Scuba diving knife

JulianHayes said:
I am not sure I can add much to the wealth of info here, but I have done a lot of diving and spent some time living on a boat. I used a titanium blade, and would not recommend it. But there are some feature that I have found useful. Having a blunt tip is a requirement for me, and my knife has a plain edge on one side with a gut hook/line cutter and serrations on the other. The serrations are useful when you have to cut through rope or kelp, but the line cutter is hopeless. Having a metal pommel is a big plus, so you can bang your tank and signal pretty well underwater if you need to. The other thing that really matters is the sheath; having clip-in retention that can hang upside down and never worry you about falling out or moving position is great. Even more than on the street, having a dive knife exactly where it should be is important to me.
But a dive knife gets beaten up. I have scraped with the tip, torn through rope, cut coconuts, etc.. so spending a ridiculous amount of money may not be the best way to go. Mora makes GREAT knives (but carbon steel and salt water might be problematic..), though I am not sure any are blunt tip. As long as you keep it very clean, 'rust-proof ' may not be necessary by any means. That said, I have hear great things about H-1 (okay I am a spydernut) and might check out their knives, but they don't have a perfect dive knife to me.
Basically, H-1, n690, or titanium might be better for rust, but if you clean your knife, it is not really a big deal. After that, some serrations, a pommel, a bright color handle, and a good sheath are my priorities. I am looking to replace my old Ti one for a dive trip this winter, and will let you know if I find the perfect model. But whatever I get, I will keep it cheap enough that if it doesn't make it home, it is not the end of the world, so long as it doesn't fail on a dive. An the type of diving matters too; If you are in a kelp forest or doing some technical diving, it might affect for your choice compared to a 50 foot open reef dive.. just my.02
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You've used a ti knife and would not recommend it, but you fail to say why!?? (No offence, but not really the way to engage in a debate, if you'll permit me to say so).
....not that you really need to tell us why; the vast majority of ti knives and not made of BETA ti, as that is notoriously hard to work and few companies do it.
Sadly, the reputation of ti knives have suffered as a result. I bet that your ti knife didnt hold an edge well and was difficult for you to sharpen.
I further more bet, it wasnt BETA ti.

Second highlight: I have a difficult time settling for a cheap knife just because its cheap and I might inadvertantly drop it and not find it again. I would gladly use my ti salt water knife for the tasks you mention. Its a hard use knife and is up to hard work with no problems what so ever.

Third and fourth highlight: Ive had a 'rust resistant' Blackie Collins design knife in my kayaking vest prior to switching to BETA ti and the 'rust resistant' knife got rust spots even though the vest and knife didnt get submerged in salt water on every outing with the kayak and even though it got rinsed with fresh water and cleaned religiously after each use and also got oiled.

So called 'stainless' knives WILL eventually develop some kind of rust - at least in my neck of the woods.

Bottom line; use what ever you want to. But this is a knife forum and we are here because we like our knives and that includes specialized knives made for a purpose and not just cheapos (I like some cheapos as well - just not for serious use around the water. Thats just me - to each his own blah, blah blah).
 
BladeScout, we get it you like Ti. The only remarkable feature about Ti is the ability to never wash it. It is out performed in cutting ability by most any other steels.

I do a lot of technical diving. Deep mix diving, cave and wreck diving, I dive. It's my opinion that a large fixed blade knife of ANY materiel is a poor choice for diving in any circumstance. They take up a lot of room, they are a snag hazard, they aren't very good for the task most divers need them for e.g. cutting line and they are typically located on a leg out of reach of the diver without bending. A thin folder will be a better slicer, they are easier to store, can be clipped off close to the body and don't present any real downsides.
 
syntaxerrorsix said:
BladeScout, we get it you like Ti.
This thread is about scuba knives. Your point?
(besides, I dont 'like' generic (read low) quality ti knives. Im how ever a fan of BETA ti knives
The only remarkable feature about Ti is the ability to never wash it.
Ti is impervious to the elements, yes. Sort of, kind of an important feature in a scuba knife around salt water.
It is out performed in cutting ability by most any other steels.
Ti will never be able to compete in the keen edge department with steel knives. Not even BETA ti will. That how ever is not the point. A BETA ti knife is a cut (sorry) above the rest of ti knives (seems I have to repeat that) and takes a fine edge and holds it well. Its no problem to sharpen BETA in my experience. In short quite contrary to most other ti knives, that most (and seemingly also you?) have handled. Again, no offence but it burns the small hairs in my ....nostrils, when people dismiss ti out of hand, when its clear that they never used BETA but only generic ti knives, which wont cut butter on a hot summer day.
For some reason, this is a controversial subject to some. I notice your "We get you like ti" comment. Seems that to the vast majority, ti is to be dismissed out of hand. But again, its a knife forum. Debate is on the menu and Im of the opinion, that ti has gotten a bad rep because knife makers use any old ti grade just to jump on the ti band wagon and move knives. Ti is not just ti - there are several grades.

I do a lot of technical diving. Deep mix diving, cave and wreck diving, I dive.
syntaxerrorsix, we get that you like diving :rolleyes:

It's my opinion that a large fixed blade knife of ANY materiel is a poor choice for diving in any circumstance.
Who mentioned large fixed blades only?
I even posted a pic of the MPU, which is a small knife.
They take up a lot of room, they are a snag hazard, they aren't very good for the task most divers need them for e.g. cutting line and they are typically located on a leg out of reach of the diver without bending. A thin folder will be a better slicer, they are easier to store, can be clipped off close to the body and don't present any real downsides.
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In my experience, sadly a lot of 'pros' dont much care about the tools of their trade unless they have a personal interest i.e. are knife afficonados in this case.
Its strange but maybe not surprising. Ive seen soldiers not knowing much about knives or firearms, though their lives depend on said tools.
But they simply were not 'into' firearms and knives like some of us here are into knives.
Same with some pro divers that I know of. One guy on an oil rig could not care less. Any old cheapo will do.
He is far more interested in talking vintage diving watches.
To each his own and all that.

As for you preferring a 'thin folder.' Thats fine, if it works for you. A folder would be my last choice, as I prefer rigid knives in the very cold waters here but thats just me (I use my knife also in the Winter time and wont fumble with trying to open a knife with cold numb fingers).

Most pro divers, that Ive seen take an interest in anything other than knives for diving (they wont bring a rigid knife let alone a folder - thin or otherwise), prefer simple cheap line cutters, simple medical shears ...or the more exotic kind of shears for cutting for example netting :D

(sorry, links only as PB is temporarily down).

http://www.k2scuba.com/product_description.php?category=4&sub_cat=83&product=496

http://www.summithut.com/products/emt-shears/

https://share.sandia.gov/news/resources/news_releases/trauma_shears/#.Ufl83oTU85s

http://lauderdalediver.com/XS-Scuba-FogCutter-X-Recon-Knife.html

Last but not least; I use my BETA ti knives for several tasks. They get used around salt water, another one is used as a hard use camp knife and I use the small MPU as a hunter/skinner. The MPU for example will zip through several deer with no noticable loss of edge. It sharpens easily and holds an edge well. Its my belief, that there are a lot of crappy ti knives out there, as most people seem to dismiss them out of hand and as not being practical knives at all. That may be so for them. Ive learned other wise through using my knives.
 
BladeScout said:
Please elaborate - why in that order (as for ti - look above)?
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Because as awesome as Ti is for a dive knife, I'd still prefer (good) steel for edge retention and ease of sharpening.

I did put Ti above many steels used in dive knives.
 
Fair enough.

For a super sharp edge, ti of course cant compete with a good steel.

Allow me to add, that I have no problem sharpening ti knives. A few minutes on a diamond stone and they are hair popping sharp (literally).
 
So regarding Ti knife blades: In what way do folks find them difficult to sharpen? Are they abrasion resistant and thus slow going? Are they softer than steel (which is what I would have guessed) and thus harder to apex? I have only ever done steel and so I have no idea what trying to sharpen other metals or ceramic would be like?

What are the challenges to sharpening Ti and what tools do you use?
 
There is a pic floating around of a commercial diver with a rig that carried 2 spyderco folding salts, I believe they were pacific salts and serrated. I do a lot of diving with just a Byrd Rescue.

My mora rusted after 2 dives but it didn't affect the edge holding, the cutting ability or the integrity of the knife. I would trust it, or even a victorinox paring knife, more than the 420 or titanium dive knives out there due to the fact that both of them will out-cut those knives and when I am tangled in a ghost gillnet or a ball of lobster trap rope I want a knife that will cut more than once.

I was clearing crab pot line out of a boat propeller in florida with the blunt tipped Blue Tang dive knife i used to carry. It dulled after one cut. I never trusted dedicated diving knives again after that. Since then I've taken whatever folder I had in my pocket, whatever knife the crew kept on the boat, or a regular non-diving fixed blade.

I work on the water every day. I spend more time on a boat than on land. I keep a diving rig on my lobster boat just in case someone calls and needs a diver while I am fishing. I used to use the latest and greatest knife but in the last 4 years I have realized that just because something is expensive and fancy doesn't make it the best tool for the job. A $10 Mora or Victorinox or Dexter Russel will oftentimes out-cut the latest Spyderco or Benchmade or Kershaw with the super steels. That is what I am using knives for 99.9% of the time. Cutting, a lot and quickly. And if they break or fall overboard or are lost or stolen, you can have a half dozen down in the forward cabin to replace them.
 
HoosierQ said:
So regarding Ti knife blades: In what way do folks find them difficult to sharpen? Are they abrasion resistant and thus slow going? Are they softer than steel (which is what I would have guessed) and thus harder to apex? I have only ever done steel and so I have no idea what trying to sharpen other metals or ceramic would be like?

What are the challenges to sharpening Ti and what tools do you use?
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Though some find ti difficult to sharpen and not able to hold a workable edge, I never had any problems.

I use a Lansky diamond sharpening set and sharpening the knives is a breeze - just as with steel knives.
 
Sorry I just revisited this thread and saw that I was asked for clarification. Indeed, the problem I have had with my titanium knife was that it did not hold an edge, but it was not a high end knife ( I think I paid 80 for it, but I don't know what BETA ti is, so I doubt it is that). When I say a ridiculous amount of money, that is subjective, I would have no trouble spending 100-150 for a good dive knife, others would prefer something cheaper or more expensive. My experience with other steels is that If I regularly dissasemble, clean and oil all steel, I have not had many issues. I hope that clarifies.

Though I doubt you will see this, I am curious what is BETA ti? and who makes your ti dive knife, I'd love to know if someone is making good blades out of ti.
 
In all honesty a dive knife serves very little purpose for the average diver. Something as simple as a Z-knife and a pair of trauma shears if wire leader is an issue where you dive is far more easy to use and carry than any of the industry standard "strapped to your leg" monstrosities.

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My Spyderco Salt folders go on my ocean dives but they get more use boatside than anything else. I carry a single Z-knife for all my caving.
 
Check out the Fox Knives Military Division's FX-SCT01B FOX STEALTH CARBON TITANIUM which is a 5.5" fixed blade knife that weighs only 4.76 oz.

A lightweight "diving and EOD knife that is 1) 100% non magnetic for mine demolition, 2) completely rust resistant and 3) a superior cutting tool. From this list of essential needs we started the development of our STEALTH blades. The blade is manufactured using an inner core blank of BETA Titanium with external layers of Carbon Fiber that are bonded together using special resins in a vacuum process. The end result is a blade that is very flexible with minimal vibration. The Titanium and Carbon Fiber are completely non-magnetic and rust resistant and are ideal components for EOD and diving purposes."

fox_stealth_carbon_titani.jpg
 
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RamZar said:
Check out the Fox Knives Military Division's FX-SCT01B FOX STEALTH CARBON TITANIUM which is a 5.5" fixed blade knife that weighs only 4.76 oz.

A lightweight "diving and EOD knife that is 1) 100% non magnetic for mine demolition, 2) completely rust resistant and 3) a superior cutting tool. From this list of essential needs we started the development of our STEALTH blades. The blade is manufactured using an inner core blank of BETA Titanium with external layers of Carbon Fiber that are bonded together using special resins in a vacuum process. The end result is a blade that is very flexible with minimal vibration. The Titanium and Carbon Fiber are completely non-magnetic and rust resistant and are ideal components for EOD and diving purposes."
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LOL

Uh, ok.
 
I've been diving since 1975 and have over 5000 dives logged. I've dove in everything from pristine crystal clear salt water to zero visibility cattle stock ponds that were very high in nearly every contaminant you can think of. Max certification achieved was Dive Instructor.

I started with the big honking 7" to 8" blades (all that was sold back then) and over time, my knives have shrunk in size. My current dive cutlery consists of 2 pair of trauma shears and 2 MacNett Dive Knives.

Trauma shears such as these are available for as little as $2 online and will cut 99% of any thing a diver will encounter, including baling wire.
Trauma Shears Yellow.jpg

The MacNett Dive Knife is 420 Stainless, has a 3 inch blade with a plain edge and a serrated edge for versatility and a blunt tip for prying. They are available for as little as $20 on line. That will cover everything that the trauma shears won't cut. Short, 3" to 4" blade knives are easier to control. Points are generally worthless. A blunt prying tip is best for scraping, wedging, prying, etc. Pointy tips can be hazardous to bouyancy equipment.
McNett Dive Knife.jpg

Any thoughts of needing a big pointy dive knife for driving off sharks is just testosterone fueled day-dreams.

I prefer bright colors for my equipment to provide increase locatability in the event the items are dropped. Black colored, "tacticool" dive knives may look good, but IMHO, are less preferred for dive equipment. High dollar knives are NOT needed or required. Even junk steel knives can be kept relatively rust free with simple maintenance that every diver receives (or should have received) during basic training.

I would rather buy 5 $20 knives over a period of years and wear them out or loose them versus 1 $100 knife. Cause I can loose 5 knives for every one of the others high dollar stuff.

Just my opinions.
 
I too have been diving for years - since 1988. I carry a NRS Pilot (420HC) with the orange handle. This is the same knife on my kayak pfd.
 
Also a long time diver- Dive Master.
My go-to is a Spyderco Pacific Salt, SE.
Don't need a knife much, so its folding blade is perfect and the clip keeps it out of the way on my sleeve.
It gets more use topside.
Have no experience with Ti, but have been happy with the Salt.
 
I've been a diver since 1971. I started out using the big US divers Sea Hawk, which is a brute of a knife heavy soft stainless. It made a good abalone iron - basically a pry bar. Knives eventually got outlawed for this purpose (abalone bleed to death if cut), so I started carrying real pry bars. After an incident where my wife got entangled in an old fishing net at 140 ft, I started carrying something sharp to cut lines, webs, nets, etc. As noted elsewhere in this thread, trauma shears are perfect - they have been a permanent part of my dive rig for about 15 years. If you also want something sharp, I carry a Spyderco Salt in H1 - also noted elsewhere. The H1 is faultless - I don't take care of it. It stays in the pocket of my buoyancy compensator when it gets rinsed. Absolutely no problems with the Salt. (Haven't really needed a sharp edge much - the trauma shears are the best bet).
 
So many divers here have recommended a shear that I'd like to ask what they think of the Leatherman Raptor which goes for about $60. The Raptor can be carried folded or in fixed position and features:

  1. 420HC Stainless Steel Folding Medical Shears
  2. Strap Cutter
  3. Ring Cutter
  4. Ruler (5 cm)
  5. Oxygen Tank Wrench
  6. Carbide Glass Breaker

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I'm asking this in combination with another thread: Looking for a water rescue knife w/ a glass breaker feature.
 
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