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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Second Annual Pay it Forward Buildoff
- Thread starter Lorien
- Start date
- Joined
- May 7, 2010
- Messages
- 1,066
8 Months? Good amount of lead time!
My dad has worked closely with a local food bank for over 10 years now, and as of the last year they have been month to month with food supplies and cash flow. I have volunteered at several of their events and at the food bank warehouse to help sort goods. There are many wonderful people who donate their time there, and I really want to help out in any way I can.
I will make design #3, and donate the proceeds from its sale directly to this food bank.
Good stuff guys! Can't wait to see everyone's work come together =)
My dad has worked closely with a local food bank for over 10 years now, and as of the last year they have been month to month with food supplies and cash flow. I have volunteered at several of their events and at the food bank warehouse to help sort goods. There are many wonderful people who donate their time there, and I really want to help out in any way I can.
I will make design #3, and donate the proceeds from its sale directly to this food bank.
Good stuff guys! Can't wait to see everyone's work come together =)
Started my knife this afternoon. It's 7" overall, out of 1/8" 1084.
layout on the steel:
profile is roughed out:
I modified the design a little bit from Lorien's original to make it a little bit more comfortable in my hand and a little bit more my style. It's going to get a cord wrapped handle with fiberoptic menuki.
I liked Stacy's idea about giving the knife to a local boyscout troop for their next eaglescout, but this isn't really a boyscout knife (also they don't allow fixed blades). On the same theme, though, one idea I'm considering is to give it to a local martial arts school for the next blackbelt.
- Chris
layout on the steel:
profile is roughed out:
I modified the design a little bit from Lorien's original to make it a little bit more comfortable in my hand and a little bit more my style. It's going to get a cord wrapped handle with fiberoptic menuki.
I liked Stacy's idea about giving the knife to a local boyscout troop for their next eaglescout, but this isn't really a boyscout knife (also they don't allow fixed blades). On the same theme, though, one idea I'm considering is to give it to a local martial arts school for the next blackbelt.
- Chris
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2011
- Messages
- 74
Lorein, this is taking off nicely now. Good to see!
Anyway, I have decided I'll be doing number 2. Like Hesparus I have made a few very minor changes to the original design and the knife ended up 7.5" tip to tip in a straight line. I have built a quick prototype but I will do a small WIP once I start the proper knife - just wanting to finalize the choice of materials for myself.
Anyway, I have decided I'll be doing number 2. Like Hesparus I have made a few very minor changes to the original design and the knife ended up 7.5" tip to tip in a straight line. I have built a quick prototype but I will do a small WIP once I start the proper knife - just wanting to finalize the choice of materials for myself.
Although I didn't use any of the patterns supplied, here is one of two that I am giving to a buisiness ownere in exchange for the purchase of a new marching snare for our school's drumline. I profited nothing on this or the other one still in works.
More pictures and information can be found here http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/985544-Knife-Display-Stand
More pictures and information can be found here http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/985544-Knife-Display-Stand
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2012
- Messages
- 30
Hello All
I have been approved as a fund raiser for the Wounded Warriors Project.
I have set up link on the Wounded Warriors Project fundraising website. My goal is to raise $2500.
The highest donation will win the 2nd annual knife build off and I will ship the a custom made knife to you. All other donations will go to the wounded warriors project. All donations are appreciated.
Please click on the link below for instructions an donations
Semper Fi
John
WOUNDED WARRIORS PROJECT FUND RAISER
3 RIVER BLADES YOUTUBE
3 RIVER BLADES WEBSITE
I have been approved as a fund raiser for the Wounded Warriors Project.
I have set up link on the Wounded Warriors Project fundraising website. My goal is to raise $2500.
The highest donation will win the 2nd annual knife build off and I will ship the a custom made knife to you. All other donations will go to the wounded warriors project. All donations are appreciated.
Please click on the link below for instructions an donations
Semper Fi
John
WOUNDED WARRIORS PROJECT FUND RAISER
3 RIVER BLADES YOUTUBE
3 RIVER BLADES WEBSITE
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2005
- Messages
- 27,860
Hey guys, this year's PiF is starting to look pretty damn awesome!
You are all stepping things up, and I wanted to give a shout out to 3 River Blades for going above and beyond by going through the hoops to turn this into a bonafide fundraiser for an organization that brings tremendous value to the world, and who really epitomizes what Paying it Forward is all about!
[video=youtube;iTDtQIk0lVs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTDtQIk0lVs[/video]
You are all stepping things up, and I wanted to give a shout out to 3 River Blades for going above and beyond by going through the hoops to turn this into a bonafide fundraiser for an organization that brings tremendous value to the world, and who really epitomizes what Paying it Forward is all about!
[video=youtube;iTDtQIk0lVs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTDtQIk0lVs[/video]
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2005
- Messages
- 27,860
[video=youtube;MhOEauBuqwI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhOEauBuqwI&feature=youtu.be[/video]
Ben, I don't think John got your message here. You might want to try getting directly in touch
Ben, I don't think John got your message here. You might want to try getting directly in touch
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2012
- Messages
- 30
Hey ben
Thanks so much for doing this... lets connect off line. Here's my email 3Riverblades@gmail.com
Thanks so much for doing this... lets connect off line. Here's my email 3Riverblades@gmail.com
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2011
- Messages
- 74
I have decided it will definitely be number 2, and I am going for a "retro" kind of look - using some W2 from a circular saw blade, combined with micarta, stainless steel and leather. WIP to follow shortly.
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2011
- Messages
- 74
Here it is, marked out on the blade:
With the initial grind, pin, bolster and lanyard holes drilled:
Balance/structural holes drilled:
With the initial grind, pin, bolster and lanyard holes drilled:
Balance/structural holes drilled:
Almost finished — the shellac needs to dry and then I need to make a sheath. I've got a lot of pictures and I'll do a full WIP when it's done.
- Chris
ETA: I also started another knife (totally different design) that I'll be giving to a charity auction.
- Chris
ETA: I also started another knife (totally different design) that I'll be giving to a charity auction.
Last edited:
I haven't done the sheath yet, but I can add that on once I do.
1) Here is the design traced out onto the steel (Aldo's 1084 1/8" thick). I don't have a bandsaw so I have to drill holes and "connect the dots" with a hacksaw.
2) The rough profiling is done. There are a couple of spots that I didn't get with the hacksaw, but it was just easier to do with the grinder.
3) All of the profiling is done. After smoothing the profile up to 220g on the grinder, I sanded all of the parts of the profile that will be visible on the final knife by hand. I use a dremel to shape and sand the inside of tight curves, and sandpaper wrapped around a section of PVC pipe to sand the inside of gentle curves. I also added the jimping and choil. The hole at the very end of the handle is to finish the tsukamaki and the rest are for balance.
4) I ground the blade with my Grizzly 2x72" with 60g norton blaze belts.
5) I skipped a few steps, but here it is after HT and a soak in vinegar to get the fire scale off. I've started doing all of my hardening after dark, so those steps wouldn't have photographed well, anyway. I heat in a charcoal forge and quench in canola oil. Tempering is in a gas oven in my kitchen.
6) I skipped a few steps in here, too (I was excited to get the grinding done and I forgot). I did post HT grinding with 60g and then 220g blaze belts, then fine and very fine scotchbrite belts (this was actually my inaugural run of the very fine scotchbrite belt). This photo was taken on a piece of cardboard instead of my usual flagstone because I didn't want the finish to get scratched. I also did hand sanding on the profile up to 400 grit.
7) I traced the handle on a piece of 0.09" kydex and cut out the scales.
8) I glue and drill each scale one by one so I don't lose the hole.
9) Second scale being glued on but without the hole drilled yet.
10) I trim the excess kydex with a jeweler's saw. I only cut to about 2-3mm of the blade end of the scales so I don't nick the nice part of the steel with the sawblade. I trim the rest with a knife. I cleaned up the edges slightly with a file, but they don't have to be too nice since they'll be covered up later. Sorry that the picture's fuzzy; I was doing this part at night and I don't have lights inside for photos.
11) I apply yellow mustard with a q-tip and let it sit for most of an episode of "Parks and Recreation." I do it prior to the tsukamaki so I don't have to wash any mustard out of the paracord.
12) I was hoping for a little bit more coverage with the etch, but I'm still pleased with it.
13) I glue on both menuki (white fiberoptic) with superglue before I start the tsukamaki.
14) Starting the tsukamaki. Where the handle is narrowest, the paracord lies flat where it crosses so it doesn't get too fat. I do this for the first few wraps.
15) When the handle starts to widen out, I do a slightly different wrapping method. The bottom strand does a full twist, which creates a groove for the top strand to lie in.
16) The top strand lies flat in the groove. I put a drop of superglue under the paracord each time it goes around the side of the handle. This helps to secure it while I'm doing the wrapping (I learned this trick from watching videos of Pavel Bolf).
17) Progress shot (making up for all of the steps I didn't photograph while doing the blade).
18) At the end of the handle, the paracord is just pulled through the hole until the tang is completely covered. The paracord in the hole is glued with a hefty dose of superglue. (By the way, I learned this type of 'end knot' as well as the use of kydex scales under tsukamaki from MS Wally Hayes' katana video.)
19) The extra paracord is cut off and the end is melted with a lighter. It looks like crap right now with superglue everywhere, but this will be fine once I add the shellac.
20) Another progress shot. The tsukamaki is finished but I haven't sealed it yet.
21) Finished! I applied the shellac with a small paintbrush until it was almost completely saturated. I frequently saturate it completely, but I wanted to keep the handle slightly absorbent for extra grippiness.
I'm very pleased with the way this knife turned out. The grip is very comfortable and secure in my hand.
I haven't totally decided where this one's going to go yet, but I still have plenty of time.
- Chris
1) Here is the design traced out onto the steel (Aldo's 1084 1/8" thick). I don't have a bandsaw so I have to drill holes and "connect the dots" with a hacksaw.
2) The rough profiling is done. There are a couple of spots that I didn't get with the hacksaw, but it was just easier to do with the grinder.
3) All of the profiling is done. After smoothing the profile up to 220g on the grinder, I sanded all of the parts of the profile that will be visible on the final knife by hand. I use a dremel to shape and sand the inside of tight curves, and sandpaper wrapped around a section of PVC pipe to sand the inside of gentle curves. I also added the jimping and choil. The hole at the very end of the handle is to finish the tsukamaki and the rest are for balance.
4) I ground the blade with my Grizzly 2x72" with 60g norton blaze belts.
5) I skipped a few steps, but here it is after HT and a soak in vinegar to get the fire scale off. I've started doing all of my hardening after dark, so those steps wouldn't have photographed well, anyway. I heat in a charcoal forge and quench in canola oil. Tempering is in a gas oven in my kitchen.
6) I skipped a few steps in here, too (I was excited to get the grinding done and I forgot). I did post HT grinding with 60g and then 220g blaze belts, then fine and very fine scotchbrite belts (this was actually my inaugural run of the very fine scotchbrite belt). This photo was taken on a piece of cardboard instead of my usual flagstone because I didn't want the finish to get scratched. I also did hand sanding on the profile up to 400 grit.
7) I traced the handle on a piece of 0.09" kydex and cut out the scales.
8) I glue and drill each scale one by one so I don't lose the hole.
9) Second scale being glued on but without the hole drilled yet.
10) I trim the excess kydex with a jeweler's saw. I only cut to about 2-3mm of the blade end of the scales so I don't nick the nice part of the steel with the sawblade. I trim the rest with a knife. I cleaned up the edges slightly with a file, but they don't have to be too nice since they'll be covered up later. Sorry that the picture's fuzzy; I was doing this part at night and I don't have lights inside for photos.
11) I apply yellow mustard with a q-tip and let it sit for most of an episode of "Parks and Recreation." I do it prior to the tsukamaki so I don't have to wash any mustard out of the paracord.
12) I was hoping for a little bit more coverage with the etch, but I'm still pleased with it.
13) I glue on both menuki (white fiberoptic) with superglue before I start the tsukamaki.
14) Starting the tsukamaki. Where the handle is narrowest, the paracord lies flat where it crosses so it doesn't get too fat. I do this for the first few wraps.
15) When the handle starts to widen out, I do a slightly different wrapping method. The bottom strand does a full twist, which creates a groove for the top strand to lie in.
16) The top strand lies flat in the groove. I put a drop of superglue under the paracord each time it goes around the side of the handle. This helps to secure it while I'm doing the wrapping (I learned this trick from watching videos of Pavel Bolf).
17) Progress shot (making up for all of the steps I didn't photograph while doing the blade).
18) At the end of the handle, the paracord is just pulled through the hole until the tang is completely covered. The paracord in the hole is glued with a hefty dose of superglue. (By the way, I learned this type of 'end knot' as well as the use of kydex scales under tsukamaki from MS Wally Hayes' katana video.)
19) The extra paracord is cut off and the end is melted with a lighter. It looks like crap right now with superglue everywhere, but this will be fine once I add the shellac.
20) Another progress shot. The tsukamaki is finished but I haven't sealed it yet.
21) Finished! I applied the shellac with a small paintbrush until it was almost completely saturated. I frequently saturate it completely, but I wanted to keep the handle slightly absorbent for extra grippiness.
I'm very pleased with the way this knife turned out. The grip is very comfortable and secure in my hand.
I haven't totally decided where this one's going to go yet, but I still have plenty of time.
- Chris
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2011
- Messages
- 74
Right, made a bit more progress. I didn't take pics of all the steps but I know you will get the idea:
Pommel bolster fitted and riveted, Micarta scales rough fitted:
Scales profiled more:
Epoxied, pinned, shaped and initial sanding done:
Sanding a bit further along and approaching final standard of 800 grit:
I should be able to finish it off in the next week or so and have it on it's way to John at 3RiverBlades.
Pommel bolster fitted and riveted, Micarta scales rough fitted:
Scales profiled more:
Epoxied, pinned, shaped and initial sanding done:
Sanding a bit further along and approaching final standard of 800 grit:
I should be able to finish it off in the next week or so and have it on it's way to John at 3RiverBlades.
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2012
- Messages
- 30
looks great brother!
Right, made a bit more progress. I didn't take pics of all the steps but I know you will get the idea:
Pommel bolster fitted and riveted, Micarta scales rough fitted:
Scales profiled more:
Epoxied, pinned, shaped and initial sanding done:
Sanding a bit further along and approaching final standard of 800 grit:
I should be able to finish it off in the next week or so and have it on it's way to John at 3RiverBlades.
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2011
- Messages
- 74
Thanks John - I hope the donors to the project also like it and we raise a ton of money for Wounded Warriors!
Thanks Lorien, I appreciate. I will post up some more pics later in the week when I am done.