Sebenza question

Joined
Jun 8, 2004
Messages
36
First off, I just received a brand new small classic sebenza. This is not my first sebenza. I owned, then sold a small regular about two years ago. I know that the pivot area is well lubricated prior to shipping. However, the one I received in comparison to the one I owned in the past is relatively difficult to open. From what I can recollect, my small regular sebbie did not require any breaking in and the action was smooth from the get go. Should I dismantle my small classic and add even more lubrication or do you think that it will require a few days of breaking in. Any feedback would be much appreciated.
 
Id say you need to break it in. It does take a couple of cycles to get smoother.
At least thats what Ive experienced on my large Classic, that Ive bought a couple of months ago. And from what Ive read here, its quite normal.

That being said, if its a mint knife, Id not take it apart and add lube. Open and close it repeatedly-that will do the trick...... . :)
 
I got a brand new small regular a month ago, and my impressions were that the knife was lubricated, but not very well at all. I took it apart after 2 days, mainly because I wanted to see how it disassembles, and when I put it back together I used some Tuff Glide lubricant on the washers. After that, it was 10 times smoother and easier to open. I suggest you do the same.
 
I have several Sebenzas. I've gotten ones, brand new, that were very smooth to open and close and others that were not as smooth. I just always break them down, add some more lube, and put them back together. Usually does the trick.

jprice
 
AIeee! this should be a sticky.

Often new they are scratchy, I have a brand new mammoth inlay that was/is scratchy. Usually I find there is a little grit in there even when new. I brought it up to CRK at blade last year.

Also be aware that CRK puts pocket clips on now that put alot of pressure on the lock bar.

I reccomend:

- check pocket clip for tightness, remove and bend out.
- take apart and wipe out all old lube.
- Relube with either crk grease or militec.
- optional polish the washers a bit with flitz to speed break in.
 
I recommend as said polishing the washers, lubing, and cycling. It will break in fast.
 
I still don't understand the break in period. My old sebbies (5-7 years ago) were great right out of the box. My latest ones from a year or 2 ago needed to be cycled many MANY times to be where they should, about 100 hundred or so. I wonder what the reasons are.
 
I still don't understand the break in period. My old sebbies (5-7 years ago) were great right out of the box. My latest ones from a year or 2 ago needed to be cycled many MANY times to be where they should, about 100 hundred or so. I wonder what the reasons are.

I would 2nd that. All of the older BG42 Sebenzas I've recieved, including NIB Sebbies are extremely smooth. The newer ones I recieve, sometime yes...sometimes not so smooth. Did CRK make a change to the lube they use at some point in time?
 
I am going to say it may be affected by the difference in washer sizes and that S30V is much more wear resistant than BG-42.
 
AIeee! this should be a sticky.

Often new they are scratchy, I have a brand new mammoth inlay that was/is scratchy. Usually I find there is a little grit in there even when new. I brought it up to CRK at blade last year.

Also be aware that CRK puts pocket clips on now that put alot of pressure on the lock bar.

I reccomend:

- check pocket clip for tightness, remove and bend out.
- take apart and wipe out all old lube.
- Relube with either crk grease or militec.
- optional polish the washers a bit with flitz to speed break in.

yes, this should be a sticky:thumbup: and your advise is 100% accurate!:thumbup:
 
Hey guys...so I dismantled and cleaned my sebenza, then I re-lubricated everything. When I re-assembled the knife, the action was still rough with no improvement in smoothness. After that, I bent out the clip as DaveH suggested. This improved the action a bit, but not significantly enough. So, as a last ditch effort, I expounded on DaveH's idea and I bent out the actual lockbar. This made a world of a difference! I had no reservations about "over bending" the lock bar because of the springy nature of titanium. Based on my observations, there have been no adverse effects of bending out the lock bar. The lock bar is still in contact with about 40-45% of the blade tang....and of course the action is now incredibly smooth. Thank you all for your feedback and suggestions!
 
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