setting the edge

jdm61

jdm61

itinerant metal pounder
Joined
Aug 12, 2005
Messages
47,357
What is a good way to set the edge on a knife other than using a slack belt or rotary platen? This part of the knifemaking process is still the bane of my existence, especially when I get out to the tip of the knife!!!!:grumpy: I can convex a "straight" edge a bit with paper during hand sanding if need be, so that is not an issue, I just want my knives to be the length i originally made them and not 1/8 shorter because I have to "repair" the tip by hand.
 
I just want my knives to be the length i originally made them and not 1/8 shorter because I have to "repair" the tip by hand.
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Hahaha! I feel you, brother! I've had my share of whoopsies while getting that tip just right. Hate having to rework the tip. I know some guys on here use an edge pro and really like the results. I'm still stuck using a slack belt with edge down. I tip the grinder arm (grizzly) back so that the slack belt is running near the angle I want my edge to be, and I pull the knife edge down across the belt keeping the knife in vertical to maintain the angle. As for the tip, as I'm drawing the knive across the belt edge down, I try and never pull the knife tip past the middle of the belt, and I use light pressure and take my time. When I pull the tip past the middle of the belt, I find that's when the edge thins out too much.

Good luck to you. If all else fails, just head over to the bench grinder and use a course stone to set the edge!! Kidding, or course. :D

--nathan
 
As you bring the blade across the belt be sure to keep your angle and as the curve towards the tip hits the belt rotate the butt of the knife up to keep belt travel moving from spine to edge. I do my sharpening edge down. When the tip hits the belt I anly bring it about 1/2 way across the belt before I remove it from belt and restart. This is a hard job as it is difficult to see what is happening. When I am close to an edge I go to my gritted hard cardboard wheel on a bench grinder. I look down on the gap between blade body and wheel as edge travels across. I again never take tip over half way across. I am thinking of doing my primary edges with my 10" wheel and say 240 grit belt because I can see the angle so much better. Jim
 
I've always used a slack belt, edge up. I used to have some problems when I used a j-flex belt (because that's what I use for everything else) with the rounding off of the tip and the belt wanting to put a recurve in the grind. I now keep 1" (actually 2" that I've spit) X-weight belts in 220 just for setting the edge bevel, and have had no more problems.
 
There's a big difference between setting an edge and sharpening an edge on the grinder.

You did mean setting it right Joe?

I flat grind my forged blades down to 0.005- 0.010" at the edge (this is a combination of belt and 9" disc work).

Once that thin, I either gently rock the blade out on the disc, or use the rotary platen and take it down close to a cutting edge.

Then I go to my stones, sharpen, and test. If I'm happy, I dull it by pulling the edge against the stone a few passes, then go on to my hand-finishing.

Personally I don't like using a slack belt to set the edge or sharpen, as it tends to roll out at the choil and tip... which causes a funny little dip at the choil and usually a lost tip.

The sharpest knives I've ever made are the scandi grinds where I actually grind to a zero edge (and get the wire started) with a 220X belt, and then strop the burr off on cardboard. It's kind of like a laser but without the cool colors. ;)

Edited to add that since I realize like 70% of the makers out there use a belt to sharpen, don't get your panties all wadded up... I'm not saying it's wrong, it's just not what I prefer. When you take your edges down as thin as I do, it's way too easy to ruin the blade on a slack belt. :)
 
NickWheeler said:
There's a big difference between setting an edge and sharpening an edge on the grinder.

You did mean setting it right Joe?

I flat grind my forged blades down to 0.005- 0.010" at the edge (this is a combination of belt and 9" disc work).

Once that thin, I either gently rock the blade out on the disc, or use the rotary platen and take it down close to a cutting edge.

Then I go to my stones, sharpen, and test. If I'm happy, I dull it by pulling the edge against the stone a few passes, then go on to my hand-finishing.

Personally I don't like using a slack belt to set the edge or sharpen, as it tends to roll out at the choil and tip... which causes a funny little dip at the choil and usually a lost tip.

The sharpest knives I've ever made are the scandi grinds where I actually grind to a zero edge (and get the wire started) with a 220X belt, and then strop the burr off on cardboard. It's kind of like a laser but without the cool colors. ;)

Edited to add that since I realize like 70% of the makers out there use a belt to sharpen, don't get your panties all wadded up... I'm not saying it's wrong, it's just not what I prefer. When you take your edges down as thin as I do, it's way too easy to ruin the blade on a slack belt. :)
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I'm messing up the tip eben on the rotary platen sometimes. You re taking your edges down to cutting comp thin!!!!!!! :eek:
 
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