Serrated or Smooth?

Snacktime said:
I would think that serration in the middle of the blade would be pretty useful. You would retain most of the blade used in various tasks but would have an add sawing area right in the sweet spot.
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Serrations don't saw, per say, though they can be used in a sawing motion. When they cut like that, it's still technically slicing, which is parting material in a plane parallel to the blade. Saws actually cut by removing material perpendicularly to the blade orientation (or on an angle approaching it).
 
David Mary said:
Serrations don't saw, per say, though they can be used in a sawing motion. When they cut like that, it's still technically slicing, which is parting material in a plane parallel to the blade. Saws actually cut by removing material perpendicularly to the blade orientation (or on an angle approaching it).
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noun
a hand tool for cutting wood or other materials, typically with a long, thin serrated steel blade and operated using a backward and forward movement.

verb
1.
cut (something) using a saw.
"the top of each post is sawed off at railing height"
2.
make rapid to-and-fro motions in cutting something or in playing a stringed instrument.
"he was sawing away energetically at the loaf"

Depends on how you read the word?
 
There was a discussion on the Spyderco home forum a few years back about how a partially serrated blade should be serrated. Some such as myself said it should out towards the tip instead of back towards the handle. Victorinox has some blades serrated in that manner. Serrations only in the middle portion seems a worthwhile experiment.
 
David Mary said:
Serrations don't saw, per say, though they can be used in a sawing motion. When they cut like that, it's still technically slicing, which is parting material in a plane parallel to the blade. Saws actually cut by removing material perpendicularly to the blade orientation (or on an angle approaching it).
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Right on. Saws have teeth (usually set to some degree) and gullets, and they cut a kerf. Serrations do none of that.

The properties that make for a good slicing edge (thin behind the edge, hardened to the high 50s or above) are problematic in a saw blade.

Parker
 
SharpBits said:
There was a discussion on the Spyderco home forum a few years back about how a partially serrated blade should be serrated. Some such as myself said it should out towards the tip instead of back towards the handle. Victorinox has some blades serrated in that manner. Serrations only in the middle portion seems a worthwhile experiment.
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I have a Gerber Mk1 with serrations on the spine at the tip.
It made the tip delicate, and it snapped off. Graciously replaced by Gerber.
Maybe if the serrations were on cutting edge at the tip?
 
I think serrations are good. Sharpening serrations is not as easy as sharpening a straight edge.
 
Sorry for the delay in replying. I don't seem to get email notifications anymore and work has been... Challenging so I haven't been logging in lately.

As far as David Mary David Mary serrations are concerned on the Prevex they are fantastic for general use. I haven't had time to read through the entire thread so forgive me if I miss something.

As far general cutting around the house it does very well with the wide serrations and they are easy to maintain. Now I haven't abused it so sorry for the lack of durability testing. However food, cardboard, rope, plastic, sharpening pencils, marshmallow sticks, splitting kindling... And whatever else it hasn't been a problem with the wide serrations.

I've only lightly put the knife across the fine sharpmaker stones so I can't say anything about the longevity of the serrations but they are not an issue to sharpen.
 
Don't have much for action pics but here is is with the 2 folders I seem to carry lately. Prevex wears perfectly at 11:30 lefthand draw. The angle of the handle makes it hang very comfortably.
iA2C2g8.jpeg
 
It's pretty simple, usually. Non-serrated edges certainly cut a little smoother and cleaner in most cases while they are sharp, but if you want maximum cutting power serrations do it better. If anyone tells you different, challenge them to a cutting contest with burlap, cardboard and cordage and then take their money. You will win, not even a close contest.

Non-serrated edges cut great while they're sharp, but the minute they start to dull, cutting performance suffers greatly. Serrations will continue to rip/tear/cut long after they begin to dull. It's not up for debate. I've never lost a cutting challenge with a serrated/partially serrated blade against a non-serrated.

You will typically hear anti-serration talk from folks that either can't sharpen them effectively or have chosen the aesthetics of a non-serrated blade over a serrated blade. It's similar to how many folks want a blade that satisfies the "fantasy" of being a "combat knife" when they plan to use it for a 2.4 mile loop hike twice a year. It's all good, homey.

That being said, get whatever makes you happy and you enjoy looking at and using. That's the beauty of our current massive selection on the marketplace.

Sam⚔⚔
 
GmpaJim said:
I have a Gerber Mk1 with serrations on the spine at the tip.
It made the tip delicate, and it snapped off. Graciously replaced by Gerber.
Maybe if the serrations were on cutting edge at the tip?
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Sounds like a Gerber Command I rather than Mark I.
 
I vote for a plain edge. If you want more aggressive slicing, sharpen the edge at about 15 degrees per side (dps) & us the coarsest stone you can find. I’d recommend either a coarse Norton India or an Xtra Coarse Black or Coarse Blue DMT stone.
 
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