Very interesting. My I'll try your style of assembly when my CRK grease comes on Tuesday. Anyone else reassemble their Sebenzas like this?
To be clear, the CRK method is this:
http://www.chrisreeve.com/sebenzaclean.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6jd_y-p5Qs
I assume this is what you currently do, and this is what I do
not like.
I prefer the traditional method of stripping knives, which works for most linerlocks and framelocks, and which is this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZETWJk4T4GI
It's not a very good video, as the user takes forever to ramble on about a whole bunch of crap you don't need to know, but you get an idea of the disassembly process starting around 6:30.
Here's an in-depth description of my process. Keep in mind this works best if you have already REVERSED your screws, so that the screw heads are on the locking side and the polished heads are on the front side. I feel that this is a better way to run the Seb, and it looks nicer. These instructions will not quite work if you have not reversed your screws.
1. Lay the knife down, with the blade locked open. Front scale is face down, locking scale is face up. Edge of blade should be facing away from you.
2. Remove all three screws in this order: Backspacer screw first, then stop pin screw, then pivot screw. Set them aside- no need to remember which is which, they are interchangeable.
3. Gently wobble the locking scale until it "pops" away from the rest of the knife. Set it aside.
4. Lift the blade off the pivot pin, being careful to keep the washers still attached. Remove the washers and set them aside, with the blade side facing up. The pivot bushing may come out with the blade; if so, remove it and set it aside.
5. Lift off all screw sleeves (including pivot bushing, if it has not already come out) and set them aside. Remember which is which, although if you forget: backspacer is thickest, stop pin is thinnest, pivot bushing is in between.
6. At this point you should be looking at the back of the front scale, which still has the three screws attached. Leave it this way, there is no need to go any further.
Now you can clean all the parts. I like to use a cotton swab and naptha lighter fluid (the kind used for Zippo lighters, common brands are Zippo and Ronsonol). You can also just wipe down all the parts with a clean rag and water. Keep track of which side of the washer faces the blade and which side faces the scale. The washers should be stationary against the scale when the blade is opened and closed, so only the blade side will show any significant wear. The wear pattern will contribute to a smoother blade action, so you want to always reassemble the knife with the correct side facing the blade.
With clean parts, here's how you should lube and reassemble:
1. Drop all sleeves and bushings onto the pins.
2. Drop the larger washer onto the scale, over the pivot screw and pivot bushing. Scale side should be against the scale, blade side should be facing up. Place a small amount of lube (I prefer Hoppe's No. 9 Lubricating Oil) on the BLADE SIDE ONLY.
3. Place a small amount of lube inside the blade pivot area. Drop the blade over the pivot onto the large washer. Place a small amount of lube on the area of the blade tang where you can see the outline of the small washer.
4. Drop the small washer onto the blade tang, blade side against the blade and scale side facing up. DO NOT LUBRICATE the scale side.
5. On the locking scale, place a small drop of lubricant on the ball on the heat-treated portion of the lockbar.
6. With the blade still in the open position, fit the locking scale onto the knife, making sure all pins are aligned. You will feel the scale "snap" into place as all the pins slide into their holes and the lockbar contact face slides behind the blade tang.
7. Insert and screw down all three screws. There is no risk of overtightening- you may fully tighten all screws, including the pivot screw. The pivot bushing maintains proper tolerances regardless of screw tightness.
8. Release the lockbar and close the knife. Place a small drop of lube on the blade tang where it contacts the lockbar.
Assembly is now complete. At this point you should give the knife a solid (but not overly aggressive) wrist-flick, which will "bump" all the parts into place and ensure solid lockup and smooth action. This is explicitly recommended by Chris Reeve and will NOT void your warranty.
