Second Folder Completed!

brandoninaz

brandoninaz

Joined
Apr 9, 2009
Messages
51
Now I know it's not even close to being in the same class as some of the things most of you post, but I still wanted to share as a way of saying thank you for all the knowledge that everyone shares on this site.

I wanted to make a tough knife to take overseas with me, so here it is:
Blade Length: 3.5"
Overall length: 8.375"
Blade: .250" thick A2
Frame: .125" thick titanium
I think the lockup needs just a little more work, I'd like to see the blade with a little more support underneath it.


DSC03045.jpg


DSC03044.jpg


DSC03043.jpg


Opinions, positive and negative are welcome!

Thanks again:)
 
I think it looks good, have you read Bob Terzuola's "The Tactical Folding Knife"? There is some good information in there that would help you get the lock working the way you want
 
Brandon.
I see a little Chris Reeve influence, with a dash of Strider. I like the file work on top of the blade and the convex edge.
Wood or G10 scales would really set it off and make it easier to hold with gloves on. Cooler to the touch if your heading to the desert in the middle east.

Good job.
 
Thank you for all the input. I think I'm going to try a set of wood handles and see how it turns out. I figure if I don't like it, I will only be left with a couple screw holes when the handles are gone.

Unky, thank you for the suggestion, just glanced over the book, looks like there is a ton of info in there.
 
I'm working a Ti handle currently. Ti just screams for knurling. You can also anodize using just 9v batteries. Three of them in series will anodize a bluish-purple if you like. 4 batteries a bit more blue. After having built my anodizer, I watched a vid on youtube showing you can do it with just batteries and solution.
 
brandoninaz,

Just curious to know if you heat treated the Frame lock where it contacts the back of the blade? If not, the lock will tend to wear prematurely and most likely stick as well. I developed a process to accomplish this very easily while working at one of the two companies that Frank Barron mentioned in his thread. Email me at baumknives@yahoo.com and I'll fill you in if you're interested. Also, If you have a way to remove a couple of tenths from the end of the blade that contacts the frame lock and maintain the same angle you should be able to get the lockup closer to 50%. Whatever you do, just take one 10,000th of an inch at a time and walk the fit up in until it's where you want it. If you take too much off there's no going back. It involves a lot of assemble/disassemble until you get it where you want it but it's worth it in the end.

Rick
 
I think it's great especially for just your second !!!! One remark I have for you is if you do or don't put wood scales overtop which I believe will make it too wide is to round all those edges off. If you use if for a bit as it is you will find the knife will soon become uncomfortable to use. Still it's a great effort and most of it is going the right way.
I guess Rick has got a "secret meathod to harden the front of the lock. You won't need that in my opinion. I went through two blades in the same folder and never had a problem with lock wear or stickyness. Frank
 
Zaph1, I bent it the wrong way. I put in in a vise and bent it all at one point. Oh well, now I know from the Terzuola book that a gradual bend is the way to go. Also thanks for the anodizing info, I may have to try it out.

Rick, I didn't heat treat the lock, now that the detent bearing is already installed can I still do it?

Frank, you were right on the handles, it's too thick for me. When you say round of the edges do you mean the inside edges as well as the outside edges? I left the inside edges crisp thinking it would look better, but I did round the outside ones.
 
We always HTed the lock prior to pressing in the detent ball. I'm not sure what issues you would run into. If it's a ceramic ball it would probably handle the heat but the expansion and contraction of the titanium from the HT process might cause issues for you. You probably ought to leave this one alone and email me the next time you build one and I'll fill you in on the process. Like said in another post it's not necessary but it's probably one of the number of small things that the big dogs do to make things smoother and last longer. Kind of similar to building a race engine. All the little things add up.

Take care overseas!

Rick
 
Thank you Rick!

I used two 9V batteries and the titanium came out a really nice light bronze color, almost like a dark cream soda. I really like it. I'll get a picture of it when I have some more time.
 
DSC03046.jpg


Here it is

I would like to add that I am color blind, so if my description of the color is off, that's my alibi.
 
looks really nice! the handle looks gold after anodizing, and that is a pretty serious blade with .25" thick A2 :thumbup:
 
Brandon, I'm reffering to any of the outside edges, that your hand or fingers come in contact with. BUT, it will give a different look altogether.
i had a real sharp electrician friend who mI went to, to talk about power and how to anodize . This was literally 16 years ago.He set me up with the 9 volt batteries. I used it for severtal years.
Your folder looks even better in colour !!! Good doin's guy !!! Frank
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top