as well. It's just a much thinner blade, and I think it makes a better machete-like (brush clearing) tool than a chopper. I like my RTAK for said purpose, but when I want to chop or split wood, I reach for a Battle Mistress, a Battle Rat, or a Dogfather. FWIW, this one is my top choice:

Hike6.jpg
 
The only reason I wanted it thicker at the edge was so I would have more to work with when I put a convex edge on it. I use a whetstone and sandpaper, and I find it easier to put the convex edge on using those tools when the edge is a little thicker. Not much. I basically sanded off the original edge bevel and started from there. It actually turned out nicely.

If I ever get a chance to pick up a DF at a decent price, I will jump at the chance. I had the money at the time, and I really want both. When I ordered, the DF just wasn't available at the price I wanted to pay.


As for the Ontario Survival Bowie, I guess I just got lucky on that one.
 
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