Sebenza Washers

Reeper22

Reeper22

Joined
Nov 3, 2009
Messages
630
When reassembling a Sebenza, does it matter which side of the washer makes contact with the tang and which side with the scales?
 
No not really. The big thing is when you have finished breaking in the knife and you flip the washers over they wont be that smooth because that side has not been broken in yet. Wont affect the functionality of the knife at all.
 
I always keep the shinny worn side on the tang. It has worn that way next to the tang and I keep it that way. If you switch, it will not be as smooth as "marthinas" stated. But to answer your question, not it really doesnt matter.
 
nyefmaker said:
I always keep the shinny worn side on the tang. It has worn that way next to the tang and I keep it that way. If you switch, it will not be as smooth as "marthinas" stated. But to answer your question, not it really doesnt matter.
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My washers touching the scale are more shiny then that touching the knife. I will see if I can get photos in the near future. Will be interested in hearing your opinion. I realised something else through the year of constant edc and sometime dissemble of the knife that the blade becomes 'polished' and the stone wash becomes like a mirror under the washers. Think its kinda cool. Like hidden user marks. :p
 
marthinus said:
My washers touching the scale are more shiny then that touching the knife. I will see if I can get photos in the near future. Will be interested in hearing your opinion. I realised something else through the year of constant edc and sometime dissemble of the knife that the blade becomes 'polished' and the stone wash becomes like a mirror under the washers. Think its kinda cool. Like hidden user marks. :p
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When I got my first sebenza and took it apart, I read where people stated the washers had to go back on the way they came off because the knife wore them that way !!! Does this really hold water, probably not, but I have found myself doing it that way for reasons I think make sense. When I clean my washers, I lay them flat down on a papertowel and rub them back and forth keeping them perfectly flat all the while. This cleans them very well removing all the dirt, lint, corosion form the bronze, etc. One side is always dull and gritty(scale side), while the other side is always polished from the blade tang(tang side). I personally like to put the gritty side against the slabs as I feel the grittiness helps hold the washer to the scales better. The other polished side ( the side with the circular rings from rubbing against the tang ) remain against the blade as I feel they have worn that way. ...... This is stricely a personal preference as it has worked great for me over the couple years I have had sebenzas and is what I practice.
 
nyefmaker said:
When I got my first sebenza and took it apart, I read where people stated the washers had to go back on the way they came off because the knife wore them that way !!! Does this really hold water, probably not, but I have found myself doing it that way for reasons I think make sense. When I clean my washers, I lay them flat down on a papertowel and rub them back and forth keeping them perfectly flat all the while. This cleans them very well removing all the dirt, lint, corosion form the bronze, etc. One side is always dull and gritty(scale side), while the other side is always polished from the blade tang(tang side). I personally like to put the gritty side against the slabs as I feel the grittiness helps hold the washer to the scales better. The other polished side ( the side with the circular rings from rubbing against the tang ) remain against the blade as I feel they have worn that way. ...... This is stricely a personal preference as it has worked great for me over the couple years I have had sebenzas and is what I practice.
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I would have loved to discuss this further with some photos of my seb but bad news from me:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=731228
 
The reason I took mine apart was because it was difficult/impossible to thumb flick it open or get the blade out quickly. I noticed the birth certificate was a year old and thought it could use some new lube. I used some Tuff-Glide but when I reassembled it, I wasn't sure which side of the washers actually rub. So, I put them in backwards when I reassembled and it was even worse. I took them out and flipped them and success-fast deploying/flickable blade.

Quick question: When lining up the hole in the tang with the hole in the scales to insert the pivot pin, it takes me literally forever. I look at it under light and it looks lined up but then the pin won't go through. Does anyone have any methods or tricks for doing this that could reduce that time?
 
Reeper22 said:
Quick question: When lining up the hole in the tang with the hole in the scales to insert the pivot pin, it takes me literally forever. I look at it under light and it looks lined up but then the pin won't go through. Does anyone have any methods or tricks for doing this that could reduce that time?
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Use the allen key by pushing it through the hole and moving it around in the circle of the pivot hole and bushing. That has worked for me.
 
nyefmaker said:
When I got my first sebenza and took it apart, I read where people stated the washers had to go back on the way they came off because the knife wore them that way !!! Does this really hold water, probably not, but I have found myself doing it that way for reasons I think make sense. When I clean my washers, I lay them flat down on a papertowel and rub them back and forth keeping them perfectly flat all the while. This cleans them very well removing all the dirt, lint, corosion form the bronze, etc. One side is always dull and gritty(scale side), while the other side is always polished from the blade tang(tang side). I personally like to put the gritty side against the slabs as I feel the grittiness helps hold the washer to the scales better. The other polished side ( the side with the circular rings from rubbing against the tang ) remain against the blade as I feel they have worn that way. ...... This is stricely a personal preference as it has worked great for me over the couple years I have had sebenzas and is what I practice.
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Tom,
You hit the nail on the head
My large & small that I carry are slicker than snot & I do it your way
My small was shipped dry with no grease and I must of had it apart 6 times
and could not get it smooth, It was jerky on opening. I flat sanded the washers on the tang side with 400 & 600 paper on the table going one way only till the were shinny & all one color. From being dry from the factory they were warped a little. It flicks open like butter now........................
That's my story & Im stickin to It :yawn::yawn::yawn: Rick :yawn::yawn::yawn:
 
What kind of lube are you guys using? I used Tuf-Glide. When I first reassembled it was working very well but the next day when it dried, the action was stiff again. Should I just stick with Tuff-Glide and wait for the washer break in or changed lubes?
 
I use Only: "Chris Reeve Knives Fluorinated Grease. Specially formulated for use on all high friction areas of precision folding knives and guns, i.e., pivot bearings, locking bars and slides. Comes with rotating cap to seal tube and prevent leakage." :)
 
Tuf Glide does not work well on the Sebenza. you need a thicker grease. The knife should open smoothly without any washer break in necessary, which it does with the CRK grease.
 
Damn, I was hoping not to fork over the money for the CR Grease but I guess I'm going to have to.

Can anyone else testify to their experiences with Sebenzas and different lubes?
 
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I use BreakFree CLP as I have a bunch of it because I use it on all my guns. I was actually surprised how well it worked because it is lightweight and other lightweight oils I tried were not the greatest and I thought I might have to spring for the CRK grease.
 
nyefmaker said:
I use Only: "Chris Reeve Knives Fluorinated Grease. Specially formulated for use on all high friction areas of precision folding knives and guns, i.e., pivot bearings, locking bars and slides. Comes with rotating cap to seal tube and prevent leakage." :)
Click to expand...

I resisted briefly and then tried it. It's really the best, and the applicator is also the best. I've started using it in other knives with great results. :thumbup:
 
pjmaxm said:
I use BreakFree CLP as I have a bunch of it because I use it on all my guns. I was actually surprised how well it worked because it is lightweight and other lightweight oils I tried were not the greatest and I thought I might have to spring for the CRK grease.
Click to expand...

I tried breakfree and the action went from smooth as butter to feeling like it was full of jam. Seriously it was pretty nasty. I was surprised at how poorly it did. I just use plain old mineral oil and honestly it works well. I may have to clean it a little more but we're talking a few times a year rather than once a year. Not a big deal to me and I know it's food safe. And yes it is my daily carry.
 
I get the best results with Phil's Tenacious Oil, available at some bicycle shops. It's thick and sticky (hence Tenacious), and lasts a long time. It gives the action a smooth "hydrolic" feel. I like it better than CRK grease, and its a lot cheaper.

As far as not being able to flick it open, that's because they come tight and you can either wait for it to break in, or speed the process by polishing the washers. I've always been content to let mine break in. I never had a need to flick mine open other than when I reassemble.
 
since i dont have the CRK grease, yet :D , i use what i have lying around, first off the more viscous the better, and second the lube i used was bicycle chain stuff, works great, but i doubt it can hold a candle to the CRK stuff. still a good interim lubricant.
 
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