Seeking Advice for Electric Knife Sharpening Machine for Side-Business

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Nov 11, 2018
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Hello guys. If you had the option of opening a small side business for knife sharpening out of your home, what machine would you use? Would you go for Tormek T2, a Tru-Hone, or a Work Sharp Ken Onion? Or other? Any pros and cons of each?

I’m looking to sharpen knives only at this stage and not scissors or tools. I have a very small spare room in my apartment, so I need something practical as I don’t have a garage. Again this is for a small side business not full time, so will be targeting restaurants and some cafes. Any tips or recommendations are most welcome. Thank you!
 
I have owned the WSKO for several years now. I like it. But I think it's "too slow". I routinely spend 15 to 20 minutes per blade on really damaged worn out blades that people bring me. From what I've been told, a 1x42 belt sander is kind of "the standard" in the sharpening industry. The Kalamazoo is very well respected.

While you won't be doing this full time, this machine is capable of that if your volume increases. You really want to be able to knock out a blade in 5 minutes or under. More like 2 to 3 if at all possible.

Brian.
 
Thanks B bgentry for the feedback. Do you think in this case the Tormek T4 would be more appropriate on the long run for sharpening blades within a few mins?
 
For the fastest sharpening with a Tormek you would want a T2. With the T4 you will burn a lot of time getting each knife clamped, angle set and do the sharpening. The T4 will give you a few more options for other items you can sharpen with the added jigs. Here is a pic of the edge a properly dressed Tormek T7 wheel will produce, but it is not quick as a T2. Knives are Strider SNG and SMF.SMF SNG Edge.jpg
 
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I haven't used a Tormek. I've read opinions from several others that it's best for woodworking tools and isn't very fast or cost effective for knife blades. Again, I have ZERO experience with Tormek. Just repeating what I've heard said here.

Brian.
 
My 2 cents, wet wheel grinders do a great job but are slow and tend to have real issues with different belly curvatures that can take a lot of familiarity to eliminate with confidence.

A variable speed belt grinder is a better option IMHO.

You will want to get your time on most blades down to 5 minutes or less total handling time. Some will run over, but if you are spending a lot of time per unit you will price yourself out of business or lose $ while working.
 
If in a small room, depends on ventilation options, stick with a wet Tormek like the T7 or T8.

HH is dead on but belt grinding, without precautions, presents respiratory hazards and the whole room will get a dusting of metal particles.

Jim
 
If in a small room, depends on ventilation options, stick with a wet Tormek like the T7 or T8.

HH is dead on but belt grinding, without precautions, presents respiratory hazards and the whole room will get a dusting of metal particles.

Jim
100%
I use the variable speed and seldom use it at high RPM, only when doing regrinds. Otherwise I wet the belt often with a drywall sponge, and actually do most of my bevel setting with a 120 grit Blaze belt or a 125 micron diamond belt.

Soon I'll be adding a much larger machine specifically for axes, lawnmower blades, stuff I used to do with a file but am no longer willing to muscle through repairing all the dings by hand.
Helps to do everything but having a niche is a good idea.
 
All of my chef knives have super thin edges. They are easy to resharpen on stones -- less than 5 minutes.

I would never consider using a motorized system on these knives. A motorized sharpening would quickly push the edge shoulders up into thicker stock, making the knife less efficient.
 
All of my chef knives have super thin edges. They are easy to resharpen on stones -- less than 5 minutes.

I would never consider using a motorized system on these knives. A motorized sharpening would quickly push the edge shoulders up into thicker stock, making the knife less efficient.

Well you can move as fast as you want and stop when the time is right. A variable speed grinder helps as well.

Have you seen some house knives that line cooks have abused? It ain't pretty or a quick fix.

Jim
 
Tormek seems to have been into this for a long time. That's where I'd look. With one of the manual sharpening systems for a back up or to finish up the edge.
 
The tormek is expensive and takes a lifetime to sharpen with professionally.

As a professional, you need to be able to hit angles freehand.

A harbour freight 1x30 belt sander with name brand Norton Blaze Ceramic belts will cut circles around the options I see here.

Good luck.
 
The tormek is expensive and takes a lifetime to sharpen with professionally.

As a professional, you need to be able to hit angles freehand.

A harbour freight 1x30 belt sander with name brand Norton Blaze Ceramic belts will cut circles around the options I see here.

Good luck.

I don't disagree one bit about other options being better than a Tormek. I run a sharpening business and have lots of gear 1X42 and 2X72 belt grinders, Tormek T7, piles of stones, etc but no way would I run a belt grinder in a small enclosed room. Given time metal dust will settle on everything.
 
True, but If it's a business then time is money, and if your time makes money then you can invest in a dust collection system.

If it's just a hobby to make a little tax free cash for fun then it doesn't matter.

I'm just sharing my opinion, you're not wrong, to each there own my friend.

I don't disagree one bit about other options being better than a Tormek. I run a sharpening business and have lots of gear 1X42 and 2X72 belt grinders, Tormek T7, piles of stones, etc but no way would I run a belt grinder in a small enclosed room. Given time metal dust will settle on everything.
 
I don't disagree one bit about other options being better than a Tormek. I run a sharpening business and have lots of gear 1X42 and 2X72 belt grinders, Tormek T7, piles of stones, etc but no way would I run a belt grinder in a small enclosed room. Given time metal dust will settle on everything.

I tried to use my HF with the stock motor but honestly I wouldn't want to go that route except for regrinds. I use a bit of water on everything and most of the time RPMs are under 700. This is plenty fast for sharpening even abused cutlery and slow enough the water doesn't sling too bad, all the swarf winds up in my sponge bucket or in a small pile behind the drive wheel. I like the HF for sharpening as consumables are so cheap, I can get even diamond belts for it economically, but you cannot run them at high RPM.

I have a Triton wet wheel and it does a great job but is slower and takes more setup time, but is actually pleasant to use - quiet, cool, precise. I can do some knives in 5 minutes, but most take 10-15. Still not terrible $ for a part time job. At that pace you could do a pretty good job with stones as long as volumes stay reasonable.

With the jigs I have I can do more on the belt grinder, but my #1 advice to anyone going that route where screw-ups are just not an option get - a variable speed motor.
 
One other consideration is where you have to do your sharpening. Some businesses want an "in house" sharpener and other are good with bringing the items to you. You have to keep yourself mobile for some customers.
 
I tried to use my HF with the stock motor but honestly I wouldn't want to go that route except for regrinds. I use a bit of water on everything and most of the time RPMs are under 700. This is plenty fast for sharpening even abused cutlery and slow enough the water doesn't sling too bad, all the swarf winds up in my sponge bucket or in a small pile behind the drive wheel. I like the HF for sharpening as consumables are so cheap, I can get even diamond belts for it economically, but you cannot run them at high RPM.

I have a Triton wet wheel and it does a great job but is slower and takes more setup time, but is actually pleasant to use - quiet, cool, precise. I can do some knives in 5 minutes, but most take 10-15. Still not terrible $ for a part time job. At that pace you could do a pretty good job with stones as long as volumes stay reasonable.

With the jigs I have I can do more on the belt grinder, but my #1 advice to anyone going that route where screw-ups are just not an option get - a variable speed motor.
Yeah but did you get a variable speed dc motor for it ... That's a nice upgrade :)
 
Yeah but did you get a variable speed dc motor for it ... That's a nice upgrade :)

Its a game-changer. I can also reverse it, which can be done with most if not all (?) DC motors. My normal routine is raise a burr, flip and raise, reverse speed and direction, carefully remove burr, on to some form of finish step.

Makes basic sharpening sooo much easier and less liable to screw up at the plunge line or beat up the tip. I set mine horizontal and have an identical set up for my benchstones. Once I clamp the knife I can go from belt to microbevel on a finishing stone, or just hit it with a hard strop and go. I might never get a larger machine.
 
Its a game-changer. I can also reverse it, which can be done with most if not all (?) DC motors. My normal routine is raise a burr, flip and raise, reverse speed and direction, carefully remove burr, on to some form of finish step.

Makes basic sharpening sooo much easier and less liable to screw up at the plunge line or beat up the tip. I set mine horizontal and have an identical set up for my benchstones. Once I clamp the knife I can go from belt to microbevel on a finishing stone, or just hit it with a hard strop and go. I might never get a larger machine.
I use a vfd on my 2x72 with a Tormek jig similar to your jig. I can dial it in perfectly if I wish so I know what you mean! I don't use the jig for kitchen or cheap knives generally but for nice ones I do. Really makes the transition to the manual system seamless.
 
Be sure to ventilate well. I do a lot of knife sharpening, grinding, modifying in my shop and before I got a good mask, goggles and a BIG fan I used to get headaches and a sore throat.

Be careful, you don't know what toxic elements are lurking in some steels.
 
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