Sebenza 21 Edge Deformation, Second Time!

Be careful having someone at the knife store sharpen it or reprofile it. I have yet to see someone at a store know how to sharpen. They often just use a grinding wheel, which risks overheating the edge and/or leaving a significant wire edge, which would manifest itself later as rolls or chips, depending on the edge condition.
 
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Good point Don M.

I almost mentioned this, but part of me really wants to believe that there are still quite a few shops out there that can properly hone a blade;)
 
I think there are two things what did this on your Sebie.
1) Is it that the Hrc is not so high. 58-59 Hrc is the optimum for knife edge but it can do exactly that what did to you. Maybe if it have about 60 Hrc it doesn't happen but this is compromise. You may sharpen the knife on the stone in nature with 58-59 Hrc.
2) And the plywood it's not very good for cutting on it. Once I had borrow my Elmax Bushcraft knife and the man cut on plywood. The knife was so dull that I sharpened it for almost 2 hours.
I'm sorry for my English...
And belive that few words helps a little.
kotuc20
 
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Don M said:
Be careful having someone at the knife store sharpen it or reprofile it. I have yet to see someone at a store know how to sharpen. They often just use a grinding wheel, which risks overheating the edge and/or leaving a significant wire edge, which would manifest itself later as rolls or chips, depending on the edge condition.
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This!

How a knife is sharpened can dramatically affect its performance. Far more than people want to believe.
 
S35VN doesn't have the apex stability that some other steels have, but regardless of what steel you use to cut abrasive things, it's going to dull. You'll notice flat spots when it gets really dull. How quickly it happens and what caused it to happen are the things you might try to keep looking for.
 
Don M said:
Be careful having someone at the knife store sharpen it or reprofile it. I have yet to see someone at a store know how to sharpen. They often just use a grinding wheel, which risks overheating the edge and/or leaving a significant wire edge, which would manifest itself later as rolls or chips, depending on the edge condition.
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Yes, I'm aware of sharpening with powertools. The shop that sharpened mine used a whetstone wheel which probably only rotated at 150RPM's. Plus the store manager knew me, and too extra care when sharpening my knife because she knew how much it was worth. She was actually the one who restored the edge after the factory edge had rolled the first time.
 
Sorry to hear about your edge. Blade damage can occur on certain materials, thats a given....................I have cut tar paper and shingles ( the backs of them ) with my umnumzaan and had no edge damage. The blade was scratched and it was duller than when I started out, but no damage or rolling of any kind.....................I for one always keep a blade edge as close to factory as possible. I ONLY use the sharpmaker to sharpen my CRK. I have sebenzas that I have sharpened for years and you would hardly know it because I do no go to town on it, do not mess with micro bevels, no stropping, none of the fancy schmancy stuff people like to do. I just lightly touch them up, over and over. I have carried my 25 for 2 years now and the edge could almost pass for factory. Chris Reeve knows more about blade steel and blade edge geometry than any of us ever will. I keep mine as close to original as possible and how they were designed. I have had No Problems. Keep it as close to original as possible, thats my advise. Just my 2 cents.
 
I use a Sharpmaker to maintain all my knives as well, and I currently have 7 CRKs of different models. I'm glad to have read this thread.

I knew cardboard can have some nasty stuff in it, I never knew that cutting tar paper or on plywood was particularly hard on knife edges and would have done it myself. Especially cutting with plywood underneath what I was cutting, I'd have done that without hesitating.

I'll keep that in mind when carrying one of the CRKs.
 
nyefmaker said:
Sorry to hear about your edge. Blade damage can occur on certain materials, thats a given....................I have cut tar paper and shingles ( the backs of them ) with my umnumzaan and had no edge damage. The blade was scratched and it was duller than when I started out, but no damage or rolling of any kind.....................I for one always keep a blade edge as close to factory as possible. I ONLY use the sharpmaker to sharpen my CRK. I have sebenzas that I have sharpened for years and you would hardly know it because I do no go to town on it, do not mess with micro bevels, no stropping, none of the fancy schmancy stuff people like to do. I just lightly touch them up, over and over. I have carried my 25 for 2 years now and the edge could almost pass for factory. Chris Reeve knows more about blade steel and blade edge geometry than any of us ever will. I keep mine as close to original as possible and how they were designed. I have had No Problems. Keep it as close to original as possible, thats my advise. Just my 2 cents.
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I agree. I keep the factory edges and just touch up as needed. Try not to let them get butter knife dull and use them as intended. No problems ever.
 
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