Selling refurbished axes and hatchets

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I have become hooked on refurbishing axes. I can't keep them all, and I want to break even on this hobby. I recently put a Boy Scout Hatchet on eBay, and it got lots of looks, but no bids. So, here are my questions:

1) Where are the best places to sell refurbished axes and hatchets?
2) Is there a problem for American buyers if the axes and hatchets are coming from Canada?
3) Is there a trick to selling these things on eBay or other sites?
 
I have become hooked on refurbishing axes. I can't keep them all, and I want to break even on this hobby. I recently put a Boy Scout Hatchet on eBay, and it got lots of looks, but no bids. So, here are my questions:

1) Where are the best places to sell refurbished axes and hatchets?
2) Is there a problem for American buyers if the axes and hatchets are coming from Canada?
3) Is there a trick to selling these things on eBay or other sites?

I think that I got this.

I find a TON of vintage axes/hatchets/heads. I had a guy come buy one from me today but he saw me on eBay, and everything else has exclusively been eBay. You have to know what you are selling and price it correctly. You can sell $10 generic hatchet heads, nice vintage Craftsman heads for $20ish, good quality but not uncommon Plumb/etc axe heads for $30ish, the same as nice quality axes for $50-60. BSA hatchets vary depending on quality. They could be $20-40. Don't ask too much, try not to ask too little, and don't be afraid to let things relist a few times. Just because they don't sell the first time does not mean that they won't. I have had a head listed starting at $19 not sell for two cycles. I reduced it to $15, and that time it was bid up to $51. Quality matters too. I recently posted a Warren Old Faithful hatchet that was in SUPERB shape go for $107.50. I saw the same model that was just in pretty nice condition go for $25 a week or two later. Do it enough and you will get a feel for it. A really good BSA hatchet I may start at $19 with a buy it now of $29...IF it is nice. Most of my very good Plumb and Collins vintage axes with good handles go for $50-60. A Craftsman in the same shape (and just as good an axe) may go for $30. I find that heads go for roughly %50-70 of the equivalent head on a handle. A nice finished handle helps, a tight handle helps more. Country of origin does not matter as long as it is North American or Northern European. I have had people in other countries buy my American made products, but I also think that American buyers may even be likely to pay MORE for a Canadian vintage axe, especially if it from an uncommon maker. Some go for the best tool, some for collectivity, many for both. Know your audience. If you are finding and selling vintage stuff, your primary target would be the type of people on this site. You can't usually BS that group, and you should not try (not that you are). They know their stuff and will buy if it is fair, move on if it isn't. I do this for fun and to make part time job money to help with a vacation or with Christmas. I sell a lot, so I aim to make good value on everything, not a killing on anything.

I am not an "authority", but I am just one good source of an opinion. There are others. You could post some pics of what you are selling, and I and hopefully a few others could tell you what we think about it's value and what you should ask for it. Between us you should be able to get a good feel for where it should be.
 
Keep the shipping low as possible. I saw a nice head I wanted was $10 but was $15 shipping. A US shipper would fit that in a small priority box for $6 so I felt the seller was a gouger and so did a lot of others since it is still for sale.
 
Good quality pictures, well written advertisement and CHEAP!

Trust me, start the bidding at $0.99 with honest postage and those fish will bite. If you put a buy it now price, it'll devalue your item and stop two mad bidders potentially going to war!

The true value of an item is decided by the viewer/buyer and the cheaper the starting bid + postage the more viewers and potentially bidders will watch it.


I've also got refurbished tools I need to sell, and I get kind of stuck when thinking of how to price them, but the simplest way is to go for it and just do the almighty £/$0.99 and let the ebay hounds do all the hard work!
 
Keep the shipping low as possible. I saw a nice head I wanted was $10 but was $15 shipping. A US shipper would fit that in a small priority box for $6 so I felt the seller was a gouger and so did a lot of others since it is still for sale.

Yes, that kills me. All of my heads go into small flat rate boxes. The axes I wrap in cardboard and weigh, then quote the Parcel select price because it shows up the cheapest when presented to the buyer. Once ordered, I will usually then ship Priority because the eBay discount is usually the same cost or lower than Parcel. Everyone wins.
 
As a buyer, I want to see a direct, profile shot of the entire head - not from angles, not 15 shots from the same angle. Close ups of little details is fine, a wide shot if it is on a handle (since you mention refurbishing them) but the head really only has 5 sides and I like to see clear shots of all of them. In particular, I always like sellers who have pictures of the head directly from the top so that we can see the bit profile, and directly from the side to judge the overall shape of the bit. I keep saying "directly" because pictures from angles can make it difficult to see the true profile.

When you say refurbished, are you putting a new handle on it? I mean, at some point I would think it would be tough to get paid for your time if you're doing a full, detailed hang. Then again, the work may speak for itself.
 
As a buyer, I want to see a direct, profile shot of the entire head - not from angles, not 15 shots from the same angle. Close ups of little details is fine, a wide shot if it is on a handle (since you mention refurbishing them) but the head really only has 5 sides and I like to see clear shots of all of them. In particular, I always like sellers who have pictures of the head directly from the top so that we can see the bit profile, and directly from the side to judge the overall shape of the bit. I keep saying "directly" because pictures from angles can make it difficult to see the true profile.

When you say refurbished, are you putting a new handle on it? I mean, at some point I would think it would be tough to get paid for your time if you're doing a full, detailed hang. Then again, the work may speak for itself.

Totally forgot about picture angles! The clear top and side shots are the most important for me. Most hand axes are really thick, and alot of sellers try to hide this with dubious angles.
 
Clear vertical shots also let you see the shape of the eye and degree of distortion of poll if mushroomed.

Bits that do not fit in a small flat rate box can still be shipped reasonably by wrapping securely in cardboard and shipping in a padded flat rate envelope. 6.25 I think...

I resell and sometimes lose money due to my photos and description showing flaws that I was not shown when I bought the head. Buying from Ebay and then reselling there is a high risk of loss. I do not advise belt sanding heads to bare metal. Some do it but I think it really takes away from the head. Same can be true of vinegar soak if done too extreme. Wire wheel on a bench grinder followed by light hand sanding or coarse steel wool leave a better finish.

All being said, unless you have a supply line like JBLYTTLE ( ;) ), I would advise to keep it a hobby you enjoy and be grateful for any spare $$ you might get to continue your hobby. Once you start looking at $$ first, you might be disappointed at your return. Even figuring on 5.00 per hour, I rarely "make" money.

Bill
 
I'm not a seller on ebay, but occasionally buy. I regularly look through "category:
Collectibles>Tools, Hardware & Locks>Tools>Carpentry, Woodworking". I'm interested in all kinds of vintage and antique tools and have looked at a lot of listings. FWIW this is my personal opinion.

I totally agree with all of the advice given (good descriptive photos, low shipping, etc.). I often see titles like this one: "PLUMB BROAD HEWING SIDE TIMBER LOG CAMP HUNTING WOOD WRIGHT BENCH TOOL KNIFE AXE". I guess the seller thinks that all these superfluous words will get them more hits from a search from a potential buyer. This is a turn-off for me as well as things like "L@@K!" or "MUST SEE" in the title. I like descriptions that are descriptive and not a history lesson or some other blah blah. I also don't like sellers that have paragraphs of their rules for the seller to follow if they buy their stuff. And finally, I don't understand sellers who don't leave feedback when they receive their payment. When I buy I pay promptly and the money is instantly transferred from my account to theirs. What more can a buyer do?
 
That is a good point about overcleaning. I never buy an acid bathed buffed axe. I prefer as found so I can clean it myself to my own specs. I think selling a compete rehabbed and cleaned axe limits your potential buyers in the axe hobby. It might pay to put a selection of cleaned rehabbed axes on your watch list on ebay to see what prices you can expect.
 
I'm not a seller on ebay, but occasionally buy. I regularly look through "category:
Collectibles>Tools, Hardware & Locks>Tools>Carpentry, Woodworking". I'm interested in all kinds of vintage and antique tools and have looked at a lot of listings. FWIW this is my personal opinion.

I totally agree with all of the advice given (good descriptive photos, low shipping, etc.). I often see titles like this one: "PLUMB BROAD HEWING SIDE TIMBER LOG CAMP HUNTING WOOD WRIGHT BENCH TOOL KNIFE AXE". I guess the seller thinks that all these superfluous words will get them more hits from a search from a potential buyer. This is a turn-off for me as well as things like "L@@K!" or "MUST SEE" in the title. I like descriptions that are descriptive and not a history lesson or some other blah blah. I also don't like sellers that have paragraphs of their rules for the seller to follow if they buy their stuff. And finally, I don't understand sellers who don't leave feedback when they receive their payment. When I buy I pay promptly and the money is instantly transferred from my account to theirs. What more can a buyer do?

Haha, good one. I will admit to using a couple of different words if people rightly or wrongly call something by two different names, a good example would be "carpenter roofer hatchet", or "broad axe hewing hatchet". I may have used LOOK once or trice, hey so shoot me! ;) I figure you have to let them find what they are looking for, but yeah the descriptions that just throw word soup are dumb.

What I hate worse? Using desirable words to suck people into looking at your crap that has nothing to do with the word you used, such as "unmarked axe head, Legitimus?" or "hatchet handle Norlund type".
That's just dirty.
 
. . . .
What I hate worse? Using desirable words to suck people into looking at your crap that has nothing to do with the word you used, such as "unmarked axe head, Legitimus?" or "hatchet handle Norlund type".
That's just dirty.

Me to,:grumpy: forgot that one.
 
Shipping from Canada will make it a bit harder, but there does not seem to be a lot of collectors here selling Canadian axes.

I may be interested in something in the new year. As others have said, take clear shots of the profile, measurements or at least a measuring tape in the shot would help, and be really clear about wear on the head. Focusing on good-quality users and more rare axes should definitely sell pretty easily.
 
Is there an "Axe/Hatchet" section in the Exchange here on BF? I'm interested in finding some vintage heads and would prefer to buy from a trusted BF member.
 
I have so much stuff to move that I keep meaning to upgrade my account so I can offer things. I have had a couple of private inquiries, but I can't just post my stuff and say hey look buy this!
 
Most of the points are covered extremely well. jblyttle is spot on with the expected yield prices. I will just add that as a buyer, I hate when I see high starting bids, it spoils the whole auction environment for me. People with inventory that can handle sitting on it for a while sometimes list axes at $75 that would normally top out at $60... it's just lame. When I sell a restored axe on eBay, I start the auction at what I paid for the axe or head, and I can say that it doesn't seem to negatively affect the going price at all.
 
Yes, that kills me. All of my heads go into small flat rate boxes. The axes I wrap in cardboard and weigh, then quote the Parcel select price because it shows up the cheapest when presented to the buyer. Once ordered, I will usually then ship Priority because the eBay discount is usually the same cost or lower than Parcel. Everyone wins.

What really pisses me off is that eBay quotes the "actual shipping charge" at a certain price, then I find out later I'm only eligible for that shipping price if I print my own label. Well, I don't have a printer right now, so I sell a hatchet for $35 that I paid $5 for the head plus some lumber, sweat equity. The buyer pays me $41 because eBay says the shipping is $6, and when I go to ship the hatchet I get charged $10.50. Then, eBay charges me a $3.50 selling fee, crazy!
 
Thanks for all the great advice. I have lowered the asking to $1.99 and lowered the shipping charges. This is my first sale, so I don't even know for sure what the shipping might be to the USA. For items coming from the USA, I have to pay a duty charge on top of the shipping charge, so shipping tends to be as much as or more than what I am bidding on. So, if I pay $15 for a decent head, $25 for shipping and duty, then $15 to $20 for a good haft, I'm up to $60 for the axe. I love refurbishing them, so I don't worry about the cost of my time, but how many guys are going to pay $60 for a good quality refurbish if it isn't a genuine Norland or something similar. Anyhow, thanks for the wisdom. This is a great site.
 
What really pisses me off is that eBay quotes the "actual shipping charge" at a certain price, then I find out later I'm only eligible for that shipping price if I print my own label. Well, I don't have a printer right now, so I sell a hatchet for $35 that I paid $5 for the head plus some lumber, sweat equity. The buyer pays me $41 because eBay says the shipping is $6, and when I go to ship the hatchet I get charged $10.50. Then, eBay charges me a $3.50 selling fee, crazy!

Don't forget the Paypal %3.

I use the eBay shipping when I list an item, and I do print my own label. You get a good discount usually, and it makes things much faster at the Post Office. I would just pad the shipping cost a little in your case.
 
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