Setting up shop with a $1000(updated with dust collector I built and another light)

I'll add my 2cents in here as someone who works on a tight budget for knives.
1. Drill press overall quality is not a huge issue starting out, but obviously it has to at least drill straight and without a ton of wobble. Do NOT use it as a sander, you don't want to put sideways pressure on the bearings unless it's actually designed to be used as a milling machine as well. Low speed is all you need, 2 speed, 200 speed, all you care about is how slow it can go. I run my 12 speed harbor freight at the lowest speed it has 95% of the time and the rest of the time I could have but it was more efficient to speed it up.

2. The Craftsman 2x42 is a nice little grinder, but does need a better platen surface and it wouldn't hurt to rebuild the whole thing. Right now my main complaint with it is that any kind of plunge line guide just does not work with it. Very annoying. Otherwise it works pretty well and TruGrit has a decent belt selection.

3. Rough shaping blades and trimming handle material can be done with an angle grinder and suitable disks. I do a rough profile for the steel that way and then later I use it to trim off most of the excess G10 or Micarta. You have to be careful to not trim too close since it tends to slightly burn the surface and you need enough room to sand off the unhappy areas, it's purely to get you closer and save time and belts while minimizing the dust production. I'd love a good metal cutting bandsaw but it's a low priority for now. A 2x72 grinder well suited to knife making and a more capable forge with temp control are much higher priorities.

4. Don't just look at what grits are available for an odd grinder size, make sure the TYPE is appropriate. You get far better life out of the belts that are really designed for hard materials and it's far less frustrating. Being stuck with a lot of belts made for wood is just going to drive you nuts even if they're cheap and available in every grit you can imagine.
 
I'll add my 2cents in here as someone who works on a tight budget for knives.
1. Drill press overall quality is not a huge issue starting out, but obviously it has to at least drill straight and without a ton of wobble. Do NOT use it as a sander, you don't want to put sideways pressure on the bearings unless it's actually designed to be used as a milling machine as well. Low speed is all you need, 2 speed, 200 speed, all you care about is how slow it can go. I run my 12 speed harbor freight at the lowest speed it has 95% of the time and the rest of the time I could have but it was more efficient to speed it up.

2. The Craftsman 2x42 is a nice little grinder, but does need a better platen surface and it wouldn't hurt to rebuild the whole thing. Right now my main complaint with it is that any kind of plunge line guide just does not work with it. Very annoying. Otherwise it works pretty well and TruGrit has a decent belt selection.

3. Rough shaping blades and trimming handle material can be done with an angle grinder and suitable disks. I do a rough profile for the steel that way and then later I use it to trim off most of the excess G10 or Micarta. You have to be careful to not trim too close since it tends to slightly burn the surface and you need enough room to sand off the unhappy areas, it's purely to get you closer and save time and belts while minimizing the dust production. I'd love a good metal cutting bandsaw but it's a low priority for now. A 2x72 grinder well suited to knife making and a more capable forge with temp control are much higher priorities.

4. Don't just look at what grits are available for an odd grinder size, make sure the TYPE is appropriate. You get far better life out of the belts that are really designed for hard materials and it's far less frustrating. Being stuck with a lot of belts made for wood is just going to drive you nuts even if they're cheap and available in every grit you can imagine.


Great advice , I think the biggest issue will be the grinder, Sears doesn't have the 2 x 48 in Canada and doesn't ship it here and I can't afford or justify spending $1000 on a 2 x72 until I've really made some knives.
 
1/3 Hp. 4900 FPM belt speed, and 3450 grinder speed.

Low HP machine but I think to start off and practice on it should be sufficient. Depending on how work goes this summer and how well I do at knifemaking I will consider a grinder-in-a-box kit and budget ~$700 for it.
 
Have you considered the grizzly grinder? I have had mine for 12 years or so, and done alot of work with it. I originally inteded to upgrade to a 'better" grinder, but for what i paid- $275, it was very hard to beat. It takes some time to get to know, but play with itand you can get some good results. I also got a grizzly drill press at the same time. I rough grind my knives, then go to files to make sure everything is where i want it, then back to the grinder to finish out the file marks.
Don't get TOO hung up on tooling. I made do without many of the 'essential' tools for years. i WOULD get good smaller tools: scribe, steel rule, straightedges, ect.
A 4 1/2" hand grinder is a very handy tool, i use it to profile stock removal and forged blades, cut steel to shape for jigs, ect. And you can also rough grind bevels with it, finishing up with some draw filing.
 
1/3 Hp. 4900 FPM belt speed, and 3450 grinder speed.

Low HP machine but I think to start off and practice on it should be sufficient. Depending on how work goes this summer and how well I do at knifemaking I will consider a grinder-in-a-box kit and budget ~$700 for it.


I'm eager to see your results and review of this grinder , it's probably going to be the one I get to start. What size of belts does it take 2 x 32 ? It's weird they wouldn't make it to take a standard sized belt. Did you see the quality of the belts with it? not that i know anything about them. Thanks.

On another note I got my first attempt at stock removal knife back from heat treat today, 154CM and 58 RC and it didn't warp so that's a good sign . It's a 8"ish drop point hunter influenced design .Going out to Brandon ,Manitoba for a few days then I'll finish it up with some nice thuya burl , red or black spacer, some brass/ nickel silver loveless bolts and a mosaic pin in the middle . I can't wait to see how it turns out .
 
Last edited:
1 3/4" x 31 7/8" to be precise... VERY odd size. But as I said they do stock a selection... in 32 inch... i asked the guy at KMS to test to make sure they fit the floor model, sure enough it's all good (figured the 1/8th difference wouldnt be a problem). The belts seem to be a good quality.. I have a stack of 40, 80, 120 and 400 ready to go. We will see how they perform. I'm mostly curious at to how the 40 will hold up for profiling. All the belts are Saitex brand... made in italy. Not sure if that means anything special. Either way, can't wait to let you know!
 
Have you considered the grizzly grinder? I have had mine for 12 years or so, and done alot of work with it. I originally inteded to upgrade to a 'better" grinder, but for what i paid- $275, it was very hard to beat. It takes some time to get to know, but play with itand you can get some good results. I also got a grizzly drill press at the same time. I rough grind my knives, then go to files to make sure everything is where i want it, then back to the grinder to finish out the file marks.
Don't get TOO hung up on tooling. I made do without many of the 'essential' tools for years. i WOULD get good smaller tools: scribe, steel rule, straightedges, ect.
A 4 1/2" hand grinder is a very handy tool, i use it to profile stock removal and forged blades, cut steel to shape for jigs, ect. And you can also rough grind bevels with it, finishing up with some draw filing.


I looked at the kalamazoo and got a quote for this from the Canadian Dealer in BC :

MODEL 2FSM
MODEL
2FS72
MODEL 2FSM 1/2 HP
motor, 1 PH, 3450 RPM.
2" x 48" belt, 5" contact
wheel, tilt table and
removable platen. Full
hinged guard for quick
belt change. Vertical or
horizontal position. 4500
SFPM. Wt. 50 lbs.
Price FOB factory $399.00 +tax
http://www.eccomachinery.com/new-belt-grinders-kalamazoo.html

or the General International Grinder: $189

Product Description
• Double sealed ball-bearing construction.
• Adjustable aluminum tool-rest.
• Flexible “gooseneck” style work light.
• Quick change belt tension lever facilitates fast belt changes.
• Belt sander operates horizontally and vertically and can be locked at any angle in between.
• Perfect for knife honing and sharpening or general shop use.
• 3450 RPM grinder speed to handle just about any metal grinding application and 4900 FPM belt speed for sanding both hard and soft woods.
• 1- 60 grit sanding belt & grinding wheel included.
Product Specifications
Belt size 1 3/4” x 31 7/8” (44 x 810 mm)
Wheel size 6” x 3/4” x 1/2” (152 x 19 x 13 mm)
Arbor size 1/2" (13 mm)
Belt speed 4900 FPM (1500 MPM)
Grinder speed 3450 RPM
Motor 1/3 HP, 120 V, 3.7 A
Weight 33 LBS (15 kg)
http://www.kmstools.com/general-bench-top-sander-and-grinder-2182


This might be a stupid question but could you put a 1 x 30 or 1 x 36 on this , by adjusting the tension or customizing it with something to make it 36" ? In my mind I can see a small 3rd wheel being attached as a roller to make it 36" which has more and brand name belt s. I've never used a belt grinder before so I apologize in advance.
 
Last edited:
Belt sanders/grinders can usually be modified to run different length belts, how easy or difficult it is to do so depends on the machine and how it's put together. With a 2-wheel design, the easiest way is usually to just extend the frame that holds the upper wheel, but with the machine you are looking at, it dosen't look like that will be terribly easy. Another option is to add a 3rd wheel, but the placement of it and getting it aligned correctly are going to be critical.
You can guess from looking at pictures, but with modifications like this, you usually don't know until you have the machine in front of you, just how complicated it will be.
 
Belt sanders/grinders can usually be modified to run different length belts, how easy or difficult it is to do so depends on the machine and how it's put together. With a 2-wheel design, the easiest way is usually to just extend the frame that holds the upper wheel, but with the machine you are looking at, it dosen't look like that will be terribly easy. Another option is to add a 3rd wheel, but the placement of it and getting it aligned correctly are going to be critical.
You can guess from looking at pictures, but with modifications like this, you usually don't know until you have the machine in front of you, just how complicated it will be.


I'd be looking at getting a local machine shop to do the mod , then again I might not be worth the cost . I just got a quote on this for $700 from Ecco in Surrey, BC:
Kalamazoo 2FS72 2" belt grinder

Specifications:


Multi-position
Similar to the 2FS only 2" x 72" belt and 8" serrated contact wheel.
Tilt Work table - 5" contact wheel
Removable platen and pulley V-belt
1/2HP, 1PH, 110V

For $700 I'm moving into a range where a couple hundred more and I can get something much better, I think I want to keep it under $500, more like $400 max. I still have over a month before the move so lot's of time to decide.
 
Last edited:
Ok , I think I want to go with the craftsman belt grinder to start. Klammer I sent you an email but I don't know if you got it . Anyone wanna help me get one up to Canada? Edmonton to be exact?
 
I haven't had time to get a review up on my KMS grinder/sander yet... but if you decide for some reason to not get the craftsman I can recommend this one. Fast belt changes, extremely smooth tracking, plenty of belt speed. Only downside I could see while profiling was that the 1/3hp motor will struggle if you really lay into the belt, but that is to be expected. That is why you need a 1.5-2hp motor if you want to do aggressive profiling. I'll still be building a GIB later this summer, but this particular sander is great for the money I think and is miles beyond using my 4x36. It will definitely stay in use for handle profiling and sharpening in the future :thumbup:
 
See my other thread you can order the craftsman 2x42 to Canada , I just did ! Now to order some belts. I don't even have a place to use the grinder yet but at least I'll have one ready when the time comes.
 
I move into my new place which has a yard and basement ( the shop) in 2 weeks . This is what I have so far.

Craftsman 2x42 : $200 including the shipping to get it here
Belts from trugrit, I got the expensive ones ( gators, Blaze etc ) and some AO in a variety of grits: $140
Makita porta-band used off of kijiji , 4 yrs old and runs good but not pretty : $80
Bubble Jig set: $75

I already have a 4" vice and a wide variety of files and hand tools also a master craft rotary tool with 500 accessories and a decent cordless drill . I still need :
- drill press ( $200 budget for this or more? still gotta get the other stuff)
-shop vac
-a box fan or 2 with some furnace filters for dust control
-long tube fluorescent lights and table lights
- wood, screws , etc for work table and stands
-possibly a bench grinder/ polisher / paper wheel

I plan to build my own work table and hopefully the hardware store will cut the wood for me , also I'd like to make 2 stands and rig the porta-band stationary upright. Any thoughts on this list and building tables and stands, I can probably find free plans on the net. Anything important I'm forgetting ? Still got around $500 to work with.
 
Last edited:
Well I bought a Drill Press today , went way over budget with a floor 14" General . Bought a shop vac too and them spent the rest of the day building a work table . Limited carpentry skills and working off a picture with shitty home depot wood took a lot longer then expected, I keep splitting wood when screwing into the wood. Only thing I need now is a box fan , some lights and to set everything up. I'll post some picks tomorrow.
 
Sorry about the wood splitting. Pre-drilling pilot holes would eliminate it next time. Hopefully nothing is screwed up too bad!

Can't wait to see your setup. I'm betting you went into kmstools and bought that drill press... I steer away from that store as much as possible now. Wayyyyyyy to many tempting things in there begging to be taken home
 
Well I built another table and got the drill press assembled and running . I'd like some input on the layout I plan to have the belt grinder where its sitting in the box and the second table will have a vice mounted , portaband mounted on the far corner and peg board backing for tools . Any advice would be greatly appreciated . I have a box fan with furnace filters and a shop vac for dust control. The only outlet is in the corner and I got a 6ft contractors power bar. I still plan to add some lights . BTW I'm over 1k because of the $350 drill press but oh well, so close to being done and starting to grind. Should I change things around, where would you place your equipment ?








 
I generally like to have all my "dirty" equipment (equipment like a grinder that makes lots of dust or shavings) in one section and the cleaner stuff in another. Clean stuff might be vise and buffing wheels etc. I found out the hard way that the last thing you want to deal with is metal shavings on buffing wheels from being close to the grinder etc...

That being said Id put the drill press in the same spot on the opposite side of the room. Keep the grinder there. Put your porta band in the left corner on the grinder table. Then put vise and other things like a buffing wheel etc etc on the right most table. If you can keep a small area in the middle of the right most table to kind of have a desk area to lay things out and do work or trace patterns etc etc. You could also turn the right table sideways and go where you have your drill press at now to move it even further away from the bust and have a whole wall to hang pegboard on to put blade blanks and more tools on. Might also want to look into a file/sandpaper cart to keep things organized and clean.

IMG_0374.jpg


IMG_0375.jpg


IMG_0373.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top