Seeking Info On WWII Japanese Sword...

Rich S said:
Yes, it's my website.

Rich S

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Richard Stein, PhD alchemyst@yahoo.com

The Japanese Sword Index
http://www.geocities.com/alchemyst/nihonto.htm
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LOL, I know that sir, I was wondering if some of our other folks did based on some of the responses I've seen here. After you posted on the subject I sort of decided I didn't have anything more useful to add except to perhaps point out some of the fallacies in a few of the points raised by some. Note that the proceeding wasn't aimed at you UrbanCyborg, I was simply going to get you to highlight the obvious to some few of the other folks here. :)
 
WEll, nice info.

did you all know, the most valuable KATANAs are made hand-forged by swordsmith approved by the emporer. So if you buy from a swordsmith next time, insist on buying from a Japanese Emporer Recognised Swordsmith !
 
acwire_2125 said:
Well, some do. look fo those who has lots of years in making blades.
That is no indication of quality either. Look at the blades instead ;).
 
Yes, my website as noted above. Not in Arizona (or anywhere close). There are no regular "posters" as there is no message board. A few articles by Clive Sinclaire (British) (before their group had a website). Over 200 links to other sword sites, clubs and various message boards. Not to mention about 100 pages of other information. Hope folks find it of use. Read the "Introduction" to find out all about me (probably more than you want to know) :-) The site is quite busy, so there is also a mirror site at:

http://home.earthlink.net/~steinrl/nihonto.htm

(also busy and commonly offline due to exceeding bandwidth)

Rich
------------------------------------------------------------
Richard Stein, PhD alchemyst@yahoo.com

The Japanese Sword Index
http://www.geocities.com/alchemyst/nihonto.htm
------------------------------------------------------------
 
I advise everyone to listen carefully to what Dr Stein (Rich) has said. Although he is too modest to point it out, he runs what is regarded as THE best Western Nihonto (Japanese sword) website out there, and has many many years in this hobby. As a beginner collector of only 3 years, it is amazing to see some of the common misconceptions about Japanese swords. There is a wealth of info on that website which will answer most questions. Take a look at the links page to fill in any gaps, and check out some of the forums linked there.
There were many good swords forged traditionally during WW2, and many machine made/non-traditionally forged blades that are still very collectible in their own right.
This sword appears to be an earlier wakizashi as stated. Further info can only be gathered by seeing the tang and even better...by inspecting personally. It could be anything from a 1400's cutdown blade to a wartime manufacture. Some are signed, others are unmarked. The tang (nakago) will give some info as to its age.
Browse the few Nihonto forums. Some of the biggest collectors participate there, and help is usually gladly given with blades like this.
Good luck with your research on this sword..and pay particular attention to the care instructions you have been given here.
Btw...the polishing is done by experts with many years experience, and is done on many different grades of special Japanese stones. It can take months to polish one blade..which is why $100 per INCH is not excessive. Polishers require more years of training that do swordsmiths. This is why a home sharpening job is a good way to ruin a blade.
Thanks for the time, and you are lucky to have Rich on board.

Regards,
Brian
South Africa.
 
I dont know a whole lot, but at a gun and knife show i talked to this guy who was part of a sword group. He showed me different swords. He told me that some of the WWII swords were mass produced rather than having each one hand pounded. You might have one of those stamped blades, they are still worth something. I think to find out abut where it was made you would have to get a picture of the kanji on the tang of the handle.

I actually wouldnt mind getting me a classic like yours someday.
 
Couple of points on care: first, never touch the blade with your hands, as the steel is pretty high carbon, and your natural finger oils will eventually etch into the metal. Second, never, ever try to sharpen it yourself; if the blade is actually handmade and not factory (look for an armorer's mark on the tang), the final polishing was done by a second master after the blade was forged by a first master, each a specialist. They used varying thicknesses of rice paper as the only abrasive, with the final one being considerably thinner and less abrasive than a Kleenex (!) And third, if you oil it, make sure the lubricant is totally acid free; carbon again. The traditional care given to a prized sword was to clean it once every two weeks with clove oil. In the interim, if it wasn't needed for anything sanguine, it would be hung unsheathed on two pegs in a place of honor. Oh, one other thing: it's probably not a good idea to keep it in its scabbard, especially it it's made of wood, as it will eventually cause very noticible brownish discoloration of the steel, and nothing you dare put on the blade will remove it.

Without any intent to polemize, I'd like to make some corrections on what stated here.
The final polishing is not done with just rice paper, but with rice paper (it's not actually rice, it's another plant that has nothing to do with rice, but it's called rice paper none the less) with very thin strata of extra-thin grit polishing stone (hazuya) alone, with polishing stone powder and then as a last passage, with the scale from forging ground as thin as talcum powder, perhaps more, that has not the purpose of polishing at all, but which penetrates in the pores left from polishing in the hamon to exhalt the patterns in steel.

Second, while it's usually not a good idea to keep blades in scabbards, this is true just for leather ones, where the acids used in tanning with moisture can get free and etch the blade.
Otherwise a scabbard is a good way to preserve a blade. I have an old 1854 pope's artillery sword from Schnitzler & Kirschbaum whose blade was well preserved only because the scabbard protected it from moisture, handling and various aggressives, being corroded instead of the blade.
Japanese blades where in fact commonly stored in specific scabbards, shirasaya (shira meaning "white" and saya meaning "scabbard") made with japanese magnolia wood.
They protected the blade and were inscribed with the sword data, and were glued together with just rice paste so that they could be easily taken apart to clean the interior to avoid old oil gumming up.
The sword was mounted in combat or presentation furniture depending on the occasion, and stored in the shirasaya otherwise.
 
Just a few corrections to the corrections :-)
With respect, that is a good summary, but I wanted to add that it is generally not a good idea to store a sword that has just been polished in the old saya. When a sword has been polished, the old mounts are usually shown with a wooden filler blade called a tsunagi, and the blade has a new storage scabbard made for it (shirasaya)
This is because the old saya will have dirt, moisture, dust and particles in it that can cause corrosion or scratching of the blade. There is no real way to clean out an old scabbard, and so almost always, the mounts are retired and the blade goes into its new shirasaya. Even some old oils can stain a blade. A new blade collar (habaki) is also made for the polished blade, as the old one will be looser after the polish.
The 2 final polishing stones are jizuya and hazuya, each having their own purposes, and these are ground down as thin as paper, and are worked with the fingertips. They serve to complete the final polishing stages, and to bring up the grain (hada) and temperline (hamon) to the right level. A composite oil called nugui is also used, and matched to the steel, to enhance the correct colour of the steel. The process could (and does) fill a whole book. See the new book comming out in May called "The Art of Japanese Sword Polishing" and please use it for info only. Don't be tempted to try polishing yourself.

Brian
 
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