second chance

Raymond Richard

Raymond Richard

Joined
Jun 17, 2001
Messages
5,705
My straightening process results sometimes are pretty severe. In this case I just snapped the tip off of the longer version of this blade. Since it was just a tip I forged on a new one and started all over again. Finished this one up last night and got away from the stag this time. The blade is saw steel and its 6 1/2", wrought iron fittings and a African blackwood handle. Its got a real bold hambone. Tried to get a closeup picture of it but my battery needs charging.

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PimpinSquee said:
looks great man. i like that black wood. where did you find that african blackwood at?
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I actually found this piece of blackwood laying on one of my work benches. :D There's a couple more chunks on the bench in my clean room. There's to wood places in Portland that I deal with. Wood Crafters and Gilmere Woods. Most the knife supply places also carry it. Check with TKS.
 
Raymond Richard said:
I actually found this piece of blackwood laying on one of my work benches. :D There's a couple more chunks on the bench in my clean room. There's to wood places in Portland that I deal with. Wood Crafters and Gilmere Woods. Most the knife supply places also carry it. Check with TKS.
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Ray, have you checked out Crosscut Hardwoods on Front Street in Portland? They have over 100 different exotic hard and soft woods in stock at all times. You can buy a little bit, or a lot. The also keep a pallet sized box of spalted and burled scraps filled up, adding new pieces to it daily. They will also special order any kind of wood that you want, if they don't have it in stock. They are great to deal with and the prices are very reasonable. They advertise themselves as "The candy store for woodworkers".
 
scottickes said:
Ray, have you checked out Crosscut Hardwoods on Front Street in Portland? They have over 100 different exotic hard and soft woods in stock at all times. You can buy a little bit, or a lot. The also keep a pallet sized box of spalted and burled scraps filled up, adding new pieces to it daily. They will also special order any kind of wood that you want, if they don't have it in stock. They are great to deal with and the prices are very reasonable. They advertise themselves as "The candy store for woodworkers".
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I'll keep that in mind. I remember you telling me about them before. Best to go to those places without much cash in hand. To easy to leave broke......
 
Ray, that's a beautiful knife. It has that excellence of flow and proportion that gives a fine knife understated elegance. An enduring sense of style that outlasts all fads.
 
Well, Fitzo found the eloquance to say kind of what I was thinking, so I'll just say:

"Looks Good Ray!"

:D

-d
 
rocketmann said:
Nice one Ray, :thumbup: .. How do you heat treat your saw steel??
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Other than having it in and out of the forge during forging I'll normalize 3 times. Once its cool I'll put the clay on and then in the toaster oven till the clay is dry. Then in the oven for soak at 1465 for a little over 5 minutes. I've been doing a water quench Wayne Goddard told me about. I put about 1/4" of oil on top of the water thats 140 degrees. I go in that quench for 2 seconds and then in warm oil. I run 3 draws 1 hour each at 425.
 
Ray, my saw blade steel is only .16 (just over 1/8") thick and the blade was 36" across.. I'm not sure if it is worth it to forge in the bevels? I was thinking of doing stock removal with it.. As far as wet forging, are you talking about keeping the anvil and hammer wet so the slag blows off ?? Thanks for the info..
 
Louis, Here's a trick I've been doing with saw steel. I'll take a piece of saw steel and cut it 1 3/4" X 7" and weld a handle on to it. I'll forge the width back into itself while working the sides as I go. I stop when I've reached 1 1/4" X 9". At this time the thickness should be close to a 1/4". The saw steel I've been using is about the same thickness starting out as what you have. Your right about the wet forging.
 
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