Screwed in titanium

Mick_1KRR said:
It's just a lazy design period. Just put a dam threaded female barrel through it so it eliminates possible issues, i'm sure they can afford it with the prices they ask for knives these days.
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Some people like the 'cleaner' look it can create, since you won't have screw heads on one side. The custom I had was blind tapped, so there weren't any screws showing on the side with the threads in the titanium, which is pretty cool. But in the case of the ZT 0220 I agree, since the screws are visible anyway.
 
I'd be more worried about cross-threading. Just be careful, work slowly, and always pay attention to how things feel.

Are the screws that come with the knife made of steel? If so, you could replace them with titanium screws from the aftermarket (but don't overpay). A titanium screw is an inferior cutting tool.
 
View attachment 1004865 All the knives in this picture have pocket clips secured with steel screws inserted into tapped Titanium. I drilled and tapped the lower knife to utilize #0X80TPI screws. Both of the green knives have been EDC’ed for over 15 years, although they weren’t always green.
 
On the rare occasion that I realize that I have just gone past "tight" and have entered the "first stage" of stripped, I back off (unscrew) 1/4 turn and put it down.
 
Should a problem arise there are many relatively easy fixes. Lazy design is a silly concept more like standard construction. The only difference between a custom costing double for the same materials is one,a blind hole. Two, warranty nullified by disassembly. I would keep the steel screws in case one snaps off acid removal would be simple.
 
Properly hardened screws + straight-tapped holes + threadlocker = no problem.

If you want "permanent", disassemble your knife, degrease thoroughly, place screws finger-snug with LT Red, let sit overnight, and reassemble.

This seems waay too complex for some folks.
 
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danbot said:
A bad design to have the screws engage in titanium? Why not? Even in steel you will strip threads if you over tighten too much.
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My brother maybe twenty years ago was managed to break in half the shaft /about 25mm Dia. hardened steel / of C.V.Joint with over tighten , so any thread can strip:D To OP , it is knife for God sake not car wheel .. . . . no need to tight screws hard , gently with one hand is enough :thumbsup:
 
View attachment 1005237 Even if you have the proper 3 tap set (starting, plug, and bottoming), I wouldn’t recommend tapping blind holes in Titanium, especially if the last tap comes anywhere near the bottom of the hole.
 
As long as you have full thickness thread engagement (meaning if the screw is long enough to go all the way through the scale; pretty much). It should be just fine.

TITANIUM IS CONSIDERABLY STRONGER THAN ALUMINUM.

I have always said that if I had to pick one knife to drop off a scaffolding three stories up and expect it to work after ward I would pick a Ti handled knife. TOUGH STUFF ! ! ! !

The axle between my crank arms on my daily computer bicycle is Titanium. It has fine thread 8mm bolts threaded into it at a torque around 30 foot pounds. (that is a lot).
That crank axle has been in seriously hard service for more than thirty years ! ! !

The axles in my pedals which thread into the crank arms and have ALL my weight tromping all over them every day I go to work are . . . titanium. Same age.

Ti is seriously strong stuff.
 
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