Send it to Richard J!

I have trusted him with several expensive knives, he gets it done fast and right! Super nice guy too:)
 
sintro said:
The main thing I just wonder with powered sharpening (belt sander or paper wheels) is how long the edges last compared to hand sharpening on a stone. And also, what kind of bite do you get from richardj's edges?
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What would be the difference in an edge ground to 30* inclusive on a set of paper wheels, or an edge ground to 30* on a stone?

If I bought a beer with 12 quarters, or one with 3 $1 bills, which one would last the longest, or taste better? Don't see the difference my self, or understand the question.

I think if you were to check, most MFG use a belt sander to sharpen their blades from the factory. If not a belt sander, then some type of powered grinding device. I don't think any of them are sharpened by hand on a stone. I stand corrected if I am wrong.

Blessings,

Omar
 
OHALLUM said:
What would be the difference in an edge ground to 30* inclusive on a set of paper wheels, or an edge ground to 30* on a stone?

If I bought a beer with 12 quarters, or one with 3 $1 bills, which one would last the longest, or taste better? Don't see the difference my self, or understand the question.

I think if you were to check, most MFG use a belt sander to sharpen their blades from the factory. If not a belt sander, then some type of powered grinding device. I don't think any of them are sharpened by hand on a stone. I stand corrected if I am wrong.

Blessings,

Omar
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I've always imagined that on the very edge of the edge(lol), there would be very excessive heating. Not just a few hundred degrees, but maybe 1100 or 1200 degrees F (I know for tempering you need a few hundreds degrees for an hour or two, I was just thinking that if you keep the edge at over a thousand degrees for a few minutes it would temper). I'm gonna have to do tests sometime next summer about this. Maybe cut cardboard with a 30* inclusive convex edge using first stones, then powered sharpening.

I have noticed people complaining occasionally of a poorly ground edge on a knife/axe from factory and having to grind away a new edge because the factory edge is done so fast sometimes mistakes are made and blades are heated up too much. But if people are serious about blades, that shouldn't be problem. It'd be like loving cars, but not doing a single oil change by yourself ever.
 
If the paper wheels are waxed properly, and light pressure is used, then there is little heat build up. I check my blades often, and can hardly feel any heat build up even on the tips of my small folders. There are also no visible sparks coming from the grinding either. I suppose you could overheat a blade if enough pressure were used and you did not continually move the blade across the wheel.
I once ground an old machete on my wheels and used far too much pressure, resulting not in too much heat build up, but the wearing off of the grit on the gritted wheel to quickly. It is after all only glued on with some Elmer's type of glue. There were some sparking, as I was re-profiling the blade from tip to hilt. By the way, it would shave hair when I was finished. It was just an experiment, and lots of lessons learned by the way. I no longer do any radical re-profiling on the gritted wheel. I now use my Work Sharp and then finish up on the gritted wheel.

Blessings,

Omar
 
The wax if applied properly will not sling off the wheel. If you rub the initial wax in by hand before starting the wheel, and then apply small amounts when needed later by holding the wax lightly against the spinning wheel, it will adhere and not sling off. Never had a problem with the wax. Only complaints I have ever heard were from people who applied too much wax and thought the wheel was not grinding enough. If you apply too much, it will eventually wear in, or you can take a small toothbrush shaped wire brush and remove some of it.

As you sharpen, the wax will build up on the blade edge, and you need to wipe it clean before using the slotted strop wheel. I just use a paper towel to clean the blade before stropping on the slotted wheel. Therefore there is no wax build up on the polishing compound.

Blessings,

Omar
 
Thanks for answering my questions Omar! You really displayed unbiased facts about the paper wheel. It actually seems alot better system that I previously thought, maybe sometime I'll get a set and look around for a friends grinder.
 
The grinder I use is a Harbour Freight buffer, and I paid about $39 for it if I remember correctly. Of course if you can get one for free, all the better. You will want a 6 inch buffer for the 8 inch wheels and without any side guards. A buffer that runs 1750 rpm is best, but the wheels are rated for 3600 rpm. Mine runs at 3550, and I have had no problems with it.
Richard J. is the wheel guru, and will gladly answer any questions you have about them. I am more than happy to help any way I can.

Blessings,

Omar
 
Had Richard J sharpen one of my customs. Outstanding job to say the least. The edge came out nicely polished and razor sharp.
 
wvdavidr said:
I just read a long thread on knifeforums on this. The posters had not used the Razor Sharp Edgemaking System, or had given up after a quick try. Others were sure it wouldn't work because it produces a 'fireworks show of sparks' or something like that. Some complained that it requires a dedicated bench grinder (still cheaper than most other systems). One said that he uses a bench grinder every day at work and would never use one on a knife. Others attacked Richard personally. The conclusion of the thread was that the paper wheels should be thrown in the trash... not fit for use.Good sharpening,Dave
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I spent a small amount of time there and was trashed a bit over paper wheels - "We don't like paper wheels at this forum." or words to that effect. To be fair, I've been trashed here (by Knifenut1013) for having the temerity to suggest that ceramic pull through sharpeners work well in the field. So, ignorance and prejudice live everywhere.
 
I've stood next to Richard while he sharpened some of my knives and a few others. He is a fantastic teacher and he knows how to get blades sharp.
As to the wheels getting too hot? He handed me my knives immediately after finishing them and I tested the edge with my fingers. I don't think that heat is going to damage anything.
He's the real deal. His edges are not the highly polished edges that some people seem to like although he can do them. What he did for me was give me fantastic working edges that were incredible sharp and lasted a long time.
 
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