Sebenza Sharpening Question

[uofaengr]

Funny looking thumb stud on that Seb

I think it's the angle it was taken, but it's a standard blue with some ano naturally rubbed off.

 

[TripleF100]

Lot's of really great ideas and suggestions here! Thanks everyone! I think I am going to hold off on the WE, EP, KME etc. for at least awhile and try some of these suggestions!

 

[338375]

My wife bought me a Work Sharp for Christmas a couple years ago. She thought I would have fun with it.
No disrespect to Ken Onion, the man is a very talented designer, but that thing was a terrible design...
The concept is fine, but the guide system is really lacking. One you get to a certain point, towards the end of the blade, it looses support, and
the potential for rounding off the tip is very real. I know some people can get good results with it, but I think for most people in general, it's
not a good system. Me included...

It might take a little practice, but at least with stropping ,you don't stand the chance of removing to much metal, and ruining an edge...

 

[kidcongo]

[SUB][/SUB]

Funny looking thumb stud on that Seb

Off topic, but I agree. Plunge grind is forward of the end of the slabs and possibly has torx screws. The OP of that photo might want to seek some advice and post more pics. Hard to tell, but maybe a knock-off.

 

[mlamb]

I like to keep it simple and fast. I use a Benchmade Sharpener and a strop. Works great for a good work edge.

 

[Tripton]

Why are the fancy Wicked Edge and Edge Pros applied edges ruining the knife by removing too much metal? Can you explain what you mean?

To me an edge that looks like a factory edge means it is at least 17-20 degrees per side dull (34-40 inclusive, sometimes 50), so very dangerous to use, no matter how well it shaves. An edge that looks "factory" is often the worst thing you can have on a knife...

Gaston

Yeah! What the hell does Chris Reeve know about edges??

 

[uofaengr]

[SUB][/SUB]

Off topic, but I agree. Plunge grind is forward of the end of the slabs and possibly has torx screws. The OP of that photo might want to seek some advice and post more pics. Hard to tell, but maybe a knock-off.

I bought it at my local CRK dealer, not eBay.

The plunge grind looks like that somewhat because it was taken at an angle. It doesn't swoop as much as my large but the edge of the plunge is just past the slab. My small is the oldest of my CRKs made in 2012.



Uh oh, gotta be careful. The lighting in that pic halfway makes it look like the stud is hexagonal.

And with some ano rubbed off at an angle.........



Some things I did notice between my 2012 small 21 and 2015 small micarta Insingo since I've never compared them before. The 2012 small has wider jimping identical to my 2013 large 21 while the Insingo jimping is smoother and closer together. And the back side of the stud is kind of the plain machined blue like older CRKs I've had while the rear of the 2015 stud is stepped inward like the lanyard pin. Never noticed these little nuances but interesting nonetheless.

Did an image search on 2012 Sebenzas and found this thread:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ebenza-seem-gigantic-after-carrying-the-small
The small 21 here has the exact same plunge grind as mine. Another interesting nuance.

Found an old stock photo of small and large 21 with less than swoopy plunge grinds.



Sorry for getting way OT, but looks like plunge grinds have evolved over time along with jimping, back sides of thumb studs, hardware, etc.

 

[Steel_Addiction]

I dont think you can lump all sharpening systems into the same category.

It has about 95% to do with skill.

All my edges are done on an edge pro and have yet to wreck an edge. I know exactly what you are talking about thiugh where the tip is sharpened about a 1/4 vs the belly around 1/16th an inch.

I just did this one the other night. Perfect semetrical bevel same distance from bevel to edge from tip to heel to belly. Takes skill you have to rotate the blade on the table you cant just set it in a fixed position and go to town.

 

[kidcongo]

I bought it at my local CRK dealer, not eBay.

The plunge grind looks like that somewhat because it was taken at an angle. It doesn't swoop as much as my large but the edge of the plunge is just past the slab. My small is the oldest of my CRKs made in 2012.



Uh oh, gotta be careful. The lighting in that pic halfway makes it look like the stud is hexagonal.

And with some ano rubbed off at an angle.........



Some things I did notice between my 2012 small 21 and 2015 small micarta Insingo since I've never compared them before. The 2012 small has wider jimping identical to my 2013 large 21 while the Insingo jimping is smoother and closer together. And the back side of the stud is kind of the plain machined blue like older CRKs I've had while the rear of the 2015 stud is stepped inward like the lanyard pin. Never noticed these little nuances but interesting nonetheless.

Did an image search on 2012 Sebenzas and found this thread:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ebenza-seem-gigantic-after-carrying-the-small
The small 21 here has the exact same plunge grind as mine. Another interesting nuance.

Found an old stock photo of small and large 21 with less than swoopy plunge grinds.



Sorry for getting way OT, but looks like plunge grinds have evolved over time along with jimping, back sides of thumb studs, hardware, etc.

Clearly legit, just looked weird in that photo. Thanks for posting the additional info. Cool knives of course.

 

[uofaengr]

I dont think you can lump all sharpening systems into the same category.

It has about 95% to do with skill.

All my edges are done on an edge pro and have yet to wreck an edge. I know exactly what you are talking about thiugh where the tip is sharpened about a 1/4 vs the belly around 1/16th an inch.

I just did this one the other night. Perfect semetrical bevel same distance from bevel to edge from tip to heel to belly. Takes skill you have to rotate the blade on the table you cant just set it in a fixed position and go to town.

Funny looking stud you have. Apparently only knockoffs are capable of taking a symmetrical bevel on a fancy guided system. I kid of course. Great job mate.

Congrats on post 1000 btw.

 

[uofaengr]

Clearly legit, just looked weird in that photo. Thanks for posting the additional info. Cool knives of course.

No problem. I learned some things as well. Interesting the small design changes from year to year. I'd rather have that 2012 jimping though.

 

[Steel_Addiction]

Its legit angle is just strange. All my sebs are semetrical on the edge pro.

*edit*

Har har i get it now. I missed page 3 of this thread for some reason tapatalk was omitting it...[emoji5]

 

[uofaengr]

Its legit angle is just strange. All my sebs are semetrical on the edge pro.

Just messing with you, bud. All mine plus my Hinderers and Striders are symmetrical on the Wicked Edge too. I recommend a lot of practice and some experience before tackling higher end knives on these systems. You can't put steel back...

 

[nyefmaker]

Just messing with you, bud. All mine plus my Hinderers and Striders are symmetrical on the Wicked Edge too. I recommend a lot of practice and some experience before tackling higher end knives on these systems. You can't put steel back...

Some of you with great skill can make such systems work, while I have seen far too many like this pic I am enclosing. That's what I referred to in my comment of thinning out the shoulders and such systems ruining edges.



Glad to see people like Steel Addiction make them work.

 

[lemmuhj]

I use a Sharpmaker and strop...thats it. Im with Nyfemaker, MOST pics of Sebs on a guided system look horrible, horrible enough to keep me away. I would never use one on my knives unless i had a ton of practice. Steel Addictions Seb would be my goal.