Sebenza 25 lock stick

That makes perfect sense Cody. You probably nailed it there. I'd buy your thoughts way before I buy my conspiracy theory.



and.... um.... well.... I'll shut up now....
 
That to me looks like it happened after a session of batoning wood or trees. If you hit the top of the blade with a stick the lockface its going to go into the ceramic detent ball and ceramic is harder than steel so the lockface is gonna give. I had a 25 micarta that had a thick track to the 70% of the lockface. The ball is definitely capable of a divot like that if the spines been whacked. Ive batoned fixed blades but not a folder always concerned about failure. Folders arent meant to be batoned obviously but you gotta do what you gotta do sometimes in a pinch haha. Looks like if OP wants it back to normal send it in or I dunno what would be needed to make a proper track but thats lookin like its not going away without some work on it.
 
Looks like the spine has been whacked pretty hard to leave a crater of a divot like that.
 
kidcongo said:
My 25 has seen "real work" as well. It has a definite track to where the ball stops, and what you might call a slight divot. Nothing pronounced like that.

My best guess is the thicker-than-normal (or so it appears to me) aftermarket scale is preventing the pivot from screwing in all the way, or maybe from being held firmly. Also, the factory bevel on the back of the pivot screw precisely matched the factory bevel on the slab. I could see that if there is any mismatch, it could introduce play in this assembly. This play may be almost unnoticeable, but create a situation that as the knife is opened, the ball sips off the end of the tang, takes up the slight slack in the assembly, than slams back into the tang, creating the divot.

I would sand the divot flush, with very fine sandpaper, and swap out the CF scale and see if the problem comes back. Or just live with it. Might be the price you pay if you like that scale.

Just my two bits.
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Sanding the lockface of the blade is a horrible, horrible idea. Any material removed is going to greatly affect the lockup, and any change in angle would wreak havoc with lockup, too. CRK uses a machine to cut the blades lockface to an exact fit for every single folder that leaves the shop. The difference between good lockup and bad lockup is like a couple of thousandths. Sanding it will make it lock up deeper, and might cause worse stick, or even lock slip.

The only course of action is to send it in.
 
And take that damn scale off, LOL. It's too thick, it looks goofy as hell, and there is no way that it is built to CRK (.0005) specs.
 
Tripton said:
Sanding the lockface of the blade is a horrible, horrible idea. Any material removed is going to greatly affect the lockup, and any change in angle would wreak havoc with lockup, too. CRK uses a machine to cut the blades lockface to an exact fit for every single folder that leaves the shop. The difference between good lockup and bad lockup is like a couple of thousandths. Sanding it will make it lock up deeper, and might cause worse stick, or even lock slip.

The only course of action is to send it in.
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I was only suggesting to sand the ridge of the divot away, not the entire face, but whatever. In the Blade HQ video you can see the guy free-hand tweaking the lock-face using a brown Spyderco rod. There seems to be some forgiveness in this area if you are careful and go slow. In fact a spyderco rod might be the right tool to smooth that divot out. I wouldn't worry about doing that myself, but if you want to send it in, go for it.
 
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I just checked my 25 and have nothing like that detent. Will be interesting to see how this plays out...;-)
 
Tripton said:
And take that damn scale off, LOL. It's too thick, it looks goofy as hell, and there is no way that it is built to CRK (.0005) specs.
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:thumbup::thumbup: Amen. What he said. I think CRK will sell a ti scale if you don't have the original.

kidcongo said:
I was only suggesting to sand the ridge of the divot away, not the entire face.
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Regardless of what made it this way, if there is no blade play and it were my knife, I'd do this.

I would send a picture to CRK and get their opinion. If they say they will fix it for free or at low cost, I'd send it in.

Who am I kidding?? Because the risk of further damage appears low, I'd try to go very SLOW and only take the sharp edge off of the divot where the ball falls in and out (make the transition smooth). I'd use a spyderco sharpmaker rod or something else non-aggressive. I wouldn't remove any of the face at all or make the divot any deeper. You should be able to get the stick out. Just think, the lockup on that knife will be solid as all hell. The problems that I perhaps see developing over time is wear on the the divot or the ball (??). Play could develop some day. How likely that is, I have no idea. Probably wouldn't happen anytime soon.

Disclaimer: I am not an expert by means. I just tinker and pretend understand how things work.
 
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Do not mess with the lock face, the line between joy and sadness there is a very thin one. :)
 
If indeed the CF scale is thicker than factory, as Cody stated, that could be the culprit. I've got a after market scale that was made by Barry H. It's been on my 25 for a little over a year and I see no divot at all on mine.
Here's what I suspect, if the scale is thicker, even though you can tighten it and it not slip, there still may be play in the pivot threads. Most screws I've dealt with are tapered toward the end and you can tight it down but it still has play between the male and female threads. I'm not a machinist, but I have had discussions with some where I work and they have stated that some screws/bolts are critical for a piece of equipment and they will not alter what factory specs call for.

So, the divot is being caused from the use of the knife when pressure is being applied to the blade from everyday use and causing enough play to create the divot

Here's what else I would guess, you replaced the factory scale fairly early when you first got the knife and have been using it every sense. I'm guessing this because the divot looks like it's at about 30/35%, that's what mine was when I first got it, then it moved to about 50% and has settled there
 
kidcongo said:
I was only suggesting to sand the ridge of the divot away, not the entire face, but whatever. In the Blade HQ video you can see the guy free-hand tweaking the lack-face using a brown Spyderco rod. There seems to be some forgiveness in this area if you are careful and go slow. In fact a spyderco rod might be the right tool to smooth that divot out. I wouldn't worry about doing that myself, but if you want to send it in, go for it.
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He isn't tweaking the angle, he is cleaning up any burrs around the edges left by the machine that cuts the angle.

And HE knows what he is doing.
 
Tripton said:
He isn't tweaking the angle, he is cleaning up any burrs around the edges left by the machine that cuts the angle.

And HE knows what he is doing.
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Again, I am not suggesting anyone tweak any angles, or remove the surface of the lock-face , just use the rod or sandpaper to take the smallest of amounts off the edge of that divot, just like the fellow at CRK is doing in the video with cleaning up the burs.

I don't think it's rocket science, nor do I think CRK is going to wave a magic wand the average joe doesn't possess, but that's just my opinion, and the way I personally look at problems like this. I don't suggest that anyone subscribe to my point of view, but do encourage all folk to realize we often have the capabilities to solve simple problems for ourselves if we just go slow and take our time, and think about what we are doing, and the nature of the issue. It's what separates us from Gorillas after all, and what made Chris Reeve decide he was going to make a knife in the first place. But, like most said, it's safer to send it in and have them do it for you.
 
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It's not the scale, 100%. As I switch off between this scale and factory one. I've also never batonned this knife. I'm not modifying the lock face of the tang, or any other mechanical part of the knife.
 
Oh and to answer some of the realistic questions: no, there's no blade play in any direction.
 
Bcamos said:
Oh and to answer some of the realistic questions: no, there's no blade play in any direction.
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Do you think it has anything to do with using your CRK without the rear handle screw on the presentation side?
 
91bravo said:
Do you think it has anything to do with using your CRK without the rear handle screw on the presentation side?
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Jonny, now that's an actual possibility. Not sure if that's the cause but I suppose it could have led to some tweaking of things.
 
kidcongo said:
Again, I am not suggesting anyone tweak any angles, or remove the surface of the lock-face , just use the rod or sandpaper to take the smallest of amounts off the edge of that divot, just like the fellow at CRK is doing in the video with cleaning up the burs.

I don't think it's rocket science, nor do I think CRK is going to wave a magic wand the average joe doesn't possess, but that's just my opinion, and the way I personally look at problems like this. I don't suggest that anyone subscribe to my point of view, but do encourage all folk to realize we often have the capabilities to solve simple problems for ourselves if we just go slow and take our time, and think about what we are doing, and the nature of the issue. It's what separates us from Gorillas after all, and what made Chris Reeve decide he was going to make a knife in the first place. But, like most said, it's safer to send it in and have them do it for you.
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Sure. If you feel comfortable doing it, by all means go ahead.

Just don't expect the warranty to be intact after someone dicks around with the lockup.
 
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