I am about to get a new fixed blade and really like the gerber LMF II. I was wondering if serrations on a camp blade would hinder it in any way? The knife is going to be used for general camp chores like food prep and cutting hiking sticks. I wont be doing any carving with it though. I hate combo edges on folders but since a fixed blade is longer you have a better length. Also the serrations on the LMF aren't too aggresive.
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Serrations on a F.B?
- Thread starter 3wolves
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sure, why not? Serrations can be pretty handy for all kinds of things.
I've handled that LMF and I think it would make an excellent go to fixed blade for anyone doing outdoorsy things. Just the right size. Maybe not an 'only' knife if possible.
Great sheath too, Sandvik steel and a nice pommel made just for hammering.
It's made so it can be lashed to a pole so it can be used as a spear!
Very well thought out and designed, affordable, dependable knife, from a generally underwhelming knife company.
Handling the LMF gave me a little more faith in what Gerber is doing.
I've handled that LMF and I think it would make an excellent go to fixed blade for anyone doing outdoorsy things. Just the right size. Maybe not an 'only' knife if possible.
Great sheath too, Sandvik steel and a nice pommel made just for hammering.
It's made so it can be lashed to a pole so it can be used as a spear!
Very well thought out and designed, affordable, dependable knife, from a generally underwhelming knife company.
Handling the LMF gave me a little more faith in what Gerber is doing.
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- Dec 5, 2005
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Like this?
Or more like this:
i think they are prety DANG useful.
Or more like this:
i think they are prety DANG useful.
mtnfolk mike
Gold Member
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i am not a big fan of serrations... if i were to have one on a FB, it would only be on the lower portion....
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Got no use for serrations on a field knife. They're great for cutting webbing and thick line, chores the tactical fixed blade might encounter, but the bush knife probably won't.
Serrations are difficult to field sharpen. They are usually located smack dab in the middle of the most controllable part of the edge, but serrations mess with precision cutting. Furthermore, they can make otherwise clean cuts ragged.
Nope, don't like them.
Serrations are difficult to field sharpen. They are usually located smack dab in the middle of the most controllable part of the edge, but serrations mess with precision cutting. Furthermore, they can make otherwise clean cuts ragged.
Nope, don't like them.
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They wouldn't be my choice for a bunch of reasons, including: My 'food prep' requiring butchery / kitchen knife capabilities for cuttin' up critters, slicing onions, potatoes etc., and serrations are a pain for that. They make woodworking a good deal harder. Even simple things like baton or putting a point on a stick are harder because serrations don't lend themselves well as a chisel.
That said, not all food prep and what counts as 'general camp chores' are equal. When in the kayak non of the above is interesting to me. Food prep is more 'packet' than 'chef', and I'm more likely to want to whack through a bit of rope for a guy line than become a makeshift carpenter.
As you've clearly stipulated I wont be doing any carving with it though it could well be you are closer to case two, in which see no problem. The only reservations I would have is that the bend and cut technique for taking saplings will be harder because you have lost power up by you hand where you should have the most leverage.
That said, not all food prep and what counts as 'general camp chores' are equal. When in the kayak non of the above is interesting to me. Food prep is more 'packet' than 'chef', and I'm more likely to want to whack through a bit of rope for a guy line than become a makeshift carpenter.
As you've clearly stipulated I wont be doing any carving with it though it could well be you are closer to case two, in which see no problem. The only reservations I would have is that the bend and cut technique for taking saplings will be harder because you have lost power up by you hand where you should have the most leverage.
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I personally hate serations. They have there uses but a non serrated knife can do everything a serrated knife does just not as fast. Like Boats said the serrations are located right in the sweet spot of a knife, right at the hilt. I think for a field knife serrations would not be benificial. You can shrpen serrations but IMO its a PITA.
+1 for no serrations
+1 for no serrations
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I prefer a plain blade, unless I am working with fibrous material. If you cut rope for a living, it's the way to go. If you sail or fish with nets, it could be a life saver. IMHO, they are a pain to sharpen in the field and don't offer much for working with wood, cleaning game, etc.
If you get a bargain on one, I guess you could suffer through it
If you get a bargain on one, I guess you could suffer through it
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"Even if I cut rope for a living, and was a member of the rope and webbing cutters of America union I would still use a standard blade."
That's the one.
That would be my personal position too. I have a serrated Spyderco Police model. It packs an amazing amount of serrations into a compact tool that is also pokey. In fact, it is a truly vicious tool for slashing and defensive prodding. I don't consider it a usin' knife 'cos I hope I never have to. For all other practical applications a plain edge is to be preferred.
That's the one.
That would be my personal position too. I have a serrated Spyderco Police model. It packs an amazing amount of serrations into a compact tool that is also pokey. In fact, it is a truly vicious tool for slashing and defensive prodding. I don't consider it a usin' knife 'cos I hope I never have to. For all other practical applications a plain edge is to be preferred.
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I think serrations are a waste of time on any non-boating knife. JMHO. Additionally they are positioned on the part of the edge that allows the most leverage for notching type of cuts.
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I totally agree with this statement:thumbup:
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I like how the one hand trekker has the serrations at the top. Even better is having a smaller serrated blade, like on the one hand fireman or the lil' one on the hunter model.
They cut good but I still don't use them too often. On a fixed blade, never.
Espically for walking sticks, you dont want scrape marks on your stick.
The best use for them other then rope is to rough up some birch bark or other tinder for a fire.
They cut good but I still don't use them too often. On a fixed blade, never.
Espically for walking sticks, you dont want scrape marks on your stick.
The best use for them other then rope is to rough up some birch bark or other tinder for a fire.
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Couldn't agree more with this. Serrations are almost a total waste IMO, unless I was to use a serrated knife on a boat.
batosai117
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Serrations have always been a pain in the a$$ for me. They just make my cuts look fugly and it is a bit harder to put a point on something that I'm carving. I love my spyderco endura, but I can't wait to get one in plain edge as soon as possible. The serrations don't do me any good, and the most recent net cutting I did was with my straight edge benchmade griptilian. It did the job perfectly fine, I was cutting off the netting from a trampoline (the safety net that keeps the kids in) cause it was old and falling off. I don't see any real reason to want serrations, but if it has to come with the LMF then that's something you just can't control. It won't be too bad as long as the serrations don't take up too much of the blade. *steps off of soap box* I'm done, J.
Correct me if Im wrong, but Ive been thinking of benifits of serrations.
The main things I use my knives for while camping (I wont use this one for hunting) are,
cutting dead or live saplings for fire or shelter building,
Oppening bags of food,
cutting guy ropes, jute and straps (fixing companions backpack),
battoning,
cutting walking sticks.
For cutting saplings, I either chop and break them, batton halfway through them and bend it to break it. Usually, those tough fibers of woood that wont break have to be cut with a knife. I dont know for sure but serrations would probably rip through them better than a P.E and I can still chop because the part I use for chopping (end) is P.E. I probably wont even try chopping with such a small blade.
It is easier to open plastic bags etc. with serrations, It will leave a jagged cut but since Im throwing the bag out I dont really care.
Its common knowledge that serrations are better for rope, strapping etc.
As for batoning, I saw a youtube video of a guy battoning with the LMF and it split 4x4's better than almost every other knife he tested.
walking sticks same as saplings so.......
For fine work I still have a P.E folder and sharpening isnt an issue for me because I always carry a tapering diamond rod for my edcs.
So, am I okay, or is their a major flaw in my thinking?
The main things I use my knives for while camping (I wont use this one for hunting) are,
cutting dead or live saplings for fire or shelter building,
Oppening bags of food,
cutting guy ropes, jute and straps (fixing companions backpack),
battoning,
cutting walking sticks.
For cutting saplings, I either chop and break them, batton halfway through them and bend it to break it. Usually, those tough fibers of woood that wont break have to be cut with a knife. I dont know for sure but serrations would probably rip through them better than a P.E and I can still chop because the part I use for chopping (end) is P.E. I probably wont even try chopping with such a small blade.
It is easier to open plastic bags etc. with serrations, It will leave a jagged cut but since Im throwing the bag out I dont really care.
Its common knowledge that serrations are better for rope, strapping etc.
As for batoning, I saw a youtube video of a guy battoning with the LMF and it split 4x4's better than almost every other knife he tested.
walking sticks same as saplings so.......
For fine work I still have a P.E folder and sharpening isnt an issue for me because I always carry a tapering diamond rod for my edcs.
So, am I okay, or is their a major flaw in my thinking?
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I think you're on the right track there buddy.
Simple fact is, the LMF is a pretty sweet knife/sheath and it only comes serrated. If you like the knife I think you should get it. I like it too.
The serrations good/bad argument is kind of irrelevant in your situation, cause like you said you have other knives with you that can do the stuff the serrations could interfere with.
If you are the kind of guy who carries multiple knives then it figures that one of them has a serrated edge somewhere on it. On a burly knife like the LMF it makes sense, and after handling that knife again today, I can tell you that the serrations are executed very well. Not a bad edge either.
Simple fact is, the LMF is a pretty sweet knife/sheath and it only comes serrated. If you like the knife I think you should get it. I like it too.
The serrations good/bad argument is kind of irrelevant in your situation, cause like you said you have other knives with you that can do the stuff the serrations could interfere with.
If you are the kind of guy who carries multiple knives then it figures that one of them has a serrated edge somewhere on it. On a burly knife like the LMF it makes sense, and after handling that knife again today, I can tell you that the serrations are executed very well. Not a bad edge either.
Oh you have one? I heard that the handle doesnt hold up well. Do you know what its made of? Is it more like kraton or is it that foam kind of rubber?