Screwed On Grips

jeffbird

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Feb 3, 2011
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I have some very well made “hard use”/hunting/survival/bushcraft type production knives in 3V by some well respected makers. I really like the knives and the blades are exceptional. They are on the pricier side of knives, yet they only bolt/screw on the grips rather than epoxying the grips on. I use them as hunting knives more than anything else. The Torx screw heads and the cracks where the grips meet the metal fill up with blood, fat, and crud that is really hard to clean the knife well afterwards. I am not calling them out, so omitting names. However, if far less expensive fixed blades can epoxy the grips on, then makers charging $100’s surely can do so.

Just a minor observation to hopefully motivate makers to make the effort to finish making the knife and not cheap out with just torx screw attachments.

Doubtless there will be some who say they want to change colors of their grips every week. Fine, make that an option and charge less for the cheap screwed together grips, but do a premium quality job attaching grips if premium prices are charged.

Not calling out names, so no photos, and yes, I sent feedback directly to the makers.
 
Some of the screw together types have some space inside to stash some survival stuff like line and a hook. It's easy enough to take out a torx screw if needed for a thorough cleaning, also there is no doubt if the epoxy was spread evenly with no gaps for foreign material intrusion.
 
Some of the screw together types have some space inside to stash some survival stuff like line and a hook. It's easy enough to take out a torx screw if needed for a thorough cleaning, also there is no doubt if the epoxy was spread evenly with no gaps for foreign material intrusion.

These are not knives with storage areas, just makers keeping production simple for CNC production pieces, bolt them together and kick them out the door.

These are in the $300 - $500 price range.

I like the 3V blades and want to keep them. So, I’ll epoxy these myself and fill in the torx heads for the full DIY finish. :):thumbsup:
 
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These are not knives with storage areas, just makers keeping production simple for CNC production pieces, bolt them together and kick them out the door.

These are in the $300 - $500 price range.

I like the 3V blades and want to keep them. So, I’ll epoxy these myself and fill in the torx heads for the full DIY finish. :):thumbsup:
Just order a David Mary David Mary and be done with it 😁
 
These are not knives with storage areas, just makers keeping production simple for CNC production pieces, bolt them together and kick them out the door.

These are in the $300 - $500 price range.

I like the 3V blades and want to keep them. So, I’ll epoxy these myself and fill in the torx heads for the full DIY finish. :):thumbsup:
Certainly no permanent harm as even epoxied scales can be removed. Give it a go and post some pictures of it when you are ready.
 
People who buy knives in this style usually want the ability to remove the grips. People who want smooth grips with no gaps tend to go for knives with rat tail tangs inside the handle, or at least sandwich style handles that are riveted on. I don't see why anyone would want handle screws with epoxy.
 
People who buy knives in this style usually want the ability to remove the grips. People who want smooth grips with no gaps tend to go for knives with rat tail tangs inside the handle, or at least sandwich style handles that are riveted on. I don't see why anyone would want handle screws with epoxy.
No one wants screws with epoxy. Most of my hunting knives are full tang with the grip slabs epoxied on and also attached with pins or corby bolts with smooth heads. None of my custom hunting knives, which are no more expensive than these CNC production knives, use screws at all.
 
I want epoxied knives to stop corrosion under the scales. I'll take screws if not so I can maintain them but prefer to epoxy and leave it.

what I dont want is unepoxied scales with irremovable tubs...i know it wouldnt be a problem in my lifetime but i cant stand the thought of red rust building up underneath.

This is a good thread to ask...does anyone know of anyone who offers services of custom scales, bolts and epoxing?
 
Epoxy is superior for that kind of work, given its bacterial resistant properties. I'd say it's better to know what you want the tool to be used for and make an informed purchase from the staggering array of options rather than demand one existing product be changed.
 
I will also add that if someone thinks screw/bolt on handles are the "quick and easy" way out to "avoid finishing the knife"......they've never tried to do it themselves.

It isn't faster and it isn't easier. Its more complicated and its more precise. It isn't necessarily better but it offers some options and solves some problems that a permanently epoxied handle can't.

Cleaning should be relatively simple with a toothbrush and some soapy water.
 
I will also add that if someone thinks screw/bolt on handles are the "quick and easy" way out to "avoid finishing the knife"......they've never tried to do it themselves.

It isn't faster and it isn't easier. Its more complicated and its more precise. It isn't necessarily better but it offers some options and solves some problems that a permanently epoxied handle can't.

Cleaning should be relatively simple with a toothbrush and some soapy water.
This is the answer here.
 
I like Cold Steel's Kraton grips. They provide good grip wet, cold or slippery when field dressing, are resistant to just about everything and are easily cleaned. No worry about gunk building up. Not as classy as stacked leather or micarta or nice wood, but they work.
 
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