- Joined
- Aug 7, 2003
- Messages
- 3,330
I only have one 420HC knife, a Gerber LMF2. It is indeed very tough, and it gets sharp. I wouldn’t hesitate to get a Strongarm either. Nice to have a knife that can be actively neglected and stay relatively no worse for wear for it. Definitely a GHB/BOB candidate.
However, all my Buck 110 versions are BG-42, S30V or 5160. I like the edges I can get on either over the 420HC, and ultimate blade toughness in a folder isn’t a priority of mine, taking a keen edge (5160) and holding it (S30V & B-42) are.
Finally, all my 1095 knives are made by Kabar. Their 1095 Cro-Van is springier and just better than simple 1095 in my experience with other companies products. Whether in USMC Fighting/Utility configurations, or thinned out, such as on the USN Mk. 1 or my Becker BK-15 these blades in this steel just flat out work hard, with a high carbon content.
That said, my favorite carbon steel is 80CRV2, because it can be heat treated into the low 60s on hardness without crumbling the edge.
Last word. I find ”corrosion resistance” to be the last thing I look for in a blade unless it’s a dedicated salt water environment I want it in. (H1 from Spyderco is scratching that itch). Forcing a patina is easy, mostly effective against pitting corrosion, with a minimum amount of attention paid, and cosmetics don‘t matter to me.
However, all my Buck 110 versions are BG-42, S30V or 5160. I like the edges I can get on either over the 420HC, and ultimate blade toughness in a folder isn’t a priority of mine, taking a keen edge (5160) and holding it (S30V & B-42) are.
Finally, all my 1095 knives are made by Kabar. Their 1095 Cro-Van is springier and just better than simple 1095 in my experience with other companies products. Whether in USMC Fighting/Utility configurations, or thinned out, such as on the USN Mk. 1 or my Becker BK-15 these blades in this steel just flat out work hard, with a high carbon content.
That said, my favorite carbon steel is 80CRV2, because it can be heat treated into the low 60s on hardness without crumbling the edge.
Last word. I find ”corrosion resistance” to be the last thing I look for in a blade unless it’s a dedicated salt water environment I want it in. (H1 from Spyderco is scratching that itch). Forcing a patina is easy, mostly effective against pitting corrosion, with a minimum amount of attention paid, and cosmetics don‘t matter to me.